Lada Granta hatchback logbook unsuccessful replacement of CV joint boot

CV joint (constant velocity joint) is a mechanism that allows you to transmit torque between misaligned shafts. The device is actively used on front-wheel drive vehicles. On each shaft coming out of the gearbox there are two of them - internal and external. Repair is impossible; if the unit breaks down, it is replaced as an assembly.

Step-by-step algorithm for replacing a CV joint

The process should be started if there is complete confidence in the failure of the specified unit. Replacing the outer CV joint step by step if you do it yourself.

1. We loosen the tightening of the wheel fasteners and the hub nut (first remove the cotter pin) on one of the sides of the car.
2. We hang up this side with a jack and install stops under the wheels of the stern, and a safety support under the body.
3. We completely remove the wheel.
4. Unscrew the two bolts holding the ball joint to the steering knuckle bracket and the hub nut.
5. We turn the steering wheel of the Lada Kalina as far as possible to the side, move the axle and remove the axle shaft from the splined engagement of the hinge and the hub. If there are difficulties with the free exit of the axle shaft, then use a hammer, applying impact forces to the shaft through a drift.
6. When the axle shaft is released, we begin to dismantle the outer joint boot in combination with the clamps. These items must be replaced.
7. Now we move on to removing the CV joint. To do this you will need a special puller. If it is missing, then use the hammer again. It is forbidden to apply an impact load to the separator, so we apply gentle blows to the body in an outward direction. The joint will come off if the retaining ring compresses, allowing the cage to slide off the axle shaft.
8. When it is necessary to dismantle the entire axle shaft, the algorithm of actions up to point No. 7 is similar, and then, using a mount, we remove the shaft of the designated CV joint from engagement with the side gear in the transmission differential. Before such manipulation, drain the oil from the box. We take out the axle shaft as an assembly, after which we perform the necessary disassembly steps, etc.
9. Removing the internal hinge involves the identical procedure given in point No. 7. To make disassembly easier, we use a vice in which we place and fix the structure.

Replacing CV joints (constant velocity joints) on a Lada Granta VAZ 2190

Tools:

• Pliers
• Large flat screwdriver
• Small hammer
• Soft metal drift
• Vice with soft metal jaws
• Jack

Parts and consumables:

• CV joint grease-4
• Wood spacer
• Constant velocity joints
• Front wheel drive shaft valve
• Rags
• Gloves

Notes:

Replacing a CV joint or repairing it is a fairly common occurrence, the harbingers of which are knocking, crunching and crackling noises when turning the car’s wheels.

Work order:

1. Remove the front wheel drive from the vehicle as described here or here.

2. Clamp the drive shaft in a vice with soft metal jaws.

3. Squeeze the bent antennae of the inner collar of the inner CV joint boot with pliers.

4. Squeeze the clamp lock of the inner CV joint boot with pliers.

5. Remove the clamp.

6. Similarly, remove the outer clamp of the CV joint boot.

7. Slide the dirt boot over the shaft and turn it inside out.

8. Using a drift, knock the inner CV joint off the front wheel drive shaft, applying force to the CV joint cage.

9

Please note: there is a plastic buffer installed at the inner end of the front wheel drive shaft

10. Check for grease in the new CV joint. The CV joint should contain 80 cm3. SHRUS-4 lubricants.

11. When installing the CV joint, place it on the front wheel drive shaft with gentle hammer blows through a wooden spacer along the outer end of the shank along its axis until the hinge is fixed on the shaft. When installing the CV joint, make sure that no dirt gets into it.

12. Install the boot on the CV joint housing.

13. Install the outer and inner CV joint boot mounting clamps in the reverse order of removal.

14. If it is necessary to replace the boots, remove the CV joint from the front wheel drive shaft and remove the air release valve assembled with the casing from the boot, sliding the valve along the shaft. Remove the boot from the front wheel drive shaft.

15. To replace the valve, unscrew its casing and, having removed the valve from the casing, remove the valve from the front wheel drive shaft.

16. Then remove the valve cover from the front wheel drive shaft.

17. Install the valve and new CV joint boot in the reverse order of removal.

18. Having installed the CV joint, secure the boot with clamps.

19. To replace the outer CV joint, remove its outer and inner boot clamps in the same way as you did for the inner CV joint.

20. Slide the boot along the front wheel drive shaft and turn it inside out.

21. Using a drift, knock out the outer CV joint from the front wheel drive shaft, applying force to the CV joint cage.

22. Install an external CV joint on a Lada Granta VAZ 2190 car in the same way as installing an internal CV joint. The difference is that the outer CV joint needs to be filled with half as much (40 cm3) CV joint-4 lubricant as the inner CV joint.

The article is missing:

• High-quality photos of repairs
• Photo of the instrument
• Photos of parts and consumables

In what cases is it necessary to replace the inner CV joint?

Replacing the internal CV joint on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles is required if the following symptoms are present:

• Crunching and knocking noises when driving and accelerating in a straight line;
• Vibration and shock when changing gears;
• Significant play when testing by hand;
• If the “grenade” fails completely, the vehicle cannot move further. The main reason for the malfunction of the VAZ grenade is the entry of water and dirt through the hole in the torn boot. The second possible cause of failure is a sharp press on the gas with the wheels fully turned, although in this case you risk killing the external rather than the internal grenade.

In addition to the above, replacing the internal CV joint on VAZ-2110 and other models may be necessary if the quality of the previously installed joint is poor.

Recommendations

Comments 17

Oh, I don’t understand about CV joints. But! When turning, it crunches, creaks, and it’s unclear why (

Specifically CV joint. “Conveyor belt” doesn’t always mean “just right”

Especially for the conveyors of AVTOVAZ OJSC and the GM-AVTOVAZ JV, specialists from NPO BelMag developed, designed and patented ball joints of a new design for all front-wheel drive vehicles (RF patent No. 2440517) and VAZ 2123 Chevrolet Niva (RF patent No. 2296249).

Currently, these supports are being supplied to both conveyors. It is precisely these ball joints of a progressive design that are produced for the secondary market under the name “Conveyor”.

The design features of these ball joints have significantly improved the performance parameters of the hinges. By changing a number of geometric dimensions of the housing, the required “minimum” pullout force of the ball pin was increased by almost 20%.

A specially developed new design of a one-piece liner made of modern homopolymer material provides a significant increase in the efficiency of lubrication of rubbing surfaces during operation. As a result, the durability parameters of the unit have been significantly improved.

All the innovations, including the new, most advanced liner material, a sealed wafer-free casing with lubricant embedded under it, and a damper ring that prevents the casing from biting during joint operation, allowed the specialists of NPO BelMag to guarantee safe operation throughout the entire service life.

Assembly procedure step by step

We carry out the entire list of assembly operations in a Lada Kalina car in strictly reverse order. During the procedure, it is necessary to take into account some nuances.

1. First, we put the boot on the axle shaft. If this is difficult, then its surface can be lubricated with the grease supplied with the new hinge kit.
2. Now we fill the same grease into the CV joint bearing, and the remainder into the internal cavity of the boot.
3. We install the hinge on the axle shaft. We also use a hammer, applying a shock load to the body. The retaining ring should be replaced.
4. When the “grenade” “sits” in its place, we push the boot, after squeezing it with our hands to remove excess air. We install clamps.
5. We do the same when replacing the internal hinge.
6. Now we install the axle shaft into the transmission housing until the shaft engages with the side gear. Don’t forget to fill the unit with oil afterwards.
7. We insert the outer joint into the steering knuckle until it fully engages with the splined race of the hub. Screw on the central nut (do not tighten it).
8. We return the ball joint to its place.
9. We hang the wheel and do not tighten its fasteners too much.
10. We lower the car (we do not unload the jack completely). Tighten all fasteners to the required torques. We remove the jack and stops. Replacement of the outer CV joint is complete.

The owner of LADA Kalina will spend no more than 3 hours of his time to complete the full list of replacement actions. We check the correct installation of the hinges. To do this, we start driving the car with the wheels turned out as far as possible. We observe the absence of crunching and other characteristic sounds from the axle shaft. Now you know how to change a faulty CV joint.

Removing the right front wheel drive internal CV joint Lada Granta

Self-replacement of the CV joint boot on the Lada Kalina
Tools:

• 17 mm straight box spanner
• Driver for socket attachment
• Extension for the end attachment on the wrench
• 8mm wrench attachment
• 10mm wrench attachment
• High nozzle on the wrench 13 mm
• 17mm wrench attachment
• 19mm wrench attachment
• 30mm wrench attachment
• Torx wrench attachment E12
• Large flat screwdriver or spatula
• Large hammer
• Kerner
• Funnel
• Hose
• Technological capacity
• Metal brush
• Jack or ditch lift
• Stand
• Adjustable stop
• Wheel key

Parts and consumables:

• Right front wheel drive (replacement if necessary)
• Boot of the outer drive joint (replacement if necessary)
• Boot of the internal drive joint (replacement if necessary)
• Inner joint shank retaining ring
• Wood block
• Grease
• Rags

Notes:

Front wheel drives (CV joints) are often sold complete with boots and a retaining ring.

Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

Carry out the work to replace the external and internal joints of the wheel drives, their dirt-proof covers, drive seals, as well as when dismantling the gearbox or power unit.

1. Remove the middle mudguard from the engine compartment.

2. Drain the oil from the gearbox.

3. Lift the front of the car from the right side and remove the wheel.

4. Unscrew the right front wheel hub bearing nut.

5. Remove the two screws securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.

Note:

Turn the steering wheel to the extreme left position so that the steering rod output is at its maximum value. This will allow the outer joint housing shank to be removed from the wheel hub without disconnecting the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

6. Using a 10 mm wrench or socket, unscrew the nut and two bolts securing the heat shield of the inner CV joint protective cover to the rear support bracket of the power unit and remove the shield.

7. Move the steering knuckle with the shock absorber strut to the side and remove the splined shank of the outer joint housing from the wheel hub.

8. Position the drive on the guy wire.

9. Install an adjustable stop under the transmission housing by placing a wooden block under the housing.

10. Using a 19 mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the rear support bracket of the power unit to the clutch housing.

11. Press the rear powertrain mount bracket down, insert a spade or large screwdriver between the drive inner joint housing and the clutch housing, and push the joint housing shank out of the drive gear spline.

Note:

Do not damage the protective ring of the drive oil seal located on the inner joint housing.

12. Remove the right drive, being careful not to damage the oil seal.

Note:

When removing both drives, after dismantling the first one, it is necessary to insert a clamp, for example, a wooden or soft metal roller with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 150 mm, into the hole of the drive gear. Otherwise, the differential drive gears may become misaligned and the drives may not be able to be installed.

13. Before installing the drive, use a screwdriver to pry up the retaining ring of the inner joint housing shank, which secures the drive in the gearbox.

14. Remove the retaining ring.

15. Install a new ring into the groove of the inner joint housing shank. Reuse of retaining rings is not permitted.

16. Before installing the drive, center the retaining ring in the groove of the shank using grease.

17. Insert the splined shank of the outer joint housing into the hole in the wheel hub, install the washer and tighten (do not tighten) the hub bearing nut.

18. Insert the shank of the inner joint housing through the hole in the drive oil seal and, turning the shaft, align the splines of the shank with the splines of the drive gear.

19. Move the suspension arm down and with a sharp movement of the rack with the steering knuckle towards the gearbox, install the drive in place.

20. By pulling the inner joint housing towards you or prying it with a mounting blade, we make sure that the housing shank is fixed in the drive gear.

21. Carry out further assembly in reverse order.

The article is missing:

• Photo of the instrument
• High-quality photos of repairs

What is needed to install a new CV joint

The CV joint, despite its strength, has parts that can wear out over time or if used incorrectly. Often, CV joint replacement occurs due to damage to the boots - during driving, cracks and holes appear that become clogged with dirt, water and dust. This way you can drive hundreds, or even thousands of kilometers, which will finally finish off the mechanism. Boot problems are expressed in a crackling sound when turning the wheels (when turning to the right, the left wheel cracks, when turning to the left, the right wheel cracks). Sometimes the CV joint has to be replaced due to incorrect actions by the driver. Acceleration of the engine with slipping, starting on the wheels turned out, braking by the transmission - often the cause of the malfunction lies in this.

Play in the ball joint has a negative effect on the CV joint. It occurs when the support itself is already severely worn out. If this problem is not identified in time, it will have a very negative impact on the CV joint. Thus, driving at high speed can tear out the support pin, which can cause the grenade to break.

It is extremely rare that CV joint failures are caused by factory defects in the mechanism parts or initially incorrect installation. Coupled with a worn boot, the problem can reach unimaginable proportions. Many reviews on automotive forums mentioned the poor quality of some parts - both basic functional elements and additional little things, like clamps.

Regardless of the source of the problem, a grenade that is not working properly will require replacement. Machine manufacturers claim that when parts wear out, the entire mechanism must be replaced, even those elements that were not damaged by failure. Considering the high quality of materials, the repair will cost quite a lot. In this regard, the car owner tries to replace the CV joint with his own hands. What will the driver need?

• pit or lift;
• hammer, screwdriver, pliers, jack;
• a set of keys or heads;
• bench vice;
• new clamps, lubricant (CV joint-4, for example), hub nut with stopper.

The latter (consumables) are often provided with a new grenade. All of the above are suitable for replacing outer and inner CV joints.

DIY car repair and maintenance

Step-by-step plan for replacing CV joints (grenade)

So, the grenade (both internal and external) on front-wheel drive models of domestic “cars” (God forgive me) starting from the VAZ 2108 and ending with at least 2115 is the same (well, maybe from different manufacturers and different service life of the final ). The same principle applies to Priora, Kalina and Grant.

Greetings, dear visitors! I want to devote this article to replacing the external grenade. If you follow the sometimes unclear terminology (which I don’t always like) - replacing the constant velocity joint, i.e. CV joint. I try to write my articles in everyday language, in which people ask for information.

The photo above shows a damaged Lada 2114, already repaired. The front right side, which we are repairing, was collected in a heap by a frontal impact along with the entire front end (look at the gaps between the parts after the repair, in my opinion, the repair was done perfectly). Looking under the front right wheel I noticed that the drive was bent. I jacked up the car slightly (after making sure the car wouldn't roll), loosened the wheel bolts and immediately removed the cap and loosened the CV joint nut.

If you don't loosen it while the wheel is on the ground, it will be very difficult to unscrew it later. After which, I jacked up the car completely and removed the wheel and unscrewed the grenade nut. There is a washer under the nut (don't lose it, as the new CV joint doesn't come with one).

Next, you need to unscrew the ball. This can be done by unscrewing two 13mm bolts, or you can unscrew the bottom nut of the pin by 17mm and knock it down by pressing it down with a pry bar, while simultaneously tapping it with a hammer (not on the pin or ball), which is what I actually did. Additionally, release the brake caliper hose. This action is shown in two photographs below.

By moving the hub to the side (having previously pushed the grenade inward with the mounting tool and pulling the hub towards us), we release the outer grenade, which we would simply replace without pulling out the entire drive along with the inner CV joint,

...if it weren't for the drive that was bent into a ram's horn. And you see the fate of the outer grenade in the photo - it crumbled.

So, let's replace the drive too. The photo below shows a CV joint from an Italian manufacturer called TRIALLI (Trialli) for 900 rubles. Quite a cheap product of very good quality.

And the photo below illustrates the components of the CV joint:

1. The grenade itself.
2. Two clamps.
3. Protective cover (boot).
4. Retaining ring.
5. A tube of special lubricant (calculated for the entire service life of the hinge, if the case remains intact all this time). There is another cheap but excellent CV joint - 4 for lubricating a grenade for 50 rubles in any auto store
6. Hinge nut.

Since we were changing the drive, we had to knock off the support washer from it and replace it with the new drive, which should fit clearly into the lower groove (photo below). In theory, they should be installed on the new drive anyway. After that, put on the boot and lower it into its seat.

And install the retaining ring. If it is too stretched, first squeeze it and place it in the upper groove. The easiest way to do this is with cone-shaped pliers, inserting them inside the ring and stretching the ring to fit it into the groove. And then, using a special wrench or simple pliers, tighten the lower clamp, but do not tear it off.

Replacing the CV joint on the Lada Grant. Service life and causes of malfunctions of the “grenade”

In a car with front-wheel drive, it is not the driveshaft with the main gear and axle shafts that is responsible for transmitting torque from the gearbox to the wheels, but special parts - CV joints, they are also constant velocity joints, in common parlance - a “grenade”. They consist of a drive and a CV joint itself; there are 2 of them on each drive. – external (closer to the wheel) and internal (closer to the gearbox). The “Grenade” is very durable, and with constant maintenance the car can withstand 100,000 km. and more. However, it does not last forever, and one day it may fail. In this article we will talk about how to independently diagnose and replace an external CV joint using the example of the popular Russian car Lada Granta.

Causes of grenade malfunctions and its diagnosis

Usually the CV joint does not break right away. You will feel the car accelerate jerkily and hear a knocking sound from somewhere in the front suspension. Over time, symptoms worsen. Diagnostics is very simple: put the car on a jack and swing the CV joint of the suspended wheel. Do you feel any play? It's time to change the part.

There are 4 main reasons why CV joints fail prematurely:

1) The part itself is of low quality or defective;

2) The vehicle is operated off-road;

3) The boot has torn, and dust and abrasive particles have penetrated inside;

4) Aggressive driving style.

If you turn to specialists for help, you will have to fork out money. Replacement service costs an average of 1,500 rubles. for 1 CV joint.

You can save money by doing your own repairs: the cost of a spare part in auto shops starts from 1000 – 1500 rubles. for 1 “grenade”, complete with drive components cost about 3000 – 4000 rubles. There are a lot of manufacturers, but it is better to take the original from AvtoVAZ.

Tools and materials

• new CV joint (the grenade itself, without the drive) and lubricant for it;
• jack, hammer;
• wheel wrench, mounting, pipe of suitable diameter;
• a set of wrenches and sockets, a screwdriver;
• graphite lubricant.

How to determine a breakdown?

Removing and replacing the internal and external CV joints of the Lada Priora

The grenade is a ball bearing, the cages of which have transverse grooves. Due to this, the angle between the driven and driven axle shaft changes. Thus, the CV joint not only transmits torque, but also changes the angle between the axle shafts. In view of this, over time, it develops. In places where the parts do not fit tightly, backlash and extraneous noise are formed. In fact, this is accompanied by a characteristic crunch. It occurs due to large wear on the balls that move along the grooves. The crunch can appear both during straight-line movement and when turning. In the latter case, most likely, the external grenade of the Kalina requires replacement. This sign should not be ignored, since the bearing may fall apart at high speed.

Checking the condition of the CV joint

1. External (external) CV joints - two pieces, located on the hubs, transmit torque to the wheels. The steering angle is significantly higher than that of an internal CV joint. They also take on more load. Accordingly, they break down more often and require regular inspection and replacement if necessary. They have a smaller size.
2. There are two internal CV joints that make the axle shaft move; they are located in the gearbox, one on each side. They are larger in size. They are less subject to stress and, accordingly, can work longer.

You can assess the condition of the CV joint yourself. The easiest way to inspect the external one is to turn the steering wheel all the way (to the right or left) and quietly move away. If there is a problem, a cracking or crunching sound will appear. The more damage is done to the CV joint parts, the louder the sound will be.

If problems with the external grenade are accompanied by a crash when turning, then problems with the internal grenade are accompanied by a crack when moving straight. The sound will intensify if you drive off-road - every bump, hole or ditch will clearly remind you of the problem. If you notice a crunching sound, carry out repairs immediately - problems with the internal CV joint are very dangerous. It's a little more difficult to inspect:

1. We put the car on the lift.
2. We turn on first gear, the wheels should rotate slowly (the car should be slightly raised).
3. The presence of a distinct crunching sound is evidence of problems.

If you hear a cracking sound while driving - when turning, when overcoming off-road obstacles, or sudden acceleration - immediately fix the problem. Timely inspection and repair will help the car owner remain a driver and not a pedestrian. In addition, a problem detected in time will help to avoid critical situations on the road.

Signs of failure of the outer grenade (CV joint).

There are two options here:

• signs that your grenade has already broken
• signs that the grenade will soon come out and break .

How to understand that a grenade will soon break.

Of course, the first sign of a malfunction of the external grenade is a crackling sound . If you hear a crackling noise while driving with the steering wheel turned, it is definitely a CV joint. The greater the angle of rotation of the wheel and the harder you press on the gas, the louder the clicks. Another sign that does not always appear is vibration on the steering wheel at speeds greater than 80 km/h. The vibration is only slightly similar to the vibration from an unbalanced wheel. It usually manifests itself as a slight twitching of the steering wheel.

How to understand that the outer CV joint has broken.

If the CV joint breaks, the car will stop moving. In any gear engaged, press the gas, the speed increases, but the car does not move.

How to understand that it is the outer CV joint that has broken, and not the internal one or the clutch in general (the first signs of failure are similar to the signs of a clutch failure)? First of all, start the car and put it in any gear. Next, open the hood and look in turn at each of the shafts going from the box to the wheels (one short, the other long). If any shaft is spinning, it means that the CV joint has broken on this side.

I recommend not just visually looking at the shaft, but touching it with some long, hard object, such as a stick. The main thing is that there is nothing on it that can wrap around the shaft !!! When you touch the shaft with a stick, if it is spinning, you will feel a slight vibration. This is usually done in the dark, because it is difficult to understand whether a cylindrical object is spinning, especially in the dark.

How to change the CV joint (grenade) on a VAZ, Lada + video: 32 comments

Thanks for the article, it helped me a lot.

I’m glad if I could clearly explain the repair process, thank you for visiting!

Everything is very clearly and competently described! Thank you for wasting your time on clearing up) there is one more question, I was told that when replacing external grenades, the internal ones fly after 2 weeks, is this true?

No that's not true. They will only fly if they are already damaged... Thank you

Thank you very much for the article. Everything is simple, clear and intelligible.

Thanks for the article, only a fool wouldn’t understand it clearly

Glad I could help

I was repairing a friend's chassis and while replacing the ball joint, I pulled out the internal grenade. Since there was little time, I simply hammered the grenade back and put everything back in place. Right now I’m afraid that the CV joint is not completely in place. Is this possible? Is it even possible to put it back like that? And why did she fly out so easily?

Yes, it's possible. But, if the box seal is intact and there is no oil leakage around the internal grenade, then it is in place

If in doubt, check whether the CV joint is in place, as described in this article https://arbi-idirisov.ru/kak-pomenyat-granatu/

Thanks for the help. Everything is clear and most importantly understandable to beginners like me

Tell me why the internal CV joint fell out while driving

So he fell apart...

Or, if the drive was removed before, but during installation the grenade was not hammered in by seating the locking ring...

Hello. The essence of the problem is this: when the engine is running in neutral, you hear a knocking noise on the left side, you squeeze the clutch - and there is silence in the cabin. Plus the drive (shaft) spins and the car does not move. What could be the problem? External grenade or internal? Or even a box...

If there is a noise, but when you press the clutch it goes away, then it is the release bearing 100%

If you mean that the car does not move when the speed is turned on, but the drive is spinning, then the external grenade has broken off. Take the drive with your hand closer to the outer grenade and shake it; if there is play, it means it’s broken... Check the inner grenade in the same way

If the problem is in the grenade, then first replace it, and then listen to the release bearing, if it doesn’t make noise when it’s pressed out, but makes noise when it’s released, then it’s the end of it

The drive needs to be rocked transversely, not longitudinally. It may also be that the clutch disc is worn out, then the car won’t move either, the engine speed will rise, but the car won’t move.

Thanks for the article, everything is very clear!

Excellent article, very detailed and clearly written and photographed. Thank you.

Well done author! Everything is very intelligible and understandable. Thank you and good luck! I'll change it today)

Thank you! Arman, if the article helped, then I’m very glad, it means it’s not in vain, any questions you may have regarding chassis or bodywork, repairs, I’ll be happy to help

I have a question - there is a ring on the grenade, and a similar one on the hub (quite soft). Jammed on the hub This is a ring. Is this scary, or is this just nonsense? I jammed it tightly, bent it with a screwdriver, it turned out, of course, not evenly, very much.

I'm afraid that it won't sit straight, the wheel will start to spin, etc.

I figured it out on my own. Everything fits well, doesn’t interfere with anything, doesn’t scrape.

My outer grenade broke during transportation on the strap, at first there was a crunch, then the check light came on and the ABS disappeared and how to fix it

When to change the CV joint, signs of malfunction

As was said, the external grenade fails after about 40 thousand mileage. This is evidenced by crunching, creaking and knocking sounds in the area of ​​the drive shafts. To determine which side of the CV joint requires replacement, you need to turn the steering wheel all the way and drive off. In 90% of cases, a worn drive will manifest itself as a crunching sound. For control, you can turn it first in one direction, and then in the other direction, and turn it back. If the CV joint is worn out, a crunching sound will be heard immediately.

New and worn CV joint

This is the case when there are no visual signs of wear:

1. Lubricant leaks near the outer joint.
2. Cracks, tears on the boot.
3. Lost or misaligned clamps.
4. There is obvious play when turning the suspended wheel.

If there are visual signs of wear, we replace the CV joint on the Grant as soon as possible.

CV joint repair

As mentioned above, the hinge cannot be repaired. Conventionally, one of the repair measures includes washing the “grenade” after driving with a damaged boot.

Washing is carried out at the same time when the damaged boot on the pomegranate is replaced. The hinge is carefully knocked off the shaft, inspected for damage and thoroughly washed to remove any dirt and grease in gasoline or kerosene.

After washing, the assembly is filled with lubricant and mounted in place, having previously installed the boot. The procedure makes sense only if there are no obvious signs of a joint malfunction.

A crunchy or knocking part definitely needs to be replaced, since wear forms on the working surfaces of the inner race, and it is no longer possible to stop the destruction. Continued operation of the vehicle may be dangerous for the driver and other road users.

Replacing the outer CV joint boot without removing it

This option eliminates the separation of the hinge and the shaft (if dismantling is not provided for by the design or there is a risk of destruction of parts). To carry out the procedure, you will need a special device that stretches the anther.

The time spent on repairs in this case is minimal, but be careful - there is a risk of damaging the elastic element.

The most difficult thing in such work is filling the internal cavity with lubricant.

Often car owners are faced with “sticking” to the hinge shaft. If the hub is held in place by a bolt, tighten it as much as possible to separate the parts. When the part rests against the axial end, make 3 additional turns (use a wrench). When fastening with nuts, you need to remove the axle shaft and clamp the drive in a vice. This fixation allows you to knock down the part with a chisel. If this fails, the not most convenient “home” option remains - cutting the ring with a grinder.

Boot replacement and repair

The boot can be changed without removing the grenade if you have special equipment. His work is demonstrated on video. If you do not have such a device, to remove and replace it, you must perform the above procedure for removing the drive and dismantling the hinge. The procedure is necessary if there is even minor through damage on the boot.

Temporary repairs to the CV joint boot can be made without removing it from the vehicle. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean and degrease the damage, then seal it with a piece of rubber and cyanoacrylate-based glue (superglue).

An alternative repair method is to seal the holes with silicone caulk. It should be remembered that it takes a day to completely polymerize.

Note: express repair is a temporary measure. Replacing the inner joint boot may be delayed for a short time, but not completely cancelled. Typically, these types of repair methods are used to get to the point of repair.

Choosing an outer CV joint for the Lada Granta

There are enough hinges from different manufacturers on sale, it’s bad that sellers treat them like all Zhiguli spare parts - everything is the same. In practice, for the first generation Grants there are two types of external (and internal) CV joints - for cars with manual transmission and for Grants with automatic transmission. In a word, grenade 2215012-00 (21 teeth) .

For Lada Granta with a manual transmission there is a CV joint with catalog number 2215012-86 . In order not to be confused with numbers, let’s look at the differences between CV joints for Grants with automatic transmission and manual transmission:

• The spline connection in the outer hinge has changed in size, the number of teeth is 21 . A CV joint with 22 splines is suitable for a manual transmission.
• The geometric dimensions of the body have also been changed.
• The length of the outer spline part for manual transmission is 76.5 mm , for automatic transmission - 77 mm .
• height (without spline) 55 mm for automatic and 52.2 mm for manual .
• The number of teeth for the ABS ring does not change and remains 43.

Therefore, before purchasing an outer CV joint, we first look at the number of splines on the inside of the joint body. Among the manufacturers on the market, AvtoVAZ, Belmag and Triall dominate. The price of an outer CV joint on a Lada Granta is around $20.

It is important that the kit includes a locking ring, molybdenum disulfide-based lubricant and a neoprene boot. It should not be too hard, but a boot that is too thin will not last long.

Sources

• https://AutoManya.ru/kuplya-prodazha/vnutrennyaya-granata-granta.html
• https://kalina-2.ru/remont-vaz/zamena-vnutrennego-shrusa-lada-granta
• https://autodont.ru/running-gear/menyaem-shrus-samostoyatelno
• https://AVSU-pitanie.ru/info/lada-granta-zamena-shrusa-video/
• https://www.vaz-zona.ru/zamena-shrusa/
• https://granta-service.ru/prochee/zamena-pylnika-shrusa-vaz-2110-bez-snyatiya-shrusa-video-instruktsiya.html
• https://dtp-avarii.ru/kak-pomenjat-shrus-na-grante-video/
• https://zen.yandex.ru/media/uremont/zamena-pylnika-narujnego-shrusa—kak-zamenit-samomu-instrukciia-s-foto-5e907393f49321656d3e9dbc

CV joint Lada Granta | transmission gearbox clutch Lada Granta

1. Replacement of the outer CV joint for the Lada Granta

2. Video: “Replacing the boot of the outer and inner CV joint (grenade)

Replacement of outer CV joint for Lada Granta

Still, I decided to change the CV joint today. because then there will be no time. I made a photo report, as detailed as I could.

sit down and remove the wheel

While the car is still with the wheel, loosen the hub nut using a 30mm socket and use a metal pipe for reinforcement.

Next, unscrew the caliper assembly. Some will say that there is no need to do this, because you can change the grenade anyway, but it’s convenient for me so that he doesn’t interfere with me.

then unscrew the two bolts from the ball joint

then unscrew the loose hub nut completely, and using a mounting tool (a small pull) remove the hub from the ball and at the same time from the CV joint

remove the boot from the CV joint and remove all possible lubricant so that there is less dirt

and start trying to knock out the grenade with a hammer. And she gave in quite easily, not like last time, we beat her for almost 2 hours.

remove the old retaining ring.

This is a comparison of CV joints from two manufacturers, on the right is BELMAG, and on the left is produced by AVTOVAZ. The difference is immediately visible, AVTOVAZ has a deeper CV joint calcination than BELMAG, which already gives AVTOVAZ a big plus. Let's hope that the new CV joint lasts at least 30 thousand km, and not like BELMAG only 3000 km went before it cracked. The cost of the AVTOVAZ CV joint is 1500 rubles, and the BELMAG CV joint is 1000 rubles, and the kit includes CV joint grease.

Fill the entire CV joint bearing with grease.

We put on a new boot, fill it with the remaining CV joint grease, and install a new snap ring. If the anther does not want to get dressed, then a screwdriver will help, as an option

We screw the old hub nut onto the CV joint.

hold the CV joint straight on the drive and hit the screwed nut with a hammer and hammer the CV joint into place.

But no! Let's take a larger hammer - 2 precise blows and the CV joint sits in its place.

Pull the boot and tighten the clamps on the boot.

When assembling the unit, we do everything in the reverse order, but do not forget to lubricate all the bolts with graphite grease so that nothing sticks.