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Lada Kalina is a front-wheel drive car, the engine and gearbox are located across the body. The main gear drives the wheels. CV joint - a constant velocity joint (popularly called a “grenade”) provides torque. There are several such hinges in the Lada Kalina (internal and external). A common reason for repairing Kalina is replacing the CV joint boot, which quickly wears out and breaks.
Self-replacement of the CV joint boot on a Lada Kalina
Hello everyone, today we’ll talk about CV joints. In this article I will tell you how to identify a problematic CV joint, as well as how to replace the CV joint boot on a Kalina at home.
I once already talked about how to replace the CV joint on a VAZ 2108. Today everything will be almost the same, only this time we will not change the CV joint, but only the boot, and not on the V8, but on the Kalina.
A few words about what a CV joint is. This abbreviation hides four words - constant velocity joint; people usually call it a “grenade” because of its external similarity. This clever mechanism is necessary in order to ensure the transmission of torque from the gearbox to the wheels. The CV joint design allows the wheels to rotate at different angles, up to 70°.
The “grenade” mechanism is carefully hidden under the boot, inside of which there is lubricant. After several years of operation, the rubber boot of the CV joint becomes unusable, cracks form on its surface, through which the lubricant leaks out, and instead of it, dirt and moisture get inside. If damage to the boot is not detected in time, you can “ruin” the constant velocity joint itself, which is very “afraid” of sand, dirt and water that gets on its rotating parts. Therefore, it is cheaper to replace the CV joint boot than to hold out until costly repairs are required.
Consequences of damage.
Damage to the boot leads to water, dust and dirt getting onto the steering rod.
Then all the dirt gets into the working unit and acts there as a powerful abrasive. Contamination leads to an increase in micro-tears, and after water enters the unit, it causes corrosion. If the problem is not noticed in time, the unit may suffer greatly. This approach will provoke the appearance of extraneous noise (even a slight deviation from the norm will lead to the appearance of extraneous sounds) or loss of control. In order not to spend money on replacing or repairing more steering parts, it is much easier, and more financially profitable, to change the anthers. This will help prevent the replacement of the entire steering and specifically such parts as bearings, springs, piston and others. The difficulty of this problem is that it is impossible to determine when the break occurred. Thus, you can drive and not suspect that the element is damaged and needs to be replaced. The problem can be determined by checking the play in the parts, or by visual inspection. If this problem is discovered, the damaged element must be replaced immediately.
How do you understand that the CV joint boot needs to be replaced?
- Everything is very simple, you drive into a pit and check the boot, if there is no damage on its surface and the boot is “dry” (no traces of oil), you can safely continue driving from time to time, performing this simple check procedure.
- Sometimes problems with the CV joint boot manifest themselves in a different way, for example, during a sharp start, a single crunch or knock may be heard in the area of the front wheels. For some, a crunching sound occurs when turning the wheels while driving. In such cases, you most likely won’t get away with just replacing the boot and you will have to change the entire “grenade” assembly.
Well, let’s finish this brief excursion and move on directly to the troubleshooting process, but first, prepare the tool.
You will need:
- Jack, hammer, wooden block;
- Keys to “17”, “30”;
- Mount, spray can;
- Flat-head screwdriver, special pliers for installing clamps;
- New boot + CV joint grease, graphite grease, kerosene or similar flushing fluid.
Prevention
From time to time it is necessary to inspect all rubber boots. Unscrew the wheels and take a look. Are there any traces of dirt or grease? The anthers must be free of creases and cracks. As in the photo.
The left boot is in excellent condition.
The right boot is in excellent condition.
How to replace the CV joint boot on a Lada Kalina?
We will replace the boot on the removed axle shaft, this will simplify and speed up the work process.
1. Place the car on a flat surface, tighten the handbrake and place wedges or something similar under the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
2. Take the “balloon” and start removing the wheel. Don't rush to jack up the car; remove the bolts while the car is standing on four points. After this, you can jack up one side on which the work will be done. It is dangerous to work on a jack, so be on the safe side and place a block or metal jack under the car.
3. Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry up the protective cap and remove the wheel arch liners (if any).
4. Place a container under the drain hole of the gearbox, unscrew the plug and drain the transmission oil.
5. Next, you need to unscrew the two mounting bolts that secure the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
6. Now you need to unscrew the hub nut. To do this, you need to fix the hub; to do this, just press the brake pedal. If you have no one to help you, use some kind of device that will apply pressure on the brake instead of an assistant.
7. We take out the thrust washer, then turn the wheels to the extreme position (it all depends on which side the replacement is happening from) and squeeze the outer CV joint out of the hub. To prevent the drive shaft from falling, it is better to hang it with a piece of wire.
8. Using a pry bar, press the inner CV joint out of the box with one hand, and hold the drive shaft itself with the other hand.
Important note! If you need to remove both drive shafts, you should insert the old CV joint into the box before pressing the second shaft in its place. If you do not do this, the alignment of the side gears will be disrupted, after which you will not be able to install the drive shaft.
9. Take the drive shaft and fix it in a vice, then use a screwdriver to remove the old clamps and cut off the old boots (if they are damaged). If the anthers are in order and will be installed back, there is no need to cut them off.
10. Next, using a hammer and a soft metal or wood socket, knock the outer and inner CV joints off the drive shaft.
11. Using a washing liquid (kerosene, gasoline, etc.), rinse the “grenade” and check the condition of its parts. If during the inspection you did not find anything suspicious (violation of symmetry, play, crack development, etc.), you can begin installing new boots on the shaft.
12. We put on the boots carefully so as not to tear them, then we fill the outer CV joint housing with special lubricant, after which we install its drive shaft. Then we fill the hinge until it clicks.
13. Next, using pliers, squeeze the clamp on the boot on one side. Squeeze the boot slightly to release the air, then tighten the boot clamp on the other side.
Do-it-yourself car repairs
“Kalina” is a simple car, so the driver can repair most of the damage himself. For example, you can fix the following problems on your own:
- change the engine air filter;
- remove air from the cooling system;
- change the water pump;
- eliminate the rattling of the gear knob;
- change the ignition module;
- replace the generator diode bridge;
- install a brand new outer CV joint to replace the crackling old one.
Repairing the LADA Kalina car yourself must be carried out in accordance with the instructions, using only good car mechanic tools, if you need to use special equipment and pullers for repairs.
How to change a constant velocity joint?
You can replace the outer CV joint in a Lada Kalina car without using a lift or pit, but you will need to place the car on a flat surface. Replace in this way:
- first you need to loosen the hub nut and unscrew it, because after removing the wheel it will become difficult to move the nut;
- loosen the wheel nuts, then use a jack to remove the wheel. In order to prevent the car from rolling, it is necessary to place stops under the rear wheels, and in front near the jack, for the purpose of reinsurance, place a support under the threshold (you can use a wooden block);
- unscrew the ball joint bolts at the bottom (two bolts);
- pull the steering knuckle towards you, release the wheel drive;
- remove the clamps from the boot;
- move the boot towards the gearbox, knock out the outer CV joint through a bronze or copper drift;
- put the new device in place, fill the joint with grease, fix the boot on the CV joint with new clamps;
- complete installation of all parts.
How to remove air from the cooling system?
An air lock in the cooling system can appear for a number of reasons, and first of all, the stove in the cabin stops blowing heated air, the temperature rises, and antifreeze boils. When the upper and lower pipes are compressed, a void is felt due to the lack of coolant in them. Often, “airing” occurs as a result of changing the heater radiator; removing air from the system is sometimes too problematic. But you can try installing an auxiliary tee on the lower pipe of the heater under the hood, and lead a new hose into the expansion tank at the top; you need to install a plug in the lower pipe from the tank to the lower radiator tube.
How to change a water pump?
The service life of the water pump on an 8-valve VAZ-21114 engine averages about 70-100 thousand kilometers. When the pump begins to make noise or leak, it must be replaced. It must be said that on all models 2108-15, Priora and Lada Kalina with an 8-valve engine, the water pump is replaced in the same way and in the following sequence:
- drain the antifreeze from the cooling system;
- disconnect the plastic timing belt cover;
- provided that there is no need to change the timing belt, there is no need to remove the crankshaft pulley, which means there is no need to remove the right wheel;
- put a mark on the timing gear - you need it to align with the drain on the rear timing case;
- release the tension roller, remove the belt from the timing gear;
- unscrew the three bolts securing the pump using a hexagon, remove the pump;
- install the new water pump in place, put on the belt, apply tension with the tension roller, check that the marks match, on the crankshaft the mark is located on the flywheel below the rubber plug of the gearbox housing;
- pour antifreeze, start the engine, check if the antifreeze is leaking and if there is noise in the pump. Provided that everything is normal, install the timing case in place.
How to change the air filter?
On a LADA Kalina car (with engine 21114), changing the air filter is not a difficult task; it must be done in the following sequence:
- Unscrew the screws of the top cover of the air filter casing using a simple Phillips screwdriver;
- lift the top cover and remove the filter element;
- put the new air filter in place;
- tighten the screws of the filter element housing.
It is recommended to change the air filter on Kalina after every 30 thousand km. mileage, and if the car is used in regions with high levels of dust in the atmosphere, the filter element must be replaced much more often.
How to change a power window?
When the power window cable on your car wears out or the motor burns out, you need to replace the ESP. The work should be done in this order:
- remove the power window control module;
- dismantle the door trim;
- to disconnect the power window from the glass, you need to lift the glass up to the very end;
- Unscrew the four bolts securing the glass to the ESP (two in front and two in back). Although the glass is held in place by seals, it can be secured so that it does not fall down;
- unscrew the black metal strip;
- unscrew eleven fasteners for the electric window (ten bolts), disconnect the power plug from the electric motor;
- you need to start removing the ESP from the back, first free one half;
- After that, remove the front part of the door cavity along with the motor.
Replacing an electric motor that has burned out is easy. In this case it is necessary:
- unscrew three studs on the device casing, and then four more screws;
- remove the motor, supporting the cable reel with your hand, install a new element;
- Insert the power window into the door, align it with the glass guides, and install the housing in place.
Replacing the CV joint boot on a Lada Kalina
The Kalina car has a fairly simple design, thanks to which experienced car owners can carry out most routine repairs and restoration operations in a personal garage. With your own hands you can:
- replace the air pump and air filter;
- replace the ignition system module;
- change the diode bridge;
- remove air from the cooling system;
- dismantle the water pump and replace it with a new one;
- change the protective cover of the grenade, replace the worn, crisp CV joint with a new part.
Grenade
The Kalina CV joint or “grenade,” as car owners call this unit in driver’s slang, is a mechanism that transmits rotation to the wheels. Structurally, grenades are quite simple, while ensuring rotation of wheels that are not located parallel. The functional unit is securely covered under a ribbed cover containing lubricant inside. After several years of hard work, the rubber boot of the hinge exhausts its service life: its surface becomes covered with tears, allowing lubricant to seep out, and dust and water begin to actively penetrate into the unit from the external environment. If the defect that has arisen is not detected in a timely manner, the Lada Kalina grenade can very quickly fail, since the mechanism does not tolerate moisture, sand and dirt falling on the contacting surfaces. Prevention is always cheaper than treatment, so it will be much cheaper to change the boot than to wait for a breakdown and replace the entire device.
What is CV joint
The abbreviation CV joint stands for constant velocity joint, which ensures the transmission of torque from the gearbox to the wheels. People call the CV joint a grenade because of its purely visual similarity.
Thanks to its design, the CV joint allows the wheels to rotate at different angles up to 70 degrees. The CV joint itself is protected by a boot. If the machine is used for a long time, for example, several years, the rubber boot of the CV joint becomes unusable, tears and cracks appear, the lubricant gradually leaks out and mixes with dirt. To prevent the CV joint itself from breaking, which simply cannot tolerate sand and dirt, it is necessary to check the condition of the boot from time to time, and, if damage is detected, replace it in time. Otherwise, this may lead to breakdown of the CV joint itself, and its replacement will be more expensive. For those who are going to replace the CV joint boot for the first time, I advise you to watch this video:
Replacing outer and inner CV joints on Lada Kalina
CV joint (constant velocity joint - approx.) or popularly just a “grenade”, is designed to transmit torque to the wheels of a car. CV joints can be internal or external, and the devices themselves are quite simple in technical terms and consist of a ball bearing that rotates transversely to its axis. In the video, replacing CV joints on a Lada Kalina:
Failure of a CV joint on a Lada Kalina is a very common occurrence, and the main reason for its failure is torn anthers. Because, together with dust and water falling under them, the lubricant turns into thick mud, and it is no longer able to fully perform its functions.
Front suspension CV joint design
The Lada Kalina car has front-wheel drive, which receives torque using a gearbox regardless of the angle of rotation. Front suspension drives (left and right) - consist of two working joints of equal angular velocities and a connecting shaft that provides connection between them. The left short shaft is made of a special steel bar, and the right long shaft is made of durable steel pipe. The shank of the inner joint housing is connected via a spline to the differential side gear. Torque is transmitted from the hinge to the drive shaft at the required angles. A feature of the design of the internal CV joint of the Lada Kalina is that, in addition to transmitting torque at several angles, it allows movement along the axis of the hinge body and the drive shaft of the suspension when moving.
With proper operation and timely maintenance of the vehicle, the joints can last up to 100 thousand km. According to statistics, external hinges are prone to failure more often than internal ones, which is primarily due to external factors.
How the malfunction manifests itself
The Lada Kalina CV joint is a unit designed to work in extreme conditions. Accordingly, this device has a solid margin of safety and high-quality protection from adverse factors - a boot made of durable rubber, hermetically isolating the mechanism from the external environment. If the car undergoes maintenance on time and is carefully maintained by the owner, and is used on good highways, then both external and internal CV joints work flawlessly for a long time, without causing any complaints.
When the car is used to travel over rough terrain, where potholes are common, the hinges, which experience extreme loads, can be damaged. In addition, the breakdown of this functional unit may be due to other circumstances:
- production errors;
- use of material that does not meet technical requirements;
- use of low quality lubricant;
- clogging of the internal space.
If the owner of the car begins to hear a metallic grinding, clicking or crunching noise while driving along the highway, you should check the integrity of the boots and the functionality of the outer and inner CV joints at the first opportunity. If any of the components fails, it is completely replaced.
How to change the inner CV joint on Kalina, Priora, Nexia
The inner CV joint is one of the most important mechanisms in the transmission system. Its purpose is to transmit torque from the transmission directly to the front wheels. Most modern front-wheel drive cars are equipped with this part, and each drive is equipped with two CV joints: internal and front.
Failure of this small part if not corrected in a timely manner can lead to wear and damage to other important parts of the transmission. To prevent such an unpleasant situation, the car owner must know:
- signs of CV joint failure;
- basic diagnostic methods.
And also be able, if necessary, to replace a damaged mechanism with a new one. This does not require extensive experience in car repair, therefore, if desired, almost anyone who confidently holds a wrench in their hands can cope with the task. Next, the features of replacing the internal CV joint will be described.
Features of the internal CV joint design
The main feature of the internal CV joint mechanisms on Kalina and most other front-wheel drive cars is that they are made from materials of increased strength, since the parts operate under significant loads and are susceptible to exposure to aggressive environments. The use of high-strength alloys significantly increases the service life of all components, however, under the influence of various factors, they can be subject to accelerated wear.
Product delivery options
Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the shipping method. Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.
Parcel by Russian Post
Available payment methods:
- Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.
Parcel by Russian Post 1st class
Available payment methods:
- Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg
Express Parcel EMS
Available payment methods:
- Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.
Transport companies
Available payment methods:
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Delivery is possible to any locality where there is a representative office of the transport company. Delivery time is from 2 to 10 days. Sending large parcels is approximately 50% more profitable than by Russian Post.
Pickup from our warehouse
Available payment methods:
- Cash upon receipt
- Credit, installments
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Pickup times must coincide with store opening hours.
The high speeds of modern vehicles of all VAZ and Lada models place high demands on the technical condition of the chassis and the use of high-quality and high-quality spare parts, which directly affect the car’s handling. For maximum speed, it is important to maintain smooth and free rotation on the wheels, and this is only possible with stable transmission of torque from the power unit to the drive shafts, the connecting elements of which need constant and reliable protection from dust.
The main function of using boots is to prevent the penetration of road debris and moisture into the shaft articulation elements and to avoid washing out lubricants. Ensuring complete protection of the components of the VAZ 2108 drive shafts from external influences lies in the resistance of the boot material to scratches and changes in ambient temperature. When creating complete security for the VAZ 2110 CV joint elements, designers do not forget about the availability of these elements for replacement and the ease of installation of new necessary components. Modern boot products are designed using the latest technology and manufactured using quality mechanized tools to ensure that the final product is aesthetically pleasing, fits perfectly and matches the design exactly.
The CV boot protects the internal sections of the mechanical shaft joint from water, pebbles, and road dirt and prevents their possible damage. Considering the state of Russian roads and the influence of weather conditions, sooner or later the CV boot is damaged, leading to damage to the bearing assembly. When a boot ruptures or cracks, the lubricant inside it mixes with dirt, damaging the elements and putting significant resistance on the steering and suspension.
By periodically inspecting the external condition of the anthers, it is possible to save not only the budget, but also the labor costs for repairing the entire front-wheel drive unit, thanks to a simple method of timely detection of faults. The durable boot material is highly resistant to cracking and damage. Replacement and installation of anthers is carried out without the use of special tools. It is possible to restore the working condition of a VAZ 1117 vehicle and a VAZ 2190 model on your own, leaving your money in your pocket. The new boot will look and function like it was replaced at the dealer, improving the performance of the car.
The main advantages of timely replacement of the CV joint boot for Priora, VAZ 2108, 2110 models, as well as Lada Kalina and Granta:
- maintaining constant and complete protection from the penetration of debris, dirt and moisture;
- preventing mixing of lubricant with dust;
- avoiding washout of lubricant from drive shaft articulation components;
- increased resistance of the boot material to scratches and temperature changes;
- simple and self-installation.
Protection of rotating elements is a mandatory condition for operation on Russian roads for VAZ 2114, Kalina and other models of domestic manufacturers. That is why it is necessary to periodically inspect the CV joint boots. By installing new CV joint protection, you can be sure that the wheels will rotate in accordance with the speed characteristics presented in the manufacturer’s technical description.
How to identify a malfunction?
CV joint is a design that is a complicated version of the cardan and gear drive. Just like the cardan, the grenade ensures the transmission of torque when the direction of the axes changes. And just like a gear drive, a CV joint engages between the driving and driven elements, only the role of the teeth in this case is played by balls moving in the longitudinal recesses.
Since the balls constantly move along the grooves, metal is produced there over time, which leads to the appearance of extraneous noise. If you ignore the first symptoms of a serious defect and postpone inspection of the grenades until later, one of the units may collapse during the trip.
How to determine a breakdown?
The grenade is a ball bearing, the cages of which have transverse grooves. Due to this, the angle between the driven and driven axle shaft changes. Thus, the CV joint not only transmits torque, but also changes the angle between the axle shafts. In view of this, over time, it develops. In places where the parts do not fit tightly, backlash and extraneous noise are formed. In fact, this is accompanied by a characteristic crunch. It occurs due to large wear on the balls that move along the grooves. The crunch can appear both during straight-line movement and when turning. In the latter case, most likely, the external grenade of the Kalina requires replacement. This sign should not be ignored, since the bearing may fall apart at high speed.
Replacement of internal and external CV joints - affordable price, impeccable quality
In a car service, replacement of CV joints, internal and external, is carried out with a minimum of discomfort for the car owner: quickly and at an affordable price. Carrying out such a responsible operation as replacing the outer or inner CV joint on a car, our craftsmen guarantee the exceptional quality of the work performed and the spare parts used.
Replacing a CV joint (replacing a grenade) - the design and principle of operation of this unit
CV joint - or constant velocity joint - is a device that transmits torque from the differential to the wheels. The CV joint consists of the following parts:
- Frame;
- Separator;
- Clip;
- Balloons;
- Clamps;
- Retaining rings;
- Protective cover (dust boot).
The spherical body has grooves for the balls, just like the CV joint cage. The cage is designed to hold the balls in position (just like any regular bearing). Thanks to its design, this joint can transmit rotation at almost any angle of deflection of the shafts (up to 350 degrees), and transmit it evenly. The boot also protects the internal surfaces of the hinge from moisture, dust and dirt, which increase friction and prematurely wear out this unit.
Removing and replacing the Lada Priora CV joint
Article: Outer CV Joint - 77205S. Inner CV joint - FJ-228.
Tools: To remove and replace the inner and outer CV joints of the Lada Priora, you will need pliers, a hammer and a block or a wooden block.
Removal and replacement of the Lada Priora CV joint is carried out on a lift or inspection pit. In general, this procedure is the same for all domestic front-wheel drive cars, such as VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, LADA Granta.
Repair or replacement of the Lada Priora CV joint is carried out with the front wheel drive removed. The first step is to remove the boot from the grenade by holding the removed drive shaft in a vice.
Replacing CV joints on Lada Priora
Using pliers, we bend the inner clamp and open the lock of the dirt cover, and do the same with the outer clamp.
Replacing the outer CV joint of Lada Priora
We move the boot along the shaft towards the center and turn it inside out.
Now you need to knock out the inner CV joint from the shaft. To do this, use a hammer and a soft metal drift. When manipulating with a hammer, forces are applied to the hinge cage.
We knock out the CV joint from the shaft
Installing a new joint will require plenty of lubrication. Drive in the SHARS using a hammer and a wooden plate, which is applied to the outer end of the shank, after which sharp blows are applied with the tool.
After installing a new grenade on the shaft, it is cleaned of dirt and thoroughly lubricated again. The lubricant has excellent sealing properties, which will provide friction units with reliable protection from moisture and dirt. Then put on the boot and secure it with clamps.
The outer or outer joint is replaced after both the outer and inner CV joints are removed. The dirt cover is also turned inside out, the shaft is clamped in a vice and the outer CV joint is knocked out of it.
Replacement of external CV joint of Lada Priora
Its installation is similar to the internal hinge. However, there is one important difference when using lubricant. It should be two times less than in the inner CV joint.
Finally, all removed parts are installed in the reverse order. After installing new grenades, the car goes through any turns smoothly and without unpleasant sounds, and the process of driving on a straight road becomes much quieter.
It is important to know that even minor damage to the drive boot requires its replacement. The fact is that the main and rapid wear of the grenade occurs when dust and dirt enter the drive through cracks in the boot.
To increase the service life of CV joints, it is recommended to periodically inspect the rubber dirt-proof covers on the shaft and replace them as soon as necessary.
Disassembly algorithm
When a decision is made to dismantle the outer CV joint for replacement, proceed according to the following scheme:
- Using a gate extension, the wheel bolts are torn off and the hub nut is unscrewed.
- The car is lifted off the floor with a jack.
- The wheel is dismantled.
- The fastener of the ball joint is unscrewed.
- Having turned the steering wheel as much as possible, you need to press the steering knuckle and remove the hub with the hinge. In this case, you can help yourself a little with a hammer.
- The damaged protective cover and clamps are removed from the grenade.
- To dismantle the CV joint, special equipment is used. If it is missing, the hinge can be knocked down with gentle blows of a hammer.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED
To replace the grenade yourself, you will need the following equipment:
- Jack, pry bar and wheel wrench;
- Wrenches (or sockets with extension) for 17 and 30;
- CV joint puller (if you don’t have one, you can use a hammer and a wooden spacer);
- Clamp pliers or sliding pliers;
- Flat screwdriver;
- New CV joint boot for Kalina, two clamps, CV joint lubricant, hub nut, flushing fluid.
PROCEDURE FOR REPLACING THE BOOT
Replacing the outer CV joint boot on a Lada Kalina with your own hands, if you have the necessary tools and minimal skills, will take no more than 2-3 hours and will not cause any special problems.
PREPARING THE VEHICLE
To carry out repairs, you need to place the Lada Kalina on a level surface, apply the handbrake and block the rear wheels with wheel chocks. Next, you should loosen the wheel bolts, use a flat screwdriver to remove the protective cap of the hub and use a 30mm socket with an extension to remove the hub nut. Then we lift the car on a jack and finally remove the front wheel.
Warning! Do not carry out work to replace the hinge on a jacked up Lada Kalina; install a stop of a suitable height or at least place a pair of wheels under the bottom.
DISCONNECTING THE DRIVE FROM THE HUB
Using a 17mm wrench, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
After this, unscrew the hub nut and remove the Lada Kalina thrust washer.
Advice! To secure the axle shaft from possible rotation, you need to depress the brake pedal.
Then you need to turn the front wheels to their extreme position and remove the outer “grenade” from the hole in the hub. If the repair is carried out without assistants, first secure the drive axle shaft with wire to the car body to protect it from falling.
REMOVAL OF CV JOINT
Replacing the outer CV joint boot on a Kalina can be done directly on the car without disconnecting the axle shaft from the gearbox, which will avoid draining the transmission oil.
Unclench or cut off the clamps and move the rubber boot to the middle of the axle shaft. Then we dismantle the CV joint using a puller. You can do without it and carefully knock the hinge outward with a hammer through a wooden spacer. After this, remove the boot from the shaft.
DIAGNOSTICS OF CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINT
Since the outer CV joint has been removed, the old grease should be removed and washed with gasoline, kerosene or another product for subsequent assessment of the condition. If the part has signs of wear, chips, cracks or play, it will need to be replaced.
INSTALLING A NEW BOOT
First of all, we put a new boot on the axle shaft. To make replacement easier, you can lubricate the shaft with a small amount of grease. If the retaining ring was broken when removing the hinge, a new one should be installed in the groove of the axle shaft.
After this, a special lubricant is generously added to the CV joint, and its remains are applied inside the boot. "Grenade" ready for installation. Using gentle blows of a hammer on the shank of the CV joint through a wooden block, install the part onto the axle shaft until a characteristic click is heard.
Next, we put a protective boot and clamps on the hinge. We tighten one clamp and lightly squeeze the boot to remove air from it. Then fasten the second clamp on the other side. The boot replacement is complete.
Important! The clamps must be installed with the outer end in the direction opposite to the rotation of the shaft when the vehicle moves forward.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Further work is performed in the reverse order: you need to insert the hinge into the hole in the hub, install the lock washer and secure it with a nut. After this, the ball joint is screwed on, the wheel is installed, and the car is lowered from the jack.
Warning! Do not reuse the removed hub nut. After completing the repair work, you need to carefully tighten and lock the new Lada Kalina hub fasteners.
Let's get to work. Dismantling the CV joint
First of all, put the car on the handbrake (or install anti-rollbacks). Then we remove the wheel bolts and hub nut. The latter may not be supplied, so we use an extension cord. Next, place the car on a jack, lift its front part and remove the wheel. Then we find two bolts that secure the grenade to the steering knuckle.
Now we twist the steering wheel to its extreme position (so that the disc looks out of the wheel arch). Pull back the steering knuckle along with the shock absorber strut. Next, remove the outer part of the hub with the external “grenade”. If it is tight, you can use a hammer. But you need to hit through a wooden block, otherwise the part will be seriously damaged.
Next (if it is an external hinge) remove the old boot and clamp. Now you need to get the “grenade” itself out of the hub. To do this, you can use a puller or hit the CV joint with a hammer. In this case, you need to rotate its axle shafts.
If it is intended to replace the internal “grenade” on the Kalina, all operations are carried out in a similar way. The only thing is that the part is removed from the box using a pry bar, without hitting it with a hammer.
Installation of spare parts
Replacing the CV joint on a Kalina car is done as follows:
- A protective cover is put on the axle. To make work easier, the axle can be treated with lubricant.
- Lubricant is placed in the hinge.
- Lubricant is added inside the protective cover.
- With gentle blows using a wooden block, the grenade is mounted on the axle shaft.
- When the installation of the CV joint is completed, air is removed from the protective cover and fastening is carried out using clamps.
- The steering knuckle is mounted, the hub nut is fixed, and the wheel is mounted in place.
- All fasteners are securely tightened and the car is removed from the jack.
Replacing the outer CV joint
In the process of replacing the outer CV joint
The work of replacing an outer or inner CV joint is not very difficult and can be done by any motorist who has at least once repaired a car with his own hands. And in order for the repair to be easier and faster, you need to prepare the following tools:
- Socket heads for “17” and “30”.
- Driver or ratchet.
- Extension for the wrench.
- Jack.
- Wheel chocks.
- Hammer.
- Vise.
Step-by-step disassembly procedure
After you are convinced of the malfunction of one or another CV joint, you can begin to work.
- First of all, we tear off the mounting bolts from the wheel and the hub nut, then we set the wheel chocks under the rear wheels. (To make it easier to tear off the nuts, it is better to use an extension for the wrench - approx.).
- We put the car on a jack and hang the wheel.
- We remove the wheel and, for greater reliability, place it under the car next to the jack.
- Now that this picture appears before you, all that remains is to unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Replacing the CV joint on Kalina with your own hands
The main cause of malfunction of CV joints (constant velocity joint) on Kalina is the depressurization of the CV joint boots. Initially, incorrectly installed anthers, or rather loosely tightened clamps and leaky or worn out anthers, do not provide a normal seal to the assembly. Water and dirt begin to get under them. Gradually, the lubricant turns into a rusty mess and ceases to perform its functions. The first sign of a faulty CV joint is a crunching sound in the area of the front wheel when the wheels are turned out when starting to move. In more advanced cases, such a crunch appears with less pronounced loads on the wheel.
Replacing the outer CV joint
Replacing the outer CV joint on a Lada Kalina car is not a serious problem. A person who has at least a minimal understanding of car repairs with their own hands can cope with this operation.
To replace the outer CV joint you will need:
- Ratchet or crank
- Extension for extending a wrench or ratchet (a piece of pipe of suitable diameter will do)
- Head 17
- Head 30
- Hammer
- Jack
First you need to hang the wheel. Before putting the car on a jack, you need to remove the wheel bolts and the wheel nut. Using a wrench and a 30mm socket, we tear off the hub nut. To do this, it is better to extend the knob (for example, with a metal pipe of a suitable diameter). We unscrew the wheel bolts with a spray bottle. After we remove the wheel and nut, the following picture appears before us:
Now you need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. They are unscrewed using a ratchet or a wrench and a 17mm socket.
How to remove CV joint
In order to conduct a more detailed inspection of the mechanism and identify the exact cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to disconnect the entire structure from the car. A hole or a fairly high overpass is best suited for this. After preparing the repair site, the following steps are performed:
- all fastening bolts are unscrewed;
- The CV joint is removed from its seat;
- using a large screwdriver or pry bar, the hinge is removed from its seat;
- the hinge is disconnected from the shaft; to do this, the retaining ring and clamps are unfastened;
- the anther turns to the side or moves away;
- the hinge is removed with a hammer; as a rule, this cannot be done by hand;
- The CV joint is thoroughly washed with warm water.
Preventing grenade malfunction
Under normal conditions, these joints travel over 300 thousand km. Having a reliable design, the CV joint is able to withstand serious loads, but not in the presence of sand and dust. It is enough to burst the rubber of the protective cover, and the lubricant, mixed with dirt, will turn into a thick abrasive paste, which will inevitably undermine the health of the mechanism. Thus, it is necessary to periodically carry out external inspection of grenades in order to promptly detect damage to the anthers. At the first hint of a leak in the seal, repair and replacement should be carried out.
With torn rubber, a grenade can certainly drive for some time, but the longer repairs are delayed, the more expensive it will have to pay. Even if you change the grenade yourself, the cost of repairs will reach 3 thousand rubles, and there are several such units on the car.
Diagnosis of the condition of anthers
To check the serviceability of the car's boots, an external inspection is carried out and the condition of the front suspension components is diagnosed.
If there is no damage to the upper shell, there will be no traces of lubricant leaks on the surface of the boot and the car can continue to be operated in the same mode. It is advisable to carry out diagnostics regularly, which allows timely prevention of premature failure of CV joint mechanisms. When the vehicle accelerates rapidly, extraneous noise may occur in the front wheel sector, which may indicate an internal malfunction in the suspension components and require urgent diagnosis and repair with replacement of faulty parts.
Some of the main reasons for the failure of CV joint elements are:
- poor-quality lubrication or lack thereof due to boot failure;
- the presence of defective parts in the CV joint mechanism, as a result of which the seal of the boot is compromised;
- potholes and pits that form on the roadway, which leads to damage to the protection of the mechanisms and suspension elements of the car;
- energetic driving style, which leads to increased load and premature failure of units;
- destruction or violation of the tightness of the anthers during vehicle operation.
Video about replacing a grenade boot:
Signs of CV joint failure
The first signs of a faulty grenade are crunching sounds in the area of the front wheel on turned out wheels when starting to move. When the fault is severe, noise appears at less significant loads.
The anther begins to “repair”
In order to prevent such damage in advance, you should periodically inspect the anthers from the outside for cracks and integrity in general.
Driving type
It has been noticed that aggressive driving can finish off grenades much earlier than the allotted time. If careful drivers sometimes have grenade boots that last for 15 years, then a reckless driver will have to repair the unit after only 3 years. The service life of hinges and anthers can only be extended by periodic visual monitoring of the condition of the protective covers, as well as a quiet ride.
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Gearbox lever rattling
For LADA Kalina, a typical malfunction is rattling in the area of the gearshift lever, which mainly becomes noticeable when the engine is running at speeds of about 3000. The source of the side sound is the bushing, which is made a little thicker than necessary, and because of this, a gap appears in the mount. To resolve this problem you need to do the following:
- remove the handle cover, which is attached with latches;
- using two 13mm wrenches, unscrew the nut and bolt;
- remove washers and bushings;
- to eliminate rattling, the bushing in the middle needs to be slightly sharpened in width or the mount should be lubricated with sealant;
- Having done this, mount everything back. The sealant does not help out every time, but if you sharpen the bushing by 0.3 mm, the result is guaranteed.
It’s safe to say that repairing a Lada Kalina car yourself is not so scary. Every car enthusiast has the opportunity to eliminate minor malfunctions of this car. You just need to believe in yourself, follow our advice and everything will work out!
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