Which oil filter is better to install on the fret grant?

The durability and reliability of most components in a car directly depends on the quality of the components and consumables used. Therefore, these components require timely diagnosis and replacement.

In a modern Lada Granta engine, version 8 or 16 valve, such a thing as an oil filter is endowed with very significant functions:

  • ensure oil purification, thereby minimizing friction in mating parts;
  • facilitate the operation of the unit due to the exclusion of foreign particles from the liquid.

Among the many available on the market, it is difficult to choose an oil filter, but you should tend to purchase those that are noted by the owners as the most reliable.

The process of changing the oil and oil filter on a Lada Granta on an 8 and 16 valve engine

Before you start changing the oil, you need to buy the right oil, we talked about it a little earlier, as well as an oil filter.
The same filter is suitable for the Lada Granta as for the Priora, the tenth family and even the “classic”. The continuity of AvtoVAZ is obvious here. Let's say with catalog number 21050-1012005-82. As you noticed, such filters have been used on cars since 1982, starting with the VAZ-2105... It is also necessary to say something about warming up the engine. This is a must, especially during the cold season. By warming up the engine, you will improve the fluidity of the oil, reduce its viscosity, which means that more waste oil will drain from the engine crankcase. So, we warm up the engine, it is best if the replacement is carried out after some trip. You can proceed directly to changing the oil. Unscrew the plug on the filler neck. This is necessary so that the oil flows down better. Next we go down into the viewing hole. By the way, it is better to change the oil on it, or on a lift. You can change the oil without a pit and a lift, but this is if you are gutta-percha and not obese. Unscrew the plug on the crankcase with a 17 mm wrench. It should be noted here that the plug protrudes from the crankcase slightly, and at the factory or in the service center it is tightened “from the heart.” As a result, when it’s time to change the oil, unscrewing the drain plug can be very problematic. They use a wrench with a pipe and a wrench and everything that is possible. That is why, to unscrew, use a spanner or a socket, but not an open-end wrench, so as not to tear off the edges. As soon as the plug starts to unscrew by hand, we place a container under it, about 5 liters, and unscrew it completely. The total oil volume in the Lada Granta engine is 3.5 liters. We begin to drain the oil from the engine.

Be careful, as here you can not only get dirty, but get burned. The oil temperature can be quite high. Now you need to unscrew the oil filter.

(oil filter - bottom view. It is better to unscrew from the top)

It is best to use a chain wrench or a clamp wrench.

If this is not the case, then you can pierce the filter with a screwdriver and unscrew it, turning the filter by its handle. It is unlikely to be possible to unscrew the oil filter by hand. Now we wait for the used oil to drain. The bigger, the better. If you have time and opportunity, you can go have some tea. Next, we begin to prepare everything for pouring fresh oil into the Lada Granta engine. We tighten the drain plug. As we already mentioned, you shouldn’t tighten it with all your might. 2-3 kg per meter is more than enough torque. If we talk about the gasket, which is often installed under the plug, then it can be changed or not. It will most likely last 5-7 times. The oil filter also needs to be prepared before installation. It must be filled with oil and the rubber seal lubricated.

This is necessary so that the system does not become aired, and so that the filter can be more easily screwed onto the engine by lubricating the gasket. Pour engine oil through the filler neck.

We talked about recommended motor oils for Lada Granta at the very beginning of the article. We control the volume of oil being poured using the dipstick, pulling it out from time to time and making sure that the oil is between the “min” and “max” marks.

The volume of engine oil in the engine is about 3.5 liters, but in reality you will fill in a little less, since some of the “old” oil will not be drained. After the oil is poured, tighten the plug on the filler neck. We start the engine and make sure the oil pressure light goes out as usual. Then we turn off the engine and check the oil level in the engine again, topping up if necessary. That's essentially all. Now you know how to change the oil in a Lada Granta engine with your own hands. I would like to say a few words about ecology. When changing the oil, try to ensure that the oil does not spread on the ground, and use used oil for technical needs, and do not simply dispose of it by pouring it into the ground.

The durability and reliability of most components in a car directly depends on the quality of the components and consumables used. Therefore, these components require timely diagnosis and replacement.

In a modern Lada Granta engine, version 8 or 16 valve, such a thing as an oil filter is endowed with very significant functions:

  • ensure oil purification, thereby minimizing friction in mating parts;
  • facilitate the operation of the unit due to the exclusion of foreign particles from the liquid.

Among the many available on the market, it is difficult to choose an oil filter, but you should tend to purchase those that are noted by the owners as the most reliable.

Fuel filter location

You can find the gas filter on the Lada Granta under the bottom - in the same place where the gas tank is located. Since the TF is part of the fuel line, it is secured near the gas tank with special latches. Due to its location, any manipulations with it must be carried out after lifting the car on an overpass, jack, or driving it into the inspection hole.


The Lada Granta fuel filter is located under the bottom of the car on the gas tank side

What oil is better to fill in the 8-valve Lada Granta engine

Characteristics of the engine oil filter
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Choosing a good oil for the 8-valve Lada Granta engine

A little about the engine

The Lada Granta is equipped with engines that are exactly the same as those on the Priora and Kalina. Therefore, when choosing oil, you can be guided by the advice of these car owners.

There are three 8-valve engines on the Lada Granta: 82 hp. (index 11183, valves do not bend) and 87 hp. (index 11186, 21116, valve bending).

Engine 11183 (82 hp)

Engine 21116 (87 hp)

Choosing engine oil wisely

When choosing an oil, the most important thing is not to make a mistake and select it strictly according to the manufacturer’s specifications. The picture below shows the factory's recommendations (excerpt from the service book).

Engine oil table (first sheet)

Engine oil table (second sheet)

The first thing that catches your eye is the absence of Castrol, ZIC and other famous manufacturers.

Why? They didn't pay for advertising? By the way, for a 16-valve engine, which is not discussed in this article, the instruction manual for the Lada Priora car contains these oils.

By the way, many car owners try to fill in the oil that was filled in from the factory.

Opinion of Grantovodov

What do the owners of this car themselves think?

Opinions were divided. Some still do not trust the domestic manufacturer, while others, on the contrary, are inclined to believe that there is no need to overpay for a foreign brand. Opinions about the choice of oil were divided even among owners of 16-valve engines.

Let us only note that we have never seen Novoil Super oil from BashNeft or TatNeft Synthetic from TatNeft on sale, although we asked at their gas stations in our city.

There should be no problems with purchasing other domestic oils; they are presented in most auto stores and are in demand due to their low cost.

List of motor oils with reviews

MOBIL SUPER 3000 5W40

Completely satisfied, practically no oil consumption.

Good oil, practically no consumption, the engine runs smoothly and without problems. There is at least some kind of guarantee when purchasing at Lukoil branded gas stations.

ESSO Ultron 5W40 (synthetic)

When I bought it, they were afraid that the engine seals would be squeezed out. But I had poured the same oil into classics before, there were no problems, the mileage was more than 150 thousand km without capital, the engine practically did not take oil. In winter, it will be easier for the engine to start in cold weather. I change it every 10 thousand km.

Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 (semi-synthetic)

Good oil. This is not the first time I have used it in my car, there have been no problems. I buy from a specialized SHELL car oil store.

ELF 10W-40 (semi-synthetic)

I use the same oil, only synthetic, in my Renault company car, which already has over 200,000 km on it. It’s not for nothing that Renault recommends only this, a good oil.

ELF Competition STI 10W-40

Good oil. I filled it up immediately at the first zero maintenance, there were no problems with the engine, the mileage is more than 70 thousand kilometers. I recommend.

I sell oils, I can say that Castrol is now the very first in the ranking for fakes. If you buy a good one, then it will not cause you problems, if it is a fake, then at least it will burn out, at most, you will shorten the service life of your engine. If Castrol, then synthetics are better!

Synthetic or semi-synthetic

Currently there is a very extensive selection of oils

The manufacturer recommends only semi-synthetics. However, some car owners use synthetic oil, since it makes it easier for the engine to start in severe frost.

Pros of synthetic oil

  1. they are less affected by changes in external temperature;
  2. they have better fluidity at low temperatures; the lower the temperature, the better this ratio is compared to semi-synthetics;
  3. they have fewer additives in their composition, since most additives are synthesized at the time of production;
  4. Since the oil is completely synthetic, it was possible to achieve better anti-friction properties.
  5. due to better lubricating properties, friction is reduced, due to this the engine life should increase and fuel consumption should decrease.

Even though synthetic oil has better consumer qualities, it is still necessary to carefully monitor engine operation (vibration, speed, operating temperature (by the way, what is the operating temperature of an 8-valve engine?).

If you are interested in this issue, be sure to look below.

https://carfrance.ru

Design features of the “air filtration system” of 8 and 16 valve engines

What kind of oil to pour in Lada Grant 8 valves

The air supply elements in the 8 and 16 valve engines of the Lada Granta do not have any special design differences. Therefore, we will look at the process of replacing the air filter using the example of an 8-valve engine 21116.

Of all the tools we need, we will need moderately straight hands and a crosswise screwdriver. Difficulty: minimal. But the result can exceed all expectations. A clogged filter may result in loss of power and increased fuel consumption (factory fuel consumption data).

Replacement process with photo

  1. Open the hood. The air filter housing is circled in red.
  2. Remove the terminal from the MAF connector. You don’t have to remove it, but it’s more difficult. Disconnect
  3. We take a screwdriver in our hands and unscrew the 4 bolts securing the air filter housing. These bolts must be unscrewed
  4. We remove the old filter.Old filter
  5. We clean the filter housing from the inside; most likely, there will be a lot of dust inside it, and there may also be dry leaves. You can use a damp cloth, just make sure that the lint does not remain in the filter housing after use.
  6. We install the new air filter in the same way as the old one.
  7. We assemble the body and screw back the 4 bolts. Screw everything back

Air filter life

The service life of the air filter is marked on its housing.

The service life of the air filter is 30,000 km.

This is the number indicated on the case. But it should be remembered that if the car is operated in poor external conditions, then this figure can be reduced. In this case, it is necessary to regularly check the cleanliness of the filter.

If you mainly drive on dirt roads, then replacement may be required after six or even five thousand kilometers. In desert areas the situation will be even more complicated.

Part numbers

There should be no problems purchasing an air filter. They are available in any self-respecting auto store. But just in case, we will write a couple of proven articles.

GB-9597 E4 - Big Filter - (146 rubles in total in the autodoc) One of the cheapest filters

Working principle of the air filter

Left - old, right - new air filter

Air intake usually occurs from outside the vehicle.

And, given that the conditions outside can be very different, sand, dust, pieces of asphalt and even pollen can get inside with the air.

All these inclusions do not allow the engine to operate properly. So, on the way from the air intake to the engine there is an air filter in which these particles are retained.

Most often, so-called dry air filters are used, which have the structure of a regular paper cartridge. As the practice of the automotive industry has shown, it is this filter format that has the best ratio of cost and degree of purification.

Air filter devices

The design of such a filter requires the presence of a plastic casing in which the cartridge is located. It, in turn, includes a frame with a special sheet of paper folded like an accordion. The paper should have a pronounced porous structure. And additional processing of the paper allows us to talk about reliable protection against moisture, which can damage ordinary paper products. And the peculiarities of the interweaving of cellulose fibers are such that air can pass between them, but anything larger than microscopic sizes will be retained.

Injection car models, as a rule, use rectangular-shaped filters, while carburetor options use oval and round shapes. The box can last quite a long time, but the filter element itself needs to be changed regularly.

Which air filter to choose?

The dry paper filter option we already mentioned is standard for most machines. But, sometimes, alternative options may be used. We are talking about liquid-type models that use mineral oil to purify the air. Moreover, in order to save money, you can choose already used material for the role of oil.

The key advantage of such filters is that you can change the oil as soon as the old one becomes too dirty. But the disadvantage of such filters is that they have a large mass, so they should not be used on modern cars.

Zero resistance filter under the hood of Lada Granta

Separately on the list are “zero resistance” filters, which have a special structure, but are built on the same type of paper. They are used on cars with a sporty "bias". This can significantly increase the engine power.

Design of 8-valve engines

Key (puller) for oil filter. DIY and store bought

The 11186 engine and its predecessor 11183 do not differ in the location of the components, although their displacement is different. And for motor 21116 (details about the service life and characteristics of motor 21116 here) a separate drawing is provided here. All components related to the lubrication system will be marked on the drawings.

A special feature of the design is the operating temperature of the engine, which in winter does not rise above 80 degrees. The manufacturer (AvtoVAZ) does not consider this feature to be a malfunction. The official information letter is in the material: operating temperature of an 8-valve engine.

The numbers in the figures indicate the details:

  • Oil filler neck and plug – 7 (Fig. 1), 4 (Fig. 3);
  • Drain plug – 17 (Fig. 2), 10 (Fig. 4);
  • Oil filter – 14 (Fig. 2), 8 (Fig. 4);
  • Diagnostic probe – 5 (Fig. 1), 9 (Fig. 3);

Photos 1 and 2 correspond to motor 11183 (11186), photos 3 and 4 are a drawing of motor 21116.

Since motors 11186 and 21116 do not differ in power, the owner may not know which of the two motors was installed. Engine information is printed on a plate with a VIN code. It, in turn, is located above the left headlight.

Changing the oil and oil filter of the Lada Granta engine

We make an oil filter puller with our own hands. why pay? you can do everything yourself

km of car mileage.

Alexey Revin “Behind the Wheel”ExpertLada GrantaLada GrantaLADA > Granta

  1. Model reviewNewsArticlesTestsReviewsModificationsWe install the car on an inspection ditch or overpass. We change the oil with the engine not running, preferably immediately after the trip, before the oil has cooled down.

On a 16-valve engine, there is no access to the oil filter from above, so to replace the filter from below, you must remove the middle mudguard of the engine compartment. You can see how to do this work in the article “Replacing Lada Granta coolant.”

Original

Most car owners prefer to install only original components on their car, which were originally on the car when purchased. The following original oil filters are suitable for installation:

  • 21080-1012005-08;
  • 21050-1012005-00;
  • 21080-1012005-09;
  • 21080-1012005-00.

All of them are considered original and are installed on VAZ cars. Specifically, the Lada Granta is equipped with an oil purification filter, produced and sold under article number 21080101200508.

Do not forget that original components (even for Russian cars) are often counterfeited, so during the selection process it is important not to buy a fake. The quality of counterfeits leaves much to be desired; they will not be able to provide complete fuel purification and will quickly fail

Analogs

If you don’t want to overpay for a brand, then take a closer look at inexpensive analogues. They are not inferior to the original in terms of characteristics and perform all functions at the same high level. For example, the following brands are popular among car owners:

Namevendor codePrice, rub.)
GOODWILLOG-313 160160-180
FORTECHFO-018150-170
FILTRONOP643/3150-170
LOGEMLRT-32880-100
MECAFILTERELH4196100-130

Remember to carefully check the components you purchase. To avoid counterfeiting, contact only trusted sellers. Also, do not forget to check the appearance of the packaging and the product itself.

Check if there are any extraneous inscriptions or external defects on them. If you doubt the seller’s honesty, be sure to ask for certificates for the products sold and read them carefully.

Reviews

Ivan, Moscow, 25 years old: The original filter did not suit me, as it unexpectedly quickly fails - I refuel with inexpensive gasoline. Now I installed a Goodwill filter and am happy with everything, replacement is much cheaper, and the consumable itself lasts longer.

Daria, Tomsk, 31 years old: For several years now I have been installing only MF from Fortech on my car. The quality is excellent and the filters last longer than usual. The cost is higher than its analogues, but it suits me.

Alexey, Ufa, 29 years old: I recently changed filters for the first time and became interested in Logem brand products. because it was inexpensive. I've been using MF for several weeks now, the quality is amazing. Let's see how it behaves next.

Additional Information

When changing the oil, you will definitely need to change the oil filter. Naturally, the best option would be to install a “recommended” filter. However, as practice shows, even our domestic “Salyut” from Samara, which is produced for the VAZ-2108 model, can be used with exactly the same success.

"Oil fasting"

The filter replacement process itself will be standard. Just make sure that the oil from the filter does not get where it is not needed. But the new filter should be filled with fresh oil to approximately half. This must be done in several passes, since the viscous liquid does not penetrate through the holes very well.

Lubricate the oil filter

This “trick” is needed in order to prevent the so-called “oil starvation” of the engine in the first seconds after it is started. In addition, it would not be amiss to lubricate the rubber o-ring associated with this filter with the same oil.

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Oil level

The 16-valve engine is quite sensitive to oil level.

For example, if there is too much of it (above the maximum mark on the dipstick), then there is a fairly high risk of failure of the catalyst, as well as the sensor that controls the mass air flow. To avoid mistakes, the reflected light control technique is used, since the color of the oil will be close to transparent.

Can I use synthetic oil?

The 16-valve Lada Priora engine is famous for its ability to accept various types of oil well. In addition to semi-synthetics, which is considered the standard, synthetic motor oil also performs well. It is designed for modern 16-valve engines, so there will be no problems with leaking oil seals or burnout. In addition, this oil works well even in severe frost conditions. The engine will start at temperatures lower than those recommended by the manufacturer.

How to unscrew it if it's stuck?

I’ll tell you a few ways that will 100% help you unscrew this element, so here we go:

Trite with your hands. Often you just don’t have enough strength, just call a “more powerful” person and everything can work out. I will say this in 80% of cases they unscrew it by hand. YES, and you need to tighten it again with your hands, tightly! IT'S ENOUGH!

Special key. I already wrote about it once, you can, of course, it’s not always at hand, but if you have a friend with a car, he can drive to almost any spare parts store and buy it. I personally even saw it in several supermarkets, the cost is a penny, about 200 - 300 rubles. Everything with it is quite easy and simple, we hook it on and unscrew it, of course, the body of the element will get wrinkled, but actually we don’t need it anymore.

Rope and screwdriver (another lever). Sometimes they also use an old alternator or timing belt. What we do is twist a loop around the filter, tighten it with a screwdriver, tightly. And we try to unscrew it. The main thing is that the rope or belt does not slip.

A hammer and a long, strong screwdriver. Actually, this method is used to unscrew most intractable filter elements. Since the walls of the element are soft, they are usually aluminum, or tin, and other soft metals. It breaks through very easily (just like a tin can). What we do is drive a long and strong screwdriver all the way through, that is, so that it goes in on one side and comes out on the other. And then we unscrew it like a lever. The most important thing is that everything can be done without a special key, and actually using the tools that are always in the garage. The only downside is that your hands are dirty, because some of the oil is always inside.

Hammer and chisel. This is generally the method that they say “ATAS”, there is nothing to explain here, we take a chisel and “fuck” it with a hammer, the most important thing is to hit closer to the bottom, to the place of fastening, and counterclockwise. The case, of course, will be all dented, but the most important thing is to unscrew it. The downside here is not only that you can get dirty, but also that you can hit the engine block with a chisel. I personally recommend the method with a screwdriver, it is still less dangerous.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, you can do without a special key, just pierce the housing with a screwdriver.

Changing the oil on a Grant is a simple process, but dirty. If there is a hole or lift, it can be done in 20-30 minutes. The main thing is to get a filter remover and know the procedure. Let's look at everything step by step.

Changing engine oil on a Lada Granta

Engine oil is a very important part that ensures high-quality operation of the unit for a long time; you should never delay replacing it. Many car services charge quite a lot of money for such a service, so today we will tell you how to replace it yourself.

How to change engine oil?

The plant regulates engine oil changes every 15,000 kilometers. In the opinion of the author of this article, this is too long a period of time, even for modern oils, especially when adjusted for the climatic norms of the regions of Russia and the CIS countries. Determine for yourself the oil change period in which mode you travel most often. If you often get stuck in traffic jams, operate the car in too hot and dry weather, or vice versa in severe frost, then the replacement period should be 7-8 thousand kilometers. For cars in the middle zone, where winters are relatively mild and summers are not particularly hot, a replacement period every 10 thousand is suitable. Our service will help you find various interesting, original online gambling games on the Internet. We will leave a link to https://casinoslots.com.ua/ so that you can quickly go to this site and play exciting slots. This virtual resource provides comfortable service conditions for gambling fans from different countries.

If you don’t know which oil to choose, you can refer to the list of motor oils certified by the manufacturer for Lada Granta.

We perform an oil change with the engine not running and warmed up; the oil must be hot. We drive the car onto an overpass or inspection hole, go down under the car and use a 17mm spanner to unscrew the drain plug, first placing a waste oil container with a volume of at least 4 liters under the drain hole. If you have a non-factory crankcase protection installed, you will need to dismantle it. Be careful, the oil is hot!

The engine oil must be drained for at least 10 minutes. To speed up the process, remove the dipstick and unscrew the oil filler plug. On many cars, the drain plug has a copper washer that acts as a thread seal; Granta uses a slightly different sealing method; the drain bolt has a conical shape, sealing the hole due to its shape. You need to tighten it with moderate force, excessive load is unnecessary, and in the future there may be problems with unscrewing it.

After draining the oil, we will need to replace the oil filter. It is located on the rear of the engine, on the engine shield side. In most cases, it simply unscrews by hand, but if you can’t turn it, use special pullers for oil filters, or a regular leather belt that needs to be wrapped around the filter.

After dismantling the oil filter, you need to clean the seat from traces of the old gasket, and, having lubricated the new filter with fresh engine oil, screw it into place by hand until the sealing ring comes into contact with the cylinder block.

We tighten the oil drain plug on the crankcase, insert the dipstick into place and fill the crankcase with 3.2 liters of oil (if you have a manual traction gearbox), 2.2 liters of oil (if you have a manual gearbox with a cable drive) or 4.1 liters (if you have a 4-speed . automatic transmission). We tighten the filler plug and start the engine for a few minutes. We make sure that the low oil pressure lamp on the instrument panel does not light up and that there are no oil leaks in the area of ​​the drain plug and oil filter. We stop the engine, let the oil drain a little and check the level with a dipstick. It should be between the minimum and maximum marks.

This completes the oil change.

Let's warm up the engine!

  1. Armed with a key, unscrew the drain plug on the engine sump (but not completely).
  2. We place a suitable container under the hole and now remove the plug completely. We unscrew the filler plug, which is located on the valve cover. Drain the oil, waiting until it completely flows out spontaneously (after the drops have disappeared).
  3. Screw the plug on the pallet.
  4. Unscrew the old filter. If he’s “stuck”, then we use proven methods:
  • with a screwdriver (we pierce the body and rotate it like a lever);
  • a piece of sandpaper appropriate for the size of the filter housing;
  • special puller (purchased), etc.
  1. Clean the seat for the filter on the mating surface of the motor with a rag.
  2. We fill the new filter with oil to impregnate the internal element (manipulation prevents short-term oil starvation of the system during startup);
  3. We wind up a new “consumable”.
  4. Make sure that the drain plug is tight (don’t forget about the new sealing washer - install it to replace the old one).
  5. Fill in new lubricant in the required volume (do not exceed the level - there is a risk of damage to the seals);
  6. We screw the plug on the filler neck, start the Lada Granta engine and observe.

The monitoring process is necessary for the following purposes:

  • make sure there are no oil leaks through the new filter (if there is one, “press” the element by tightening it);
  • make sure that the filter is suitable and the LADA Granta lubrication system is functioning normally (this is indicated by the lamp on the dashboard going out after 4-5 seconds).

How to choose the right filter element for Granta?

Which filter is better is difficult to figure out the first time

During the tedious process of choosing a given “consumable”, you should pay attention to its features, the main ones of which are its geometric parameters. A large army of owners are puzzled by the estimated resource of the element indicated in the article - the oil filter

Regardless of the quality aspects of this product, it should be replaced at least after 5-7 thousand km of travel. In the opposite situation, it will become impossible to “vouch” for the safety and durability of the internal components of the motor.

To avoid mistakes with selection and subsequent replacement, you should carefully prepare. It is not recommended to forget about the “golden” rule: the lower the quality of the oil used, the sooner the oil filter will lose its condition. In view of the above, you should resort to purchasing and filling only high-quality oils from global manufacturing brands applicable to Lada Granta engines.

If you are wondering which filter to choose, then, armed with reviews from owners, you should consider the following options:

  • “UNICO FILTER LI” (the filter has won praise from the majority of “Grantavods”);
  • "MANN-FILTER W" (balanced product, but the price is steep);
  • options with a more affordable price: “FIL FILTER ZP” or “PUROLATOR L”.

When making a purchase, we focus on the engine size and the operational requirements for a particular “consumable”.

Oil filter design

A modern housing oil filter (a number of cars also use cartridge ones - during maintenance, only the paper filter element itself is replaced) consists of the following components:

Frame. This is a metal cylinder with a rolled lid, which contains a threaded seat (also known as the filtered oil outlet) and holes for the oil supply. For a particular car, two geometric parameters are important: the type of thread (metric 20x1.5 on most cars, on some, in particular VAZ, inch ¾ UNF) and the diameter of the sealing ring, which must clearly fit on the mating plane of the crankcase

Filter heights may vary between manufacturers, and in most cases it is better to choose a larger oil filter: this means that it has a larger filter element, which will provide less resistance (this is especially important during cold starts, when the oil viscosity increases) and less pollution rate. But you also need to take into account the design of a particular car - a long filter may simply not fit in the engine compartment, rest against the pipes, and so on.

Filter element

This is corrugated paper with a specified pore size (usually several tens of microns), through which oil is pumped. The filter resistance and cleaning quality depend on the area of ​​the filter element and its porosity. Thicker paper is the choice of motorists using low-viscosity (5W30, 0W20) synthetic motor oils; for cars running on thicker oils, less resistance is required - hence either a decrease in filtration quality or the need to increase the size of the filter element. Indeed, on many modern passenger cars the oil filter is several times smaller than the classic Zhiguli filter - with the same filtration quality, there is no need to create large-sized filters.

The bypass valve serves to protect the filter element from destruction - when the pressure difference between before and after the filter increases, it is activated, allowing oil to bypass to avoid filter destruction. Calibration of the bypass valve is always a compromise: one that is too soft will open too early, opening the way for uncleaned oil at every cold start; one that is too hard under the same conditions can cause the filter element curtain to rupture. Calibration is set according to the characteristics of a particular engine, including the viscosity of the engine oil recommended by the manufacturer.

The anti-drain valve can be seen through the oil inlet holes. This is a flexible rubber curtain that prevents oil from flowing back into the crankcase after stopping the engine. This reduces the time required to build up pressure in the system when starting the engine. A leaky anti-drainage valve will noticeably increase oil starvation after overnight parking; a too tight one will increase the overall filter resistance.

To increase the service life of the oil filter, a number of manufacturers introduce an additional coarse filter into its design. Usually it plays the role of a magnet, designed to retain metal dust that inevitably forms when the engine wears out. But is it really necessary? For a new engine running on high-quality motor oil, the rate of mechanical wear will be negligible, and there is no need for additional metal separation. A worn-out engine, especially one that has been repaired several times using cheap, low-quality spare parts, will need it much more.

In this rating, we practically did not use the usual combination of requirements for the ratio of price and quality (with the possible exception of the original filter, but it stood out too noticeably from the general series). In the end, the cost of a filter makes up an extremely small share of the total cost of an oil change, and its high-quality operation over 10-15 thousand mileage means much longer. Taking into account the features specified in the description of the products presented, you will be able to make the best choice.

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How to choose the right cabin filter

Autoreview experts tested 10 cabin filters in the Lefortovo tunnel and laboratory. They recommend following the following rules when choosing a cabin filter:

  1. Buy a cabin filter only with the original article number.
  2. The less the filter deforms in your hands, the better: the lower the likelihood of incorrect installation.
  3. The filter material must have a laminated coating on the side facing the fan so that fluff from the filter does not enter the ventilation system.
  4. The filter must be marked with the direction of air flow.
  5. The carbon filter does not necessarily have to be sealed in polyethylene: activated carbon “works” only with air circulation, which is virtually excluded inside the box lying in a warehouse or store.
  6. When the size of the box is much larger than the filter itself, this is not evidence of a fake. Many manufacturers prefer to save on packaging in this way: due to a smaller number of standard box sizes.
  7. The carbon filter must be selected by weight: a heavier one should be preferred - it contains more activated carbon.

Test results of ten cabin filters

:

Some test results for cabin filters according to ISO/TS 11155-1
FilterFlow velocity from deflectors, m/sFlow resistance, PaFiltration efficiency, %Dust capacity, g
TSN4,091461,718,3
Bosch4,132679,742,6
Delphi3,962878,937,3
Filtron4,122778,927
Mahle4,053279,947,2
Mann4,153379,946,8
RAF3,971848,721,5
Valeo42558,327,5
Volkswagen (coal)3,992779,340,7
Volkswagen (dust)4,091879,327
Some test results of cabin filters in the Lefortovo tunnel
FilterFilter weight, gHydrocarbons (methane-hexane), mg/m³Nitrogen dioxide, mg/m³Alcohols (isopropanol), mg/m³
TSN98,22,950,1111350
Bosch308,71,420,001424
Delphi226,61,450,036952
Filtron146,73,030,059800
Mahle290,61,570,004340
Mann306,21,610,004532
RAF164,43,190,0871143
Valeo157,71,430,035630
Volkswagen (coal)263,71,410,008763
Volkswagen (dust)81,93,040,11300
Used filter (Mann)328,43,130,019704
Without a filter3,210,1341378

Bold

The filters that turned out to be better than others are highlighted.

As a result, experts came to the conclusion

that a regular (dust filter) filter saves on your own health. But activated carbon can soften the blow to your health from inhaling nitrogen dioxide and unburned hydrocarbons.

Keywords: Lada Kalina filters | Lada Granta filters | air conditioner Lada Kalina | air conditioner Lada Granta | Lada Kalina stove | Lada Granta stove

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Preparing to change engine oil

A prerequisite is to warm up the car - the result from the replacement will be better. We find an inspection hole or overpass, prepare replacement oil and a new filter.

What you will need for work:

  1. New oil;
  2. Container for draining waste (at least 4 liters);
  3. Hexagon 12 for unscrewing the drain plug;
  4. Oil filter puller;
  5. New filter;
  6. If you plan to replace with flushing, use a canister of flushing oil.

Working with a lift will give full access to the drain neck and filter from below.

How to change oil on an 8 valve Grant

So, the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, the car is in the pit, the tools are at hand. How to change oil without flushing:

  • Open the hood, remove the oil filler cap;
  • We climb under the car: if the crankcase is covered with protection or a factory metal sheet, we dismantle it;
  • we find the drain neck on the engine, place an empty container under it;
  • Using a 12mm hexagon (or a 17mm wrench - depending on the type of plug) we begin to unscrew the drain plug. Please note that hot waste will flow from underneath it - at the end, sharply move your hand with the plug to the side so that it does not flood;
  • After removing the plug, leave the car for 5-10 minutes so that everything is glassed;

If the car does not “eat” oil and there are no obvious leaks on the internal combustion engine, about 3 liters should drain.

We climb under the car again:

  • Use a puller to unscrew the oil filter. Keep in mind that it will also leak! Not much, but it will be;
  • Fill the new filter halfway with oil and wipe it around the perimeter of the seal;

Rubbing the ring will help it fit more tightly to the attachment point.

Preparing the installation site:

  • We clean the place where the filter is attached from dirt, sealant residues, etc.;
  • We install it in place. As soon as it starts to spin with force, tighten it three-quarters of a turn.

When tightening the filter there is a danger of overtightening. This may cause the edge to crack and oil to leak out.

  • tighten the drain cap! Otherwise, new oil will drain from the engine.
  • Fill with -3.2 liters;
  • We close the filler neck, wait a few minutes and check the level on the dipstick - ideally the mark will be between MIN and MAX.
  • According to the manual, the Granta with manual transmission includes 3.2 liters; Automatic transmission - 4.4 liters.

The oil level should be read around the indicated mark.

The last thing is to start the car. The oil pressure indicator may come on for a few seconds after starting the engine.

If it goes out, everything is fine. If not, turn off the car and check the level.

Don’t forget to check that the sensor is working - when you turn on the ignition, its indication on the panel lights up and immediately goes out.

Features of changing the oil on Lada 16 cl.

The whole process is identical to the one described above.

The only difference is that you can remove the filter on a 16-valve engine only from below after dismantling the factory (or additional) crankcase protection - if it does not have a window for such work.

Replacing the VAZ 2190 oil filter

AvtoVAZ and common sense advise changing the filter element with every oil change. To independently search and order this part online, use the following articles:

Oil filter article for Granta

21050101200500 21080101200500

21080101200508

21080101200509

How to choose a filter

One of the most popular brands of filters for Lada is Mann. Accordingly, fakes are often found. Let's look at the features of the original part.

The reputation of a reliable brand has led to frequent counterfeits of Mann parts.

The original differs as follows:

  1. Laser marking of the part number on the body is dotted, barely visible in the light;
  2. The body is blue – matte – NOT glossy;
  3. Has stickers on the body and packaging indicating PCT compliance;
  4. Made in Germany - no Germany or anything else - there must be the inscription MadeinGermany;
  5. The O-ring has three yellow stripes.

You can protect yourself from counterfeit products by purchasing a filter from authorized dealers. They take only original spare parts for service stations.

Replacement with flushing

Sometimes replacement with flushing is required - using flushing oil. Most often this is required when switching from one type to another. For example, we poured semi-synthetic, but decided to pour synthetic.

For washing:

  • After draining the waste, screw in the drain plug;
  • We don’t remove the oil filter, it’s still old;
  • fill the rinse in the required volume;
  • close the filler cap and start the car;
  • we drive the car out of the garage and leave it running for 10 minutes - DO NOT leave the car running in the garage - this is dangerous;
  • we drive it back, turn it off;
  • unscrew the drain plug and drain all the flushing;
  • further - from the moment of filter replacement - as described above.

The rinse contains special cleaning additives. It cannot be used on an ongoing basis - it is designed for short-term use.

General issues

Let's consider general philistine questions about Granta and butter.

How to check the oil level in Grant

We check the level classically;

  1. The car must be turned off for at least 5-10 minutes;
  2. We take out the oil dipstick, wipe it with a rag and put it back;
  3. We take it out and look at the light - the level should be between MIN and MAX.

The dipsticks on the Lada suffer from the fact that they are difficult to read. You may need to wipe and lower the dipstick again.

If the dipstick is very difficult to read, you can go through the area indicating the level with fine sandpaper. This matting shows the oil level more clearly.

When to change the oil of a VAZ 2190

According to the regulations, replacement on the Grant is required every 15,000 kilometers. Practical experience suggests replacement every 10,000 km. mileage, or once/twice a year.


The Grants are stuffed with Rosneft from the factory. The brand has not proven itself to be reliable and of high quality.

The first replacement occurs after the new car has been broken in - after 2000 km. This is not a requirement from the factory, but common sense - change the flooded s to something normal.

When replacement is required

In order to change consumable components on time, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations of the vehicle manufacturer. They always provide for certain regulations for the performance of each maintenance-related work. According to the regulations for the Lada Grant, the filter element and lubricant in the system are replaced every 15 thousand kilometers.

During daily operation, the driver is required to monitor the lubricant level in the engine. The check is carried out before the start of the trip, but it is enough to do it once every few days. If the engine has just been running, it should be allowed to stand for a few minutes so that the lubricant can drain into the crankcase. Now the driver takes out the dipstick and wipes it with an unnecessary rag. The probe is inserted into its hole until it stops, and then removed again. The oil film level should be between the minimum and maximum marks on the dipstick.

The main sign that indicates that the engine lubricant needs to be changed is its color. A very black liquid no longer has the characteristics necessary for optimal operation of the power unit. Lada Granta is not as demanding on the frequency of replacement as foreign-made cars, and allows you to change the lubricant after 15,000 km. Along with it, a new oil filter is installed. However, even if the car has not covered the required mileage, it is better to perform this procedure before the onset of winter.

Oil aging leads to a decrease in its performance. Oxidation processes begin and useful additives are gradually washed out. Over time, dirt begins to accumulate in it. The purpose of motor oil is to lubricate the rubbing parts of the engine. In addition, it cools it and rinses it, removing various impurities.

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