Does the sound signal on the VAZ 2110 not work? — Finding and eliminating the “culprit”

Author: Ivan Baranov

Every car must have a working horn. Thanks to the horn, the driver can prevent an emergency situation on the road and avoid a possible collision. But it often happens that the horn refuses to work. For what reasons does the sound signal on the VAZ 2110 not work and how to fix this problem - read below.

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Does the sound signal on the VAZ 2110 not work? — Finding and eliminating the “culprit”

Every car must have a working horn. Thanks to the horn, the driver can prevent an emergency situation on the road and avoid a possible collision. But it often happens that the horn refuses to work. For what reasons does the sound signal on the VAZ 2110 not work and how to fix this problem - read below.

Circuit breakers

F1 (5A)

• License plate lights
• Indicator lamp for turning on side lighting
• Trunk light
• Instrument lighting lamps
• Left side marker lamps

F2 (7.5A)

F3 (10A)

F4 (10A)

• Right fog lamp

F5 (30A)

• Door window motors

F6 (15A)

• Socket for portable lamp

F7 (20A)

• Engine Cooling Fan Motor / Horn

F8 (20A)

• Rear window heating element and heating switch contacts)

F9 (20A)

• Recirculation valve
• Window washer motor
• Rear window wiper motor
• Windshield wiper motor
• Headlight cleaner motor

F10 (20A)

F11 (5A)

• Starboard side marker lamps

F12 (7.5A)

• Right headlight (low beam)

F13 (10A)

• Right headlight (high beam)
• Indicator lamp for high beam headlights

F14 (10A)

• Left fog lamp

F15 (20A)

• Electric seat heating
• Trunk lock lock

F16 (10A)

• Relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in hazard warning mode)
• Hazard warning lamp

F17 (7.5A)

• Tail lights (brake lights)
• Body interior light
• Individual backlight lamp
• Ignition switch illumination lamp
• Clock (trip computer)

F18 (25A)

• Glove compartment lamp
• Heater controller
• Cigarette lighter

F19 (10A)

• Door locking
• Rear lights (reversing lights)
• Relay for monitoring the health of brake light and side light lamps
• Direction indicators with warning lamps
• Generator field winding
• On-board control system display unit
• Instrument cluster
• Clock (trip computer)

F20 (7.5A)

• Rear fog lamps

F21

F22

F23

K1

• Lamp integrity monitoring relay (4412.3747 / 2110-3747410)

K2

• Windshield wiper relay breaker (524.3747 / 2110-3747710)

K3

• Relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (492.3747 / 2108-3747010-02)

K4

• Relay for low beam headlights (113.3747 / 2105-3747210-10)

K5

• Headlight high beam relay (113.3747 / 2105-3747210-10)

K6

• Additional relay (71.3747-01 / 2110-3747310-01)

K7

• Relay for turning on the heated rear window (113.3747 / 2105-3747210-10)

K8

• Rear fog lamp relay (113.3747 / 2105-3747210-10)

Possible malfunctions: signs and causes

There are several signs of a malfunctioning sound signal on a VAZ 2110 or 2112:

1. The sound signal has disappeared. The driver presses the steering wheel or the corresponding button located on it, but there is no beep.
2. The beep appears and disappears. When the driver presses the steering wheel, the signal may start to work, but then immediately disappears.

There may be several reasons why the horn refuses to function:

1. One of the most common reasons is the failure of a safety device. In this case, the integrity of the horn itself will not be compromised, which greatly simplifies the repair procedure.
2. Failure of the horn itself. If after replacing the safety device the sound does not appear, you can try to check the functionality of the horn by dismantling it and directly connecting it to the battery. If the device is working, then when connected to the battery it will begin to emit a corresponding signal.
3. The reason may also be a short circuit in the vehicle's on-board network.
4. Another cause of the problem may be worn out clamping contacts located on the steering column. This problem often occurs in the cars of our compatriots. In any case, the clamping contacts wear out over time due to use; this cannot be prevented. As an option, you can try to increase the service life of the contacts; to do this, they need to be treated with graphite lubricant from time to time.
5. Worn slip ring on the steering wheel. As stated above, there is no escape from wear and tear, so sooner or later every car owner will face such a problem. As in the previous case, you can try to increase the service life of the slip ring by applying graphite lubricant to it.
6. Oxidation of contacts on the steering wheel. With prolonged use, deposits will begin to accumulate on the internal contacts, which makes it impossible to transmit the impulse to activate the horn.

Malfunctions of the electrical signal circuit:

1) check the presence of incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on old systems, “plus” is constant, but the signal was controlled by “minus”). If there is a plus and a minus that appears, when you press the horn, replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable and must be replaced if they fail);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

— the signal wheezes or disappears:

— the sound signal appears spontaneously when turning the steering wheel:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (too much “pressed” towards the steering wheel);

2) Ground circuit on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some KALINA and PRIORA models the signals are connected to the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, acts as a security system and alarm), and some reasons for the malfunction of the signals may be associated with it.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Methods for troubleshooting

If the horn circuit is broken and the horn stops working, then there are several options for solving the problem:

1. First you need to diagnose the safety device. If this part is burnt out, then you just need to replace it with a new one; the device is located in the mounting block. The replacement process will not take much time; any car enthusiast can cope with this task. If replacing the fuse gave results, but after some time the horn stopped working again, then most likely the reason lies in voltage surges in the on-board network. Overload contributes to accelerated burnout of the fuse element, so you will have to look for the source of the load and solve the problem. To do this, use a multimeter or seek help from an electrician.
2. If the horn itself malfunctions, the device must be replaced. If diagnostics by direct connection to the battery do not produce results, then most likely the reason lies in the device itself, which needs to be changed.
3. Short circuit. To diagnose, you will need a multimeter and a little experience. Using a tester, you can find a short circuit, but if you have never encountered such a problem before, it is better to seek help from specialists.
4. If the clamping contacts or slip ring are worn out, then the failed elements must be replaced. It is not a fact that you will be able to buy new contacts or a ring, so most likely you will have to change the horn assembly.
5. Another reason why the horn does not work is oxidation of the internal contacts. Over time, as mentioned above, dirt and deposits accumulate on them, which leads to the obstruction of sound. You can try to disassemble the steering wheel of the car, then clean the internal contacts and assemble the steering wheel (the author of the video is the channel Alexander Amochkin Kolomna AAK).

If you are faced with the problem of a non-working horn, then you will probably be wondering how to replace it:

1. First of all, you need to remove the steering wheel. To do this, remove the trim and unscrew the bolts that secure the steering wheel.
2. After the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks, perhaps this will help solve the problem. Make sure that the wire contacts in the column are as clean as possible .
3. Unscrew the two screws located under the plastic cover. After dismantling the cover, you will be able to see the contact plate; there is a possibility that the problem lies there. Clean the contacts and check the signal functionality. If the horn does not work, then using a 24mm wrench you will need to unscrew the nut, but you do not need to unscrew it all the way.
4. Next, the steering wheel itself must be pulled towards you; this will require some effort. You can try to move the wheel by tapping it from different sides. When you feel that the steering wheel has given way, the nut is unscrewed completely.
5. After dismantling the steering wheel, we proceed to removing the horn. There is a module located under the grille of the radiator unit; it must be removed; to do this, unscrew the nut to 13 and disconnect the connector.
6. Install a new one, replace the steering wheel and check the operation of the horn.

Photo gallery “Removing the steering wheel and replacing the horn”

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3 - mounting block

A - wiring block to the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan B - to power supplies

Is a Volga horn good?

Is it possible to use a signal from the Volga in the “ten”, how to install it and how to connect it yourself? In the VAZ 2110 it is allowed to install a Volga horn, and the latter can be either old or new model. There is no particular difference between these details, except that the tonality will be slightly different. And, of course, the cost. But keep in mind that installation by simply replacing the device will not work.

The bottom line is that two cables are connected to the standard device - one with a negative output, which comes from the button on the steering wheel, and the other with a positive one. The latter is permanently connected; it also powers the ventilation device of the radiator unit. But in Volga devices, only one cable is used - positive, since the mass in this case is supplied through the body, that is, from the attachment to the vehicle body. In addition, you must also take into account that both systems use different current consumers - the standard options require no more than 5 amperes, while the Volga ones require 8 amperes each. The result is 16 amperes (video author - Master Bruce).

Accordingly, to correctly connect a product from Volga to a VAZ 2110, you will need a four-pin relay; you have several options for installing it:

• in the vehicle interior, in the mounting block with fuses;
• in the engine compartment, but in this case, please note that the relay should be securely insulated to prevent moisture from entering.

Air signal connection

If you need to connect not an electric, but an airborne sound signal, the connection procedure will be almost the same as described above. The difference is that the wire from the relay does not go to the sound signal itself, but to the compressor (the engine that supplies air to the signal). And the pneumatic signal pipes are connected to the compressor through tubes.

When you press the horn, air from the compressor is supplied to the horns. With the help of a membrane installed in them, a sound signal is obtained.

You can read about how to connect the headlights yourself in our article How to connect the headlights.

The feasibility of self-repair

So does it make sense to repair the horn yourself? If we take into account the recommendations described above, then the repair is advisable only if the car owner is as careful as possible when performing it. After all, during the repair work, there is a high probability that an inexperienced car enthusiast will damage the wiring in the unit or connect the contacts incorrectly. Therefore, if you have never encountered a repair procedure before, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists or simply replace the horn assembly.

Installation of sound signals from Volga

Many owners of VAZ 2109, 2108 are not satisfied with the sound of the standard horn of their car. An excellent replacement for the standard nine signal can be the option discussed here for installing a sound signal from the Volga. Many, including the author, have already completed this not at all complicated installation, and do not regret the time and money spent, especially since this modernization is more than compensated by the awareness of the fact that his car has become a little closer to ideal, and is ready for it immediately show it to everyone!

We diagnose the sound signal

It all starts with the connector pins:

1. Let's say the voltage “+12” is not caused on both contacts. Then look for a short circuit or break point, starting from terminal 6-Ш5 (diagram above).
2. If positive voltage is received, check the second terminal. It will contact ground when you press the horn button. During this check, the battery must be disconnected.
3. If the previous two steps are completed successfully, then voltage is supplied to the horn. It may need to be replaced or the contacts cleaned.

By the way, in “step 2” it is recommended to rotate the steering wheel - contact may be broken at certain angles of rotation.

Features of the VAZ-2112 electrical circuit

The owners of cars of the “tenth” family are to some extent lucky: there is no relay in the horn circuit, but only a switch. The proof is given below.

Standard wiring diagram

The first step is to check fuse F7. In the mounting block it is in the top row (seventh from the left).

Voltage “+12” is applied to one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

If the fuse is good, potential “+12” should be at one of the horn terminals. Let's take a look under the hood...

Audio module connector

Disconnect the connector and check both terminals with a tester. We connect the second probe of the voltmeter to the negative of the battery.

The standard reason why the signal does not work on the VAZ-2112 is this: the “positive” voltage is connected, but the contact with the “ground” is broken. Most often the problem lies in the switch.

Methods for troubleshooting

If the horn circuit is broken and the horn stops working, then there are several options for solving the problem:

1. First you need to diagnose the safety device. If this part is burnt out, then you just need to replace it with a new one; the device is located in the mounting block. The replacement process will not take much time; any car enthusiast can cope with this task. If replacing the fuse gave results, but after some time the horn stopped working again, then most likely the reason lies in voltage surges in the on-board network. Overload contributes to accelerated burnout of the fuse element, so you will have to look for the source of the load and solve the problem. To do this, use a multimeter or seek help from an electrician.
2. If the horn itself malfunctions, the device must be replaced. If diagnostics by direct connection to the battery do not produce results, then most likely the reason lies in the device itself, which needs to be changed.
3. Short circuit. To diagnose, you will need a multimeter and a little experience. Using a tester, you can find a short circuit, but if you have never encountered such a problem before, it is better to seek help from specialists.
4. If the clamping contacts or slip ring are worn out, then the failed elements must be replaced. It is not a fact that you will be able to buy new contacts or a ring, so most likely you will have to change the horn assembly.
5. Another reason why the horn does not work is oxidation of the internal contacts. Over time, as mentioned above, dirt and deposits accumulate on them, which leads to the obstruction of sound. You can try to disassemble the steering wheel of the car, then clean the internal contacts and assemble the steering wheel (the author of the video is the channel Alexander Amochkin Kolomna AAK).

If you are faced with the problem of a non-working horn, then you will probably be wondering how to replace it:

1. First of all, you need to remove the steering wheel. To do this, remove the trim and unscrew the bolts that secure the steering wheel.
2. After the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks, perhaps this will help solve the problem. Make sure that the wire contacts in the column are as clean as possible .
3. Unscrew the two screws located under the plastic cover. After dismantling the cover, you will be able to see the contact plate; there is a possibility that the problem lies there. Clean the contacts and check the signal functionality. If the horn does not work, then using a 24mm wrench you will need to unscrew the nut, but you do not need to unscrew it all the way.
4. Next, the steering wheel itself must be pulled towards you; this will require some effort. You can try to move the wheel by tapping it from different sides. When you feel that the steering wheel has given way, the nut is unscrewed completely.
5. After dismantling the steering wheel, we proceed to removing the horn. There is a module located under the grille of the radiator unit; it must be removed; to do this, unscrew the nut to 13 and disconnect the connector.
6. Install a new one, replace the steering wheel and check the operation of the horn.

Photo gallery “Removing the steering wheel and replacing the horn”

Removing the steering wheel

If “step 2” is not successful, you need to remove the steering wheel. The two copper strips should “close” when pressed - everything is clear here. The test is carried out with an ohmmeter, and if necessary, the switch is replaced.

Steering wheel after dismantling

When the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks. The wire contacts in the column must also be clean.

Dismantling from start to finish

First you need to unscrew the two screws under the trim. Having removed the plastic, you can see the contact plate - perhaps that was the problem.

First step in dismantling

Try cleaning the contacts and performing “step 2” again. If there is no result, take a 24mm wrench and unscrew one nut (not all the way).

The steering wheel needs to be knocked off its splines

The steering wheel is pushed towards itself. And then the nut can be unscrewed completely.

When installing, follow one rule. The protrusion on the bracket should fit into the slot made in the plastic ring (see photo).

Steering wheel installation (first step)

How to remove a faulty signal (horn)

There is a single module mounted under the radiator grille. To remove it, unscrew one nut (key “13”). First disconnect the connector.

Dismantling, adjustment before installation

It will be necessary to remove the grille. This action is difficult to perform on both the “Ten” and even on the VAZ-2112, and the signal may not work due to faulty wiring. First achieve what was discussed in “step 3”. And only then, if necessary, proceed with replacement.

One adjusting screw is fixed to the horn body. Set it to the middle position and check.

Additional fuses and relays

Location

Additional fuses and relays are installed behind the side trim of the console, secured with two screws, on the right side of the instrument panel.

Circuit breakers

1 (15A)

2 (15A)

• Canister purge valve
• Vehicle speed sensor
• Oxygen sensor (heating)
• Air flow sensor

3 (15A)

• Fuel pump relay
• Fuel pump
• Injectors.

K4

K5

K6

• Main relay (ignition relay)

What to do if the signal on the VAZ-2110 does not work

A working car horn is a necessity. If the horn does not function, then the person sitting behind the wheel will not be able to notify either pedestrians or other drivers of his approach. As a result, a seemingly frivolous breakdown leads to the creation of an emergency situation with completely unpredictable consequences. For this reason, if you identify any problems in the operation of the beep, you should quickly begin to eliminate them. Why the signal does not work specifically on the VAZ 2110 model, and how to fix it, we will explain further.

Why did the horn stop working?

If the warning signal on the VAZ-2110 does not work, including the fan, you should not immediately contact a service station.

You can identify the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it yourself, taking into account the advice of professional technicians. Most often, the signal may stop working due to the following reasons:

1. A fuse that has become unusable. To fix the problem, you will need to replace the burnt element, which must match the color and value of the previous one. This procedure does not take much time; it can be completed in just a couple of minutes. But if after a short time the new fuse blows again, this problem needs to be solved at a service station.
2. If after replacement the sound signal does not appear, this will indicate a short circuit in the electrical network. To eliminate the cause of the problem, the owner’s experience is rarely enough, so the right decision would be to seek help from experienced professionals.
3. The sound signal stopped working due to a breakdown of the horn itself. If replacing the fuse did not produce any result, and the audible brake light still does not work, then most likely the horn itself is broken. It will be difficult even for an experienced car enthusiast to cope with the problem on his own, since in order to identify the cause of the breakdown, you need to connect the part to the battery. If you decide to check the signal yourself and the element does not start functioning after connecting to the battery, the easiest way is to buy a new horn and install it.

Probable Causes

Based on the nature of the signal malfunction in the VAZ-2110, it can be divided into two groups.

In the first case, the horn does not operate at all, no matter how the driver presses the button located in the center of the steering wheel.

The second option is that the sound is intermittent, that is, the signal begins to work unstable.

Among the most obvious and easily remediable causes, the main one is a blown fuse. A break in the fuse link de-energizes the entire electrical circuit, and, accordingly, the horn does not function at all. To check, just turn on the heater fan. It is connected to the same protective device.

Also, the horn itself often breaks on the 2110 model. This version is accepted as the main one if installing a working fuse does not lead to a positive result. Here you will have to tinker longer:

• the signal is removed (it is located behind the radiator grille);
• connect directly to a battery or other 12-volt power source (the white wire is “plus” and the black wire is “minus”);
• If the device itself is faulty, then it will not produce a characteristic sound.

When everything is in order with the node, then you should suspect a break that occurred somewhere in the circuit.

The next possibility is abrasion of the clamping contacts installed directly in the steering column. This is more likely the older the “ten” is. By the way, it is not difficult to extend their service life - it is enough to regularly treat the contacts with graphite-based lubricant.

Also, sometimes the problem lies in the oxidized terminals of the pads. Inspect the one located in the steering column, and the second one in the engine compartment. At the same time, make sure that all wiring is securely fastened.

The slip ring is less often to blame for the sound signal not working. It is located directly in the steering wheel. This element of the 2110th model also wears out over time and ceases to perform its intended function.

What else to pay attention to

Very often, the appearance of such malfunctions occurs due to the fault of the rear lights, or more precisely, in the places where the connectors with wires and lamp sockets are connected. Using a measuring device or a test lamp, check the presence of power at the rear light connectors with the brake pedal pressed or the wires on the switch connected to each other. If it is missing, you should carefully check the condition of the wiring harness.

Oxidation of contacts in connectors or sockets of electric lamps can be removed using available means. It is not advisable to use sandpaper for this, even very fine sandpaper. Alcohol-containing liquids are best suited for this, as they remove the resulting oxidation.

Source

Replacing the horn

The work is carried out in this way:

• remove the protective cover of the button;
• unscrew the three bolts securing the movable plate;
• inspect the contacts, clean them and test them;
• if it doesn’t help, then use a 24 mm wrench to slightly loosen the nut and pull the steering wheel towards you;
• when it gives in, finally unscrew the fasteners and remove the steering wheel;
• inspect the slip ring.

Next, look deep into it - there are two round bronze plaques. Close them - a sound is heard, which means the buzzer is ok and the problem is in the button. If nothing happens, then the signal is broken.

The horn itself, as previously noted, is hidden behind the radiator grille. A single 13mm nut holds it in place. It is more convenient to unscrew it with an open-end wrench. Next, disconnect the signal connector and remove the device.

It is advisable to check the functionality of the new horn. If everything is in order, then put the part back in place.

Afterwards, assemble the steering wheel and make sure that the unit works.

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

Connector for connecting “internal” lights. On the left side there is a connector through which the wiring goes to the fifth door. The connector has black and reddish wires. Check the voltages on them. In most cases, the ground on the black wire does not ring. But it may be necessary to clean the connector itself.

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil. If the “plus” does not come to the reddish wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

1. Disconnect the connector with 2 wires from the limit switch;
2. Using 17mm wrenches, loosen the two nuts: holding the bottom nut, rotate the top one;

None If all the steps fail, there is only one thing left to do: contact a qualified electrician. We want success.

• carfrance.ru
• ladaautos.ru
• www.drive2.ru
• vivauto.ru

Horn from Volga - is it really possible to install it on a VAZ?

For those who want to increase the volume of the VAZ-2110 signal, it makes sense to replace the standard one with a product intended for the Volga.
You can take either an old type element or a new one - there is no difference between them. However, it is worth considering one nuance - the device for Lada has two wires: minus and plus, while the GAZ horn is equipped with only one cable (positive). Simply put, in the Volga the circuit is closed to the total mass of the car, that is, its body.

There is one more circumstance. The “tens” horn consumes only 5 amperes, and the gas analog – 8. Since they are installed as a set (2 pieces), the output will be 16 A. That is, a stronger fuse will be needed in the electrical circuit.

Additionally, the native circuit of the VAZ-2110 will have to be complicated by installing a relay designed for four contact groups. It is permissible to install the relay where it is convenient. Choose:

• interior mounting block;
• engine compartment (here it is isolated from moisture).

The work is performed as follows:

• remove the radiator grille;
• disconnect the connector from the signal;
• cut off the block remaining on the car;
• a relay is connected to the wire (contacts 85 minus and 86 plus, a jumper is placed on the latter leading to 87);
• two beeps are attached in series to pin 30;
• then they are fixed with bolts on the frame in pre-drilled holes;
• the radiator grille is put in place.

It remains to check the functionality of the signal.

Speed ​​sensor

There is another sensor that is not related to the power plant - this is the speed sensor. It is located on the gearbox.

He is responsible for the speedometer and odometer readings. The reliability of this sensor is low, and the malfunction is manifested by incorrect speedometer readings.

As for the electrical part of the car, the weakest parts of the VAZ 2110 - 2112 are the generator and window lifting mechanisms.

The generator in these cars rarely lasts more than 60 thousand km. Generator malfunctions manifest themselves in the cessation of power supply to the vehicle’s on-board network.

They are often eliminated only by replacing it, although some elements of the latter can still be repaired.