Answers (5)
first, lubricate the lock with WD40.
I lubricated the lock with WD40 and silicone, it closes quietly and uselessly, I recently changed the sealing rubber of the same door with a VAZ one, in my opinion it all started from that moment, I’ll try my old one and post the result, the result.
My door wouldn’t close today, I tried everything - nothing worked! then I just drove off and it worked fine, it was just because of the frost) you need to shorten the door, that is, remove the door trim and lubricate everything there with WD-40, the mechanism freezes, and that’s why it doesn’t function normally
I just need to adjust it, the torso key is 40 and the hammer, I’ve already done it, I apologize if I’ve bothered anyone with my questions.
My problem with a door that won’t close was solved in the following way: At first I was guilty of lubricating the lock, because I noticed that spraying it with WD helps for a couple of hours. But after that the situation worsened and it became very difficult. It was then that I decided to take a close look at the castle itself. Its design is simple: there is a fork that rises up when the door is closed, and the ends of this fork are sequentially hooked by a hook that falls from above. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the surfaces of the fork and the hook that falls from above had become a little worn over time and became slightly rounded. I took a file and sharpened the surfaces. The problem went away immediately, like a bad dream.
I know what to do if they bounce, if anyone is interested, I’ll send you a video via Viber +380977119095
Finally got around to adjusting the right luggage door. Immediately after the purchase, I adjusted the locks - at the factory they were set so crookedly that the door slammed with considerable force, and it was clear that when closed the entire structure was under some kind of tension - the plastic linings on the doors below and above were already skewed.
During that adjustment, I adjusted the locks so that they closed freely, but along the way it turned out that the right door in the area where the doors meet was 2 mm higher. So it was necessary to gain access to the loops. I decided to put it off “until better times” and now they have come.
I removed the rear light - everything is easy there, then I removed the plastic trim - without this you can’t get to the nut holding the plug above the light. The nut fortunately fell inside somewhere and when I assembled it, I installed a new one.
So through the loops. The upper hinge was bolted at the factory with a force of no more than half a kilogram! Both bolts! It was held in place with some kind of acrylic sealant; it was this that prevented the hinge from moving. Roughly speaking, I needed to move the upper right loop to the left by some millimeter. The sealant had to be torn off; it was firmly stuck. When I tore it off, the loop was able to move to the left.
I aligned the door, readjusted the locks of both doors, filled the torn sealant on the hinge with some kind of Movil with zinc, and put everything back together.
The doors became at the same level, and what’s interesting is that they became easier to close. You no longer need to exert constant force to close it.
And it became offensive: why the hell do I even have to do this? But at the factory there are as many as two people hanging doors... At least one should be fine with his eyes, and the other with his hands. AND THEN EVERYTHING WOULD BE A BUNCH.
Your request on the topic of door adjustment Lada Largus video has been processed. The best repair video and instructions on how to repair can only be found on our website. The presented videos are published with photos. Enjoy watching.
Owner reviews: Diesel (254 NM and that says it all), spacious interior and trunk, heating comfort, climate control, good optics, fuel efficiency, excellent cruising (on the highway) characteristics, smooth ride.
Category: Video instructions
Published by admin: at the request of Jaime
Did the doors close well before and did the problems appear recently?
This is due to the natural wear and tear of the mechanism and dirt inside it. To make the doors close again easily, you need to clean the lock and file the contacting surfaces.
If the mechanism is dirty, the “tongue” cannot securely close the lock. To solve the problem, you need to clean the dirt and lubricate the lock with a “liquid key”.
Over time, the contacting surfaces of the lock parts become rounded due to constant friction. Because of this, they no longer lock the door when closed. All you need to do is sharpen the surfaces with a file.
To better understand what exactly needs to be done, you can study the locks of the front and rear doors. Typically, the mechanisms at the rear wear out more slowly due to infrequent use.
Adjusting the rear doors of Lada Largus
I owe this modification to Kkolik from the Largus forum. Thanks to him for the written explanation. I didn’t even really notice that the rear left door, from the bottom, didn’t close completely, but it looked like this.
Next, I use a wrench to loosen the bolts of the top bolt so that they hold the lock tightly.
Next, I disassemble the lower part and get to the bottom hinge.
And here it is, the RESULT.
That's all. Everything took about 12 minutes, of which 6 minutes I stupidly opened and closed the door. Ultimately, the door closes with 2 hinges and quite easily compared to what it was before the adjustment. Good luck to everyone on the roads.
Finally got around to adjusting the right luggage door. Immediately after the purchase, I adjusted the locks - at the factory they were set so crookedly that the door slammed with considerable force, and it was clear that when closed the entire structure was under some kind of tension - the plastic linings on the doors below and above were already skewed.
During that adjustment, I adjusted the locks so that they closed freely, but along the way it turned out that the right door in the area where the doors meet was 2 mm higher. So it was necessary to gain access to the loops. I decided to put it off “until better times” and now they have come.
I removed the rear light - everything is easy there, then I removed the plastic trim - without this you can’t get to the nut holding the plug above the light. The nut fortunately fell inside somewhere and when I assembled it, I installed a new one.
So through the loops. The upper hinge was bolted at the factory with a force of no more than half a kilogram! Both bolts! It was held in place with some kind of acrylic sealant; it was this that prevented the hinge from moving. Roughly speaking, I needed to move the upper right loop to the left by some millimeter. The sealant had to be torn off; it was firmly stuck. When I tore it off, the loop was able to move to the left.
I aligned the door, readjusted the locks of both doors, filled the torn sealant on the hinge with some kind of Movil with zinc, and put everything back together.
The doors became at the same level, and what’s interesting is that they became easier to close. You no longer need to exert constant force to close it.
And it became offensive: why the hell do I even have to do this? But at the factory there are as many as two people hanging doors... At least one should be fine with his eyes, and the other with his hands. AND THEN EVERYTHING WOULD BE A BUNCH.
Some owners, after purchasing a LADA car, notice malfunctions in the operation of the doors. For example, the back door doesn't open well. You can cope with the problem yourself by adjusting the locks and door geometry. The defect can also be corrected under warranty from an authorized dealer.
Malfunctions that owners of LADA cars (and other car brands) encounter when the door locks are not adjusted:
- the door does not open or close;
- the door closes/opens poorly (tight);
- large gaps between the door and the body (water gets into the cabin, rattling and whistling appear at speed).
Door adjustment on all LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Priora, Kalina Niva 4x4) is performed in the same way. There are no fundamental differences.
Rules for caring for your washing machine
A few simple recommendations:
Install the machine on a flat horizontal plane. She should stand without bending over. The correct position of the machine is achieved by using a level and adjusting the height of the legs. Washing in an unstable position leads to rapid wear of internal components and mechanisms. Empty pockets before washing. Foreign objects remaining in them cause damage to the machine. Repair technicians often find stuck coins, pins, and metal fittings in drain pipes that obstruct the flow of water. Wash inside out. Items with zippers, buttons and decorative decorations are turned inside out or washed in special bags. Fallen fastener elements often get stuck in the car. Inspect the drum chamber for debris and foreign objects. What is found is removed and the debris in the rubber rim is cleaned. Rational drum loading. The instruction manual indicates the maximum permissible weight of laundry for each washing mode. Regular cleaning of the drain filter. It must be performed once every 3–4 months. For daily washing - once a month. Inspection of hoses. Their kinks or twists reduce the water pressure to ensure smooth operation of the machine. Careful handling of the washing machine
The hatch handle is torn off carefully. Nothing can be hung on the door
The top panel of the machine must be clean, free of foreign objects. Shampoos and detergents that jump during the spin cycle do not improve the quality of washing. They create excess noise and increase vibration, leading to wear of components and parts.
There are many reasons why the washing machine door is blocked. Haste and emotions will not help in this situation. By following the recommendations received, you can turn unlocking the hatch into an exciting process.
Source
Rear door adjustment
You should first check all door gaps (bottom, top and sides). Most often, doors are difficult to open due to incorrect geometry, for example, the upper part of the rear door of the car fits too tightly to the body and drain. To adjust this gap:
- Lower the window completely.
- Close the door with one click.
- Pull the top of the door slightly towards you by the edge.
If there is a need to adjust the bottom of the door , then you will have to:
- Open the door.
- Close the doors by striking the bottom of the door with your palm.
To make the process more clear, we recommend watching a video that shows the process of fitting Renault doors at the Russian plant:
As a result, all gaps between the doors and the body must be equal, and the doors themselves must not protrude or fall into the body. The front doors are adjusted in the same way.
Attention!
When adjusting the door this way, do not use force, otherwise the door may be damaged!
Why is cladding needed?
One of the main purposes of Largus door trim is door sound insulation. It also improves the performance of the vehicle's acoustic system. If you cannot drive without music, and the speakers are installed specifically in the door, then the trim must be done.
The reasons for dismantling and replacing the old casing in the Lada Largus Cross and other models:
- failure of the electric window;
- broken wiring;
- speaker malfunction;
- damage to rear and front door handles;
- the need to improve the quality of sound insulation.
Removal of old casing should be done carefully. For an experienced specialist, the procedure takes only 15 minutes
Door lock adjustment
Another reason for poor door opening is unadjusted locks.
Required
: Phillips screwdriver (if the screws do not come off, you will need an impact screwdriver) or Torx T40 wrench
- Mark the position of the lock shackle for possible return to its original state.
- Loosen the two/three bolts securing the lock bracket.
- We move the bracket (forward/backward, up/down), achieving easy and tight closure of the door.
- Upon completion of the adjustment, tighten the screws securing the lock retainer with a torque of 22 Nm.
Everything said in the article is shown in the video:
Have you ever had to adjust the door locks yourself? Let us remind you that in order to extend the life of locks and seals, they should be lubricated regularly. Do you want to improve the design? Install additional door seals (instructions for XRAY, Vesta, Granta/Kalina/Priora, Largus and Lada 4x4).
Replacement or repair
To check the condition of the parts, the door lock of the Lada Largus car must be removed and disassembled. To get to the plastic box that hides the core of the device, the handle is removed, the decorative panel is removed, and the wiring is disconnected. To work you need to prepare:
- screwdrivers;
- pliers;
- socket wrench 8;
- lubricant;
- anti-corrosion;
- knife.
Only an experienced mechanic can go through all the rules and identify the cause of the damage. It is easier for the average person to replace the cylinder, wiring or the entire lock.
Adjusting the rear doors of Lada Largus
Place the car in the workplace. Disconnect the earth wire terminal from the battery.
Unscrew screw 1, Figure 7-1, securing the inner handle 2 for opening the door left or right.
Unscrew screws 4 securing the left door trim.
Overcoming the resistance of the holders, remove the trim 3 of the left or right door.
Figure 7-1 – Fastening the loading door trims: |
1 – screw securing the internal door opening handle; 2 – internal door opening handle; 3 – loading door trim; 4 – upholstery fastening screw
Location of the fastening clamps for the upholstery of the left tailgate leaf (view from the inside)
Unscrew the protective cap of nut 3, Figure 7-2, securing the windshield wiper arm 2, unscrew the nut, remove the arm (wrench 13).
1 – rear left loading door trim; 2 – windshield wiper lever; 3 – nut securing the windshield wiper arm
Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the wiper 2, Figure 7-3. Drill out rivets 1, remove the windshield wiper (drill, drill bit).
1 – rivet for fastening the windshield wiper; 2 – windshield wiper
Unscrew bolts 1, Figure 7-4, fastening the upper and lower door clamps on the left or right, remove the clamps by disconnecting the lock drive cables from them (replaceable head Torx T30, knob).
|
1 – fixing bolt; 2 – upper clamp; 3 – lower clamp
Unscrew bolts 2, Figure 7-5, and nuts 3 securing the lining 1, (see Figure 7-2), of the loading doors, remove the lining by disconnecting the lock rod from the door lock switch (replaceable head 10, knob).
Unscrew bolts 1 securing the loading door lock, remove the lock assembly with the drive cables for the upper and lower clamps (replaceable Torx T30 head, knob).
Figure 7-5 – Removing the loading door trims: |
1 – screw securing the loading door lock, left or right; 2 – lining fastening bolt; 3 – nut securing the lining
Remove additional brake light
Disconnect the wiring connectors from the rear window heating element and from the license plate light.
Remove the wiring harness and rear window washer tube from the door cavity.
Unscrew the two upper and two lower bolts 1, Figure 7-6, securing the left or right loading door to the hinges, remove the door (replaceable head 13, knob).
1 – bolt securing the loading door to the hinges; 2 – bolt securing the loading door hinges to the body; 3 – limiter lock handle; 4 – limiter seal; 5 – loading door hinge; 6 – bolt securing the limiter to the body; 7 – loading door limiter; 8 – screw securing the limiter lock handle; 9 – protective tube for the left loading door wiring harness
Unscrew screw 8, remove handle 3 of limiter lock 7. Remove seal 4 of limiter. Unscrew two nuts 1, Figure 7-7, remove lock 2 of the limiter through the technological opening in the door.
1 – nut securing the loading door stop lock; 2 – loading door stop lock
If it is necessary to replace the hinges and limiter:
– remove the rear light
– unscrew the two bolts 6 securing the limiter 7 of the loading door, remove the limiter (replaceable Torx T30 head, knob).
– unscrew the three screws securing the top trim 1, Figure 7-8, of the rear light, remove the left or right trim.
1 – cover fastening screw; 2 – upper trim of the rear light
– unscrew the two upper and two lower bolts 2 (see Figure 7-6) securing the hinges 3 to the body, remove the hinges (replaceable head 13, knob).
Installation of components and parts of loading doors should be carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, in this case:
– lubricate the rubbing parts of the windshield wiper, sliding surfaces in the door lock, door opening limiter, rod joints and hinges (CIATIM-201 lubricant, consumption rate -5 g);
– secure the windshield wiper using rivets (rivet 7703072362, gun for installing rivets type KPM-24M NFP “Instrument”, St. Petersburg);
– before installing the door trim, temporarily connect the earth wire terminal to the battery, check and, if necessary, adjust the operation of the door lock and windshield wiper;
– if necessary, restore or replace the sealing seal at the end of the upholstery;
– ensure uniformity of the gap between the doors and the mating body panels
Video
Finally got around to adjusting the right luggage door. Immediately after the purchase, I adjusted the locks - at the factory they were set so crookedly that the door slammed with considerable force, and it was clear that when closed the entire structure was under some kind of tension - the plastic linings on the doors below and above were already skewed.
During that adjustment, I adjusted the locks so that they closed freely, but along the way it turned out that the right door in the area where the doors meet was 2 mm higher. So it was necessary to gain access to the loops. I decided to put it off “until better times” and now they have come.
I removed the rear light - everything is easy there, then I removed the plastic trim - without this you can’t get to the nut holding the plug above the light. The nut fortunately fell inside somewhere and when I assembled it, I installed a new one.
So through the loops. The upper hinge was bolted at the factory with a force of no more than half a kilogram! Both bolts! It was held in place with some kind of acrylic sealant; it was this that prevented the hinge from moving. Roughly speaking, I needed to move the upper right loop to the left by some millimeter. The sealant had to be torn off; it was firmly stuck. When I tore it off, the loop was able to move to the left.
I aligned the door, readjusted the locks of both doors, filled the torn sealant on the hinge with some kind of Movil with zinc, and put everything back together.
The doors became at the same level, and what’s interesting is that they became easier to close. You no longer need to exert constant force to close it.
And it became offensive: why the hell do I even have to do this? But at the factory there are as many as two people hanging doors... At least one should be fine with his eyes, and the other with his hands. AND THEN EVERYTHING WOULD BE A BUNCH.
Other section materials
Technical description |
Vehicle specifications |
Vehicle registration details |
Safety precautions during maintenance and repair |
Location of the main components and assemblies of the car |
Vehicle technical check |
Maintenance schedule |
Checking the condition of wheels and tires |
Wheel replacement |
Replacing the windshield and trunk door glass wiper blades |
Checking the fluid level in the windshield washer reservoir |
Checking the oil level in the 1.6 (8V) engine |
Changing the oil and oil filter of the 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing spark plugs for 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing the replacement element of the 1.6(8V) engine air filter |
Replacing the accessory drive belt |
Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt of the 1.6 (8V) engine |
Checking the level and adding engine coolant 1.6(8V) |
Replacing engine coolant 1.6 (8V) |
Checking the oil level in the 1.6 (16V) engine |
Changing the engine oil and oil filter |
Replacing spark plugs for a 1.6 (16V) engine |
Replacing the replacement element of the 1.6(16V) engine air filter |
Replacing the 1.6(16V) engine accessory drive belt |
Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt of the 1.6 (16V) engine |
Checking the level and adding engine coolant 1.6(16V) |
Checking the level and adding oil to the gearbox |
Checking the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir |
Replacing fluid in brake and clutch hydraulic drives |
Bleeding the hydraulic brake system |
Checking the fluid level in the power steering reservoir |
Checking the condition of the brake system |
Checking the chassis and transmission |
Checking the steering condition |
Engine 1.6 (8V) |
Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket for a 1.6 (8V) engine |
Checking and adjusting thermal clearances in the valve drive of the 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing the camshaft oil seal of the 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket for 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket for 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal of a 1.6 (8V) engine |
Replacing the 1.6 (8V) engine oil pressure warning sensor |
Replacing the oil pan gasket for 1.6 (8V) engine |
Removing the 1.6 (8V) engine oil pump |
Replacement of engine power unit mounts 1.6 (8V) |
Removal and installation of 1.6 (8V) engine engine |
Engine 1.6 (16V) |
Replacing the 1.6 (16V) engine oil pressure warning sensor |
Removing the fuel rail protection for the 1.6 (16V) engine |
Removing the oil separator for the engine crankcase ventilation system 1.6 (16V) |
Answers (5)
First, lubricate the lock with WD40
I lubricated it with wd 40 and silicone, it closed quietly and uselessly, I recently changed the rubber seal of the same door to a VAZ one, in my opinion it all started from that moment, I’ll try my old one and post the result, the result.
My door wouldn’t close today, I tried everything - nothing worked! then I just drove off and it worked fine, it was just because of the frost) you need to shorten the door, that is, remove the door trim and lubricate everything there with WD-40, the mechanism freezes, and that’s why it doesn’t function normally
I just need to adjust it, the torso key is 40 and the hammer, I’ve already done it, I apologize if I’ve bothered anyone with my questions.
My problem with a door that won’t close was solved in the following way: At first I was guilty of lubricating the lock, because I noticed that spraying it with WD helps for a couple of hours. But after that the situation worsened and it became very difficult. It was then that I decided to take a close look at the castle itself. Its design is simple: there is a fork that rises up when the door is closed, and the ends of this fork are sequentially hooked by a hook that falls from above. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the surfaces of the fork and the hook that falls from above had become a little worn over time and became slightly rounded. I took a file and sharpened the surfaces. The problem went away immediately, like a bad dream.
I know what to do if they bounce, if anyone is interested, I’ll send you a video via Viber +380977119095
Finally got around to adjusting the right luggage door. Immediately after the purchase, I adjusted the locks - at the factory they were set so crookedly that the door slammed with considerable force, and it was clear that when closed the entire structure was under some kind of tension - the plastic linings on the doors below and above were already skewed.
During that adjustment, I adjusted the locks so that they closed freely, but along the way it turned out that the right door in the area where the doors meet was 2 mm higher. So it was necessary to gain access to the loops. I decided to put it off “until better times” and now they have come.
I removed the rear light - everything is easy there, then I removed the plastic trim - without this you can’t get to the nut holding the plug above the light. The nut fortunately fell inside somewhere and when I assembled it, I installed a new one.
So through the loops. The upper hinge was bolted at the factory with a force of no more than half a kilogram! Both bolts! It was held in place with some kind of acrylic sealant; it was this that prevented the hinge from moving. Roughly speaking, I needed to move the upper right loop to the left by some millimeter. The sealant had to be torn off; it was firmly stuck. When I tore it off, the loop was able to move to the left.
I aligned the door, readjusted the locks of both doors, filled the torn sealant on the hinge with some kind of Movil with zinc, and put everything back together.
The doors became at the same level, and what’s interesting is that they became easier to close. You no longer need to exert constant force to close it.
And it became offensive: why the hell do I even have to do this? But at the factory there are as many as two people hanging doors... At least one should be fine with his eyes, and the other with his hands. AND THEN EVERYTHING WOULD BE A BUNCH.
Your request on the topic of door adjustment Lada Largus video has been processed. The best repair video and instructions on how to repair can only be found on our website. The presented videos are published with photos. Enjoy watching.
Owner reviews: Diesel (254 NM and that says it all), spacious interior and trunk, heating comfort, climate control, good optics, fuel efficiency, excellent cruising (on the highway) characteristics, smooth ride.
Category: Video instructions
Published by admin: at the request of Jaime
How to remove a spare tire
Night tariff: In accordance with the operating hours of our office, this tariff is valid from the end of the working day to the beginning of the working day, and contains a mileage limit of 150 km. Unlimited tariff: This tariff can be used for 2 days or more.
The lightweight and capacious Fiat Ducato for various types of cargo transportation up to 1.5 tons is one of the most reasonable and expedient options among other offers on the commercial vehicle market. The wide sliding side door and the very low loading height ensure that loading and unloading operations can be carried out with minimal effort.
The car, with its representative, perfectly crafted design and external neatness, remains, first of all, a very efficient and maneuverable cargo vehicle. Thanks to the presence of wide side moldings, the body is firmly protected from offensive mini-damages from sand, stones on the road, plant branches and other possible adverse situations.
From the first glance at the car, attention is drawn to reliable and massive bumpers, lively roof pillars with laconic transitions directly into the wing, and beautiful light optics. The interior's pragmatic trim includes a functional instrument panel with accessible, stylish controls
Fiat Ducato includes two engine options, Multijet turbodiesels of varying volume and power:
spare tire mounting bracket for Peugeot Boxer, Fiat Ducato, Citroen Jumper
- volume 2.3 liters guarantees 130 horsepower;
- Engine volume of 3 liters provides power of 157 hp.
The Common Rail development, which produces multi-phase injection under the influence of high pressure, allows for efficient engine operation with breathtakingly economical fuel consumption.
Even at low speeds, the innovative Fiat Ducato engines have enviable torque (320-400 Nm). In practical terms, this means a quick start and quick acceleration, comfort, fuel efficiency and greater pleasure in the travel process.
For your own needs, you can choose a car from 3 loading height options and 3 possible wheelbase implementations. The internal volume of the body, depending on the configuration, can vary from 8 to 17 cubic meters.
The sliding door moves freely and simply due to the presence of an upper guide.
To ensure confidence in every new ride, the ergonomic, robust and agile Fiat Ducato has all the necessary conditions:
- The standard package includes an anti-lock brake system;
- electrical dispersal of braking forces;
- seat belt pretensioners;
- airbag (front) for driver;
- power steering;
- stability stabilizer.
Additionally, the developers have provided the ability to install:
- side and front airbags for passengers;
- towing obstacle avoidance system;
- seat heating;
- climate control and air conditioning in the cabin;
- parking sensors;
- Cruise control;
- various multimedia systems.
The leaf spring rear suspension makes its own contribution to the reliable and long-term operation of the car, thanks to which the Ducato can withstand the highest loads and the difficulty of driving on roads with poor surfaces.
In most cars, the spare tire is located in a special niche, which is present in the luggage compartment and is covered with a shelf. In this regard, the designers of the domestic high-capacity station wagon Lada Largus indulged in an unconventional method of placing the spare wheel. And many are interested in the question: where is the spare tire? They placed this wheel in a special basket, which they hung from the outside to the bottom in the trunk area. If the new owner of this model is not aware of the location of the spare tire, then it may take him some time to find this object, during which he is guaranteed to be in complete amazement.
Answers (5)
first, lubricate the lock with WD40. I lubricated the lock with WD40 and silicone, it closes quietly and uselessly, I recently changed the sealing rubber of the same door with a VAZ one, in my opinion it all started from that moment, I’ll try my old one and post the result, the result.
My door wouldn’t close today, I tried everything - nothing worked! then I just drove off and it worked fine, it was just because of the frost) you need to shorten the door, that is, remove the door trim and lubricate everything there with WD-40, the mechanism freezes, and that’s why it doesn’t function normally
I just need to adjust it, the torso key is 40 and the hammer, I’ve already done it, I apologize if I’ve bothered anyone with my questions.
My problem with a door that won’t close was solved in the following way: At first I was guilty of lubricating the lock, because I noticed that spraying it with WD helps for a couple of hours. But after that the situation worsened and it became very difficult. It was then that I decided to take a close look at the castle itself. Its design is simple: there is a fork that rises up when the door is closed, and the ends of this fork are sequentially hooked by a hook that falls from above. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the surfaces of the fork and the hook that falls from above had become a little worn over time and became slightly rounded. I took a file and sharpened the surfaces. The problem went away immediately, like a bad dream.
I know what to do if they bounce, if anyone is interested, I’ll send you a video via Viber +380977119095
Finally got around to adjusting the right luggage door. Immediately after the purchase, I adjusted the locks - at the factory they were set so crookedly that the door slammed with considerable force, and it was clear that when closed the entire structure was under some kind of tension - the plastic linings on the doors below and above were already skewed.
A pattern that is the norm
The figure-of-eight design of locks is the norm in domestic car manufacturers. Priora was no exception to this rule and received figure-eight locks from the assembly line. What exactly is the pattern?
The pattern appears at the time of purchase of the above-mentioned silent locks, which also have a figure-eight design. The only difference is the smaller thread diameter of the bolts in the mating part of the mechanism.
All Ptimash bolts have a silicone seal, the color range of which cannot be predicted. It is worth paying attention to the fact that their color can be either transparent, which is the most popular, or any other. Thus, it is not realistic to match the color of your fingers to the color of the car, but the final high-quality result more than covers this shortcoming.
Largus door lock device
Removing the front door lock and outside handle
We carry out the work when replacing the lock and external handle.
The operations are shown on the driver's door. We remove the lock and handle of the right front door in the same way. Remove the door trim (see “Removing the front door trim,” p. 240).
Using a 10mm socket with an extension, unscrew the two nuts securing the outer door handle.
into the hole in the inner panel of the door, remove the bracket from the grooves in the cylinder mechanism of the lock.
. can be changed due to the turns rolled on it.
After installing the outer handle and lock, the handle rod is snapped into the required position with a metal lock, while the lock and handle levers must be in the free position.
For about 2 months now I’ve been suffering because the driver’s door opens spontaneously, even regardless of whether the doors are locked or not. From all the reviews from the owners, I concluded that this is a disease in Largus, and the only way out is to buy the left door mechanism.
THE QUESTION IS WHAT, WHERE TO FIND THE NUMBER (ARTICLE? OF THE FRONT LEFT LOCK? I want to look at least in the auto analysis
Vin - XTAKSOY5LF0868159 Largus 2022, 16 Cl, complete set - full luxury, 5 seats.
We prepare the car for the job. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
Lower the sliding window to the bottom position.
Using a Torx T30 screwdriver, unscrew screw 2, Figure 4-1, securing the interior door handle 3; Disconnect the lock rod from the handle and remove the handle.
Remove the trim and use a Torx T30 screwdriver to unscrew the four self-tapping screws 4 fastening the loudspeaker of the acoustic system, disconnect the wiring harness block and remove the loudspeaker.
Using a Torx T20 screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screw 4, Figure 3, fastening the upholstery from the end.
Using a Torx T20 screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screw 2 fastening the upholstery on the armrest.
For version with manual window lift:
Procedure for dismantling
Let's look at how to remove the Largus door trim step by step:
- Use a 10 key to separate the terminal mass from the battery cylinder.
- Using a T20 screwdriver, unscrew the screw that secures the internal handles, and use it to remove the right and left door trim, carefully breaking all the fasteners.
- Unscrew the protective cap of the nut that secures the windshield wiper at the rear. It is convenient to use key 13 for these purposes.
- Remove the trim, dismantle the cable deck from the windshield wiper, drill out the required rivets using a drill, and remove the wiper.
- Remove the latches and door stops from the outside, separate the cables from the lock drive at the bottom, it is convenient to use T30 Torx for this.
- Using a 10mm replaceable head or a wrench, remove the linings, tighten the bolts and nuts, after first separating the rod from the lock toggle switch.
- Disassemble the additional brake signal by separating the block with cable from the rear window heating element. Now there is no wiring harness on the Largus door or a washer tube on the rear window.
- Unscrew the set of 4 bolts that attach to the body.
- Remove the seal, the handle of the lock limiter, tighten a couple of nuts on the bolts, and remove the limiter through a special opening inside.
After disassembly, it is worth inspecting the parts - you will probably need to replace old hinges and stops. To do this, unscrew a couple of bolts from the mount, then remove the limiter with a wrench or Torx 30.
Sequence of actions for the front door
The procedure for removing the trim from the front door of a Lada Largus car is similar to removing material from the rear door near the trunk:
- The built-in speaker is removed using a special spatula.
- Using T20, take out 4 screws and disconnect the wiring.
- Using the T30 nozzle, they dismantle the linings, door handles, and unscrew a pair of self-tapping screws (one goes on the side of the casing, the second under the plug).
- Carefully remove the casing using pistons or clips.
If everything is done correctly, the Largus door will remain safe and sound. No special skills are needed here - every motorist can cope with the task.
Rear door adjustment
You should first check all door gaps (bottom, top and sides). Most often, doors are difficult to open due to incorrect geometry, for example, the upper part of the rear door of the car fits too tightly to the body and drain. To adjust this gap:
- Lower the window completely.
- Close the door with one click.
- Pull the top of the door slightly towards you by the edge.
If there is a need to adjust the bottom of the door , then you will have to:
- Open the door.
- Close the doors by striking the bottom of the door with your palm.
Bracket selection and installation
Brackets for fixing a spare wheel on Largus appeared on the car accessories market not so long ago. There are two types of such fastenings:
- spare tire holder on the rear door: fixed and rotating versions available;
- reinforced spare wheel mount - fixed in the trunk opening and to the bottom of the car, replacing the tow bar.
To install the fastener, you do not need to drill new holes for bolted connections; existing standard places are used. The spare wheel on the back door can become a decoration if you purchase an additional cover. It can be ordered in any color and with any inscription.
Installing the bracket takes no more than 20 minutes:
- unscrew the upper nuts of the lower and upper hinge of the rear door on the right;
- the bracket is placed on the vacant seats;
- screw the hinge nuts and two fastening bolts into the standard places near the door lock.
The Lada Largus is available in a front-wheel drive version, so it is better to purchase two sets of tires: a summer and a winter version. Preference can be given to both domestic and foreign rubber manufacturers. It’s not worth saving on purchasing as an all-season product: multiple experiments have proven its dubious effectiveness.
To watch online, click on the video ⤵
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Causes of malfunction
The Largus rear door lock operates with an electric drive, and the driver's door can be opened mechanically. Poor performance is influenced not only by time, but also by:
- weather;
- irregular diagnosis;
- lack of care;
- aggressive detergents;
- water ingress;
- corrosion of metal;
- broken internal pins;
- disconnective displacement;
- device hacking;
- deformation of the body part.
Only a complete diagnosis will help identify the malfunction.
Body repair of Lada Largus after an accident in St. Petersburg
Lada body repair in SKR is a high-quality and inexpensive repair. At the Body Repair Station, Lada cars are constantly dealt with. We have extensive experience working with this brand, which allows us to easily carry out all repair work on the body and more. Lada body repair is not particularly difficult for us. We are used to working with spare parts for this car. And we will tell the car owner which Lada body parts are best to purchase. And if you want to achieve the highest quality results in repairing Lada cars, leave all the hassle of selecting spare parts to us. Our craftsmen personally inspect spare parts and select the most accurate stamping possible. This allows you to achieve a good final result in the repair. If you are interested in the cost and timing of Lada body repairs, call tel. 8 921 550-30-31
The owner of the Lada Largus car has a long history of accident-free driving. The accident happened due to the fault of the second participant. Largus was moving along the main road, and a car pulled out of his pocket, the driver of which mixed up the pedals and pressed the gas instead of the brake. Thus, Lada Largus suffered through no fault of its driver. The owner of the car was very upset, as he was very attached to his car, and even gave it a name: “Snow White.” And I approached the choice of a car service with special attention. Despite the fact that he himself lives in Lomonosovo, he chose our service.
The damage to the car was quite serious. The geometry of the body and the entire starboard side were damaged.
We carried out the following work:
- The geometry of the body was restored;
- The right rear fender was repaired and painted;
- The front right fender was replaced and painted;
- The front right door was replaced and painted;
- We carried out repairs including painting the front right door pillar;
- We replaced the right center pillar with the threshold and painted it;
- Replaced the rear right door with painting;
- Both bumpers were painted.
The color was chosen perfectly, and upon completion of the renovation, “Snow White” not only did not lose its external characteristics, but was also updated.
You can find out how much any repair costs by calling or sending your question through the form on our website:
You can estimate the cost of the work by sending us a photo by email [email protected]
In SKR there is an opportunity to purchase spare parts for your car. All spare parts are ordered to our customers at purchase prices. The price for any repair in our car service does not exceed the price for a similar repair in any other car service. There are a lot of car repair shops offering Lada car repair services in a city like St. Petersburg. But high-quality repairs, combined with a wide range of repair services, are practically non-existent.
SKR is a high quality Lada repair in any area of car repair!
Contacts:
The SKR body repair station is located in St. Petersburg, on the street. Novorossiyskaya, 53 Lit.B, on the border of the Vyborg and Kalinin districts. The nearest metro station is Ploshchad Muzhestva.
Address: St. Petersburg, st. Novorossiyskaya, 53 Lit.B
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How to make silent locks on a Priora: manual installation of new silent locks on a Priora
You can use a pin during installation. Its use will allow you to hold the internal lock, the “failure” of which will require removing the door trim, and also significantly speed up the installation process.
The installation of the locks themselves occurs in several stages. In the first stage, the lock is threaded with the top part (hole) through the above-mentioned pin, resulting in the inner lock in place, and the lower bolt of the silent lock is already connected to the inner lock.
The inner and outer lock are fixed, meaning there is no need for further use of a pin. All that remains is to tighten the top part of the lock. Guided by these instructions, the locks are installed on the remaining three doors, and no additional questions should arise regarding how to make silent locks on the Priora.
After installing each of the locks, it is necessary to check their operation without taking into account the installation of the silent bolt. If excessive force is applied when opening/closing the door, the new lock requires adjustment. The lock is adjusted using the counter part of the silent lock mechanism.
At this point, the installation process is almost complete, and all that remains is to put plastic covers on each of the locks. The result of the work carried out to replace standard Priora locks, although silent, with original silent Ptimash locks will not be long in coming. The ringing of doors completely disappears, and the opening/closing mechanism works like on a foreign car.
New Lada: How to remove the dashboard of Lada Largus » Lada.Online - all the most interesting and useful about LADA cars
A more worthy result can only be obtained in conjunction with additional door noise, as well as the replacement/installation of vertical seals. Today, the price of silent locks on Priora allows you to replace them almost immediately after purchasing the car.
Operating principle of the locking mechanism
Largus is a domestically produced van, but the locking device in it is no different from the mechanism of passenger cars. Internal parts are interconnected. A person can open or close a car from the inside using a button, but from the outside only with a key, master key or other homemade techniques.
When the door opens, the pins move apart; when closed, they go into the grooves. The core of the lock is framed by a plastic box. The cylinder and inner cylinder are a one-piece lock of a standard configuration. If the moving elements do not fit into the metal niche, blocking occurs.
- creaking, grinding;
- heavy key travel;
- jamming, jamming;
- broken opening element;
- the key does not go all the way into the hole.
When purchasing a kit, you should choose the catalog version of the manufacturer. The set will provide devices for all doors and trunk. The average price varies from 1200 to 2000 rubles for factory products.
A single copy of the lock can only be found at auto wrecking yards or in private stores; instructions and tools are included in the kit.
Three plus two
The 16-valve engine comes to life at the mere thought of turning the ignition key. You can’t expect any revelations from the 105-horsepower unit in combination with the Logan gearbox. Selectivity is not exemplary, but sufficient so as not to confuse transmissions. But the problem is with the clutch: you need to release the creaking pedal carefully until you feel the forward movement of the entire car. There are no other signs that the discs have closed.
New Lada: At what mileage should the catalyst be changed - Lada Largus Club - Lada Largus forum
The gear ratios are selected in a unique way: the first three gears are for starting off, two more are for driving. You can joke around, but you won’t get any quick starts—the damned clutch pedal gets in the way. And the itching of the engine, trying to rev up to maximum power, does not bring pleasure.
So let's turn off our temperament and start making discoveries. The first of them: “Largus” is very quiet. If the speedometer shows a decent 80–90 km/h, then the loudest sound in the cabin will be the creaking from the skin of your hands rubbing against the skin of the steering wheel. Even Amtel-Planet tires behave decently and don’t intrude into the cabin with their karaoke.
The second discovery: the large and tall station wagon does not roll at all - or rather, it does it very delicately: you wouldn’t expect such moderation in bowing from a car with a high center of gravity. Driving fast in turns is much easier than driving in a straight line!
And finally, the third discovery: the Largus has an incredibly armor-piercing suspension. How good “Logan” was, but the Tolyatti version is even better! Attacks from artificial and natural bumps are carried out with frightening ease. Note to the owner: if you see the Largus in front of you, don’t even think about driving on a bad road at its pace. Take care of your pendant!
Motor revision
Perhaps the main positive impression I received behind the wheel was from the upgraded 1.6-liter 8-valve engine, which added 3 hp. (now 90 hp) and received a new designation VAZ-11182 (instead of the previous VAZ-11189). Work to improve the connecting rod and piston group, modernize the crankshaft and gas distribution mechanism was not in vain.
Review of Manufacturer Prices
Name/article | Price, rub.) |
External handle 11180-6205151-00 | From 425 |
RENAULT/LADA 11180-6205151-00 | From 385 |
11180-6205150-00 | From 420 |
Internal handle 21900-6205181-00 | From 135 |
21900-6205180-00 | —/— |
Bolt M5×10 00001-0038331-21 | From 10 |
Nut M5 00001-0038318-01 | From 10 |
Screw M6×10 00001-0032759-01 | —/— |
Lock washer 00001-0026053-71 | —/— |
*prices are current as of November 28, 2018.
Recommendations for selection
Without a doubt, when choosing, give preference to parts with factory catalog numbers. Purchase consumables exclusively from official representative offices, service stations, and auto stores.
Before purchasing, check the catalog numbers of parts with the actual data specified in the operating instructions. If such a book is not available, seek advice from service center specialists, download recommendations from the Internet.
From nose to tail
Unfortunately for me, I was born and almost grew up in the USSR, a country in which the main consumer quality of a car was considered to be the absence of defects in its assembly. That’s why I have an unconditional reflex to the Togliatti boat - to feel what’s wrong with the car.
In the case of the Largus, the flaw detection session began at the threshold of the driver's door: the eye was scratched by a carelessly laid seal. After such a hint, attention is concentrated exclusively on the shortcomings. Above the Logan instrument panel, covered with a silver “stencil,” a dangling figured visor was discovered.
So. Breathe and calm down. The standard radio looks quite decent. The quality of the plastic is excellent, the buttons are not loose, the USB connector not only works, but is even compatible with iPods. Wow, there’s Bluetooth here too!
The backrest adjustment of the driver's seat is stepless. This is a plus - especially in the absence of longitudinal steering wheel adjustment. Fathers, the designers even provided lumbar support! I turn the round handle: my lower back doesn’t feel anything, but the lateral support disappears. No, it’s better to return it the way it was: you still can’t get rid of the excessive springiness of the back.
The seat height adjustment is jackless, using the “jumping” method. This is not scary: for example, this is also the case with cheap versions of BMW. There is an invisible seat heating button hidden next to the handle. There is no indication, but it doesn’t matter either - it wouldn’t be visible anyway. There is no mirror in the driver's sun visor, but it is assigned to the passenger. However, they didn’t think of covering it up: you can save yourself from the sun only by looking intently into your own eyes.
In general, savings are all around. But still, “Largus” is not an ascetic car: there is no feeling of poverty in it. The plastic, of course, is not soft, but it looks very noble. Silver door handles play under your fingers, but this is a problem with most Renaults - so why should the Lada be better? But there is a height adjustment of the seat belts, and the passenger airbag can be turned off. By the way, before meeting me, the experienced VAZ mechanic had no idea about the purpose of the airbag switch!
Largus is happy to welcome guests in the second row. He kindly lets them in through the large doorway and does not force them to prop up the backs of the front seats with their knees. Please make yourself comfortable! Do you have hand luggage? Well, it can be placed on the luggage rack.
It is quite possible for three of us to ride on the middle sofa, but an attempt to comply with traffic regulations threatens a yoga session for the one who volunteered to sit in the middle: in order to use the seat belt, he will have to stretch all the way to the opening of the rear hinged doors. Having taken out the tail with two buckles (it’s a three-point belt!), it should be threaded through the “eye of the needle” and only then fastened. Not easy.
No! If I had a chance to ride in the back of a Largus, I would simply fold down the middle row and sit in third. There is no need to reach for a belt, the windows open slightly, cup holders securely hold almost any container, and your legs can be extended to their full length. But even with the “working” middle row in the back, there is enough space to carry tall passengers. True, it is not easy for people taller than 180 cm to climb onto a two-seater sofa - the high floor gets in the way.
New Lada: LADA Largus Cross CNG from RUB 824,900. – Prices and configurations – Official LADA website