Characteristics of the power window control unit for Lada Priora, repair and replacement

If the window regulator does not work, the malfunction can be caused by two reasons - problems in the electrical or mechanical parts. In some cases, the part can be repaired, but in others, all that remains is to remove the non-working window regulator and replace it with a new device. What are the features of electrical and mechanical malfunctions of Lada Priora windows? How to properly replace the mechanism? Let's look at these questions in more detail.

Mechanical problems

Failures in the mechanical part can be detected without ignition. Below are the main malfunctions of this type:

Recession of the shield.
Worn gear bearing.
Worn teeth on the gear of the device.
The window regulator is jammed due to oxidation of the moving elements.
Damage to the cable mechanism. During operation, stretching or damage to integrity is possible, which in the future often leads to the cable slipping off the guide rollers.

Electrical faults

In a situation where the window regulator on a Lada Priora car does not work, the cause may be a malfunction in the electrical part, namely:

Fuse F31 has blown. This is where you should start checking in the event of a mechanism failure. The fuse link is located in the power control mounting block. If an element burns out due to a short circuit, replace it. At the same time, make sure that the wiring is intact.
Faulty motor brushes of the electric drive (they may stick or freeze). A similar problem is possible if the graphite brushes overheat. As a result, the plastic socket in which they are installed melts. The shields “stick” to the hole and stop moving.
The voltage at the input to the electric motor has disappeared. If the window regulator does not work, one of the reasons is a break in the supply circuit. Look for such a breakdown of the Priora in the control unit or in the relay. It will be useful to clean the contact group.

Video: Repair of the front door window regulator on the Lada Priora

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If the mechanism itself breaks down, it needs to be replaced.

Features of power windows on the Lada Priora

Like many other cars, the Lada Priora has sliding windows on the front and rear doors. They are moved up and down using power windows, which are controlled using a button on the door. The driver of the car controls the movement of all windows, and the passenger controls only his own.

There are two types of car window lifters - cable and rack and pinion. In Lada Priora cars, the design of the mechanism has much in common with devices on other models. The main difference is the absence of a power window unit. The functions of the device are taken over by the TsBKE - a built-in controller that controls the electrical package. It is located in close proximity to the ECU.

Power is supplied to the window lifting mechanism according to a slightly different principle. One wire performs several functions at once, thanks to the ability to change polarity, depending on the task at hand - controlling mirrors, central locking or power. That is why, if the window regulator does not work, it is not possible to immediately find the reason.

Video: Replacing a window regulator on a Lada Priora - highlights

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How to remove a window regulator and install a new part

To remove the window regulator, prepare the necessary tools. To work, you will need wedges (made of wood or plastic), as well as a ten key. Please note that the removal and installation of mechanisms on all doors (rear and front) are identical.

To dismantle the window regulator on the Lada Priora, do the following:

De-energize the vehicle's on-board network by removing the negative voltage from the battery.
Remove the door trim.
Raise and lower the window. This is required to gain access, through the top of the door, to the bolted connections holding the glass to the mechanism slider. Remove the bolts.
Raise the glass manually to the top position as far as it will go and secure it using prepared wedges made of wood or plastic.
Discard the block with wires from the mechanism that lifts the windows.
Unscrew the nuts that hold the gear motor.
Unscrew the nuts holding the mechanism guide.

Once all the fasteners are removed, remove the window regulator through the special hole. During the dismantling process, check the reliability of the glass fixation. At the end of the work, return all the parts to their place using the reverse algorithm. If you do everything according to the instructions, then removing the window regulator and then putting it back in place will not be a problem.

Video: Removing the window regulator on the Lada Priora

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When purchasing a new window mechanism, be careful - study the markings and choose exactly the same window regulator. Check the installed device for quality of installation and make sure it is operational. Make sure that the glass closes tightly and that there are no gaps or distortion. If such defects are detected, loosen the screws that hold the glass frame to the slide. Finally, set the correct position through the oval holes in the slider.

If the window regulator on a Priora does not work, start by identifying the problem and then proceed to fix it. If the problem lies in the mechanism itself, or the breakdown cannot be repaired on site, then you will need to remove the window regulator for repair or replacement. At the same time, be careful and take into account the features of the mechanism in this car.

This is interesting: Which shock absorbers are better, gas or oil?

Installing a courtesy light for rear passengers

January 23, 2022 Lada.Online 25 273 1

Lada Granta, Lada Kalina and Lada Priora are budget cars, so they do not have all the comfort options. For example, in the interior of these models there is no second lamp for rear passengers. However, you can install the ceiling lamp for the rear row with your own hands. Let's talk about all the features of this modification.

Window lifters (or, to use a more familiar word, “window lifters”), as the name suggests, are designed to raise/lower windows.

The option under consideration refers to the electric window lifter

(although in a number of models only mechanical ones are provided for rear windows), i.e. manipulations with the side windows are carried out using electrical energy.

It is convenient and practical, creating additional comfort for the driver and passengers

It is pleasant to note that domestic manufacturers paid due attention to this indicator

How to remove the heater radiator on a Priora without air conditioning

Since its release, AvtoVAZ has installed a heater from the “ten” on the Priora (catalog number: 21110-8101012). The drawback of this design was that the heater radiator is removed towards the vacuum brake booster, which allows this to be done. For this reason, the heater assembly has to be dismantled.

Remove the wipers.
Remove the frill (wind flap).
Remove the soundproofing of the engine shield.
Disconnect a bunch of connectors with wires.
Unscrew the heater mountings.
Divide the heater into two parts (left and right).
Remove the right side of the heater (in the direction of travel).
Move the left side to the side to gain access to the heater radiator.
Drain the antifreeze.
Replace
the heater radiator.

Sources:

https://priora-remont.ru/zamena-steklopodemnika-v-sbore/ https://foreXS-online.ru/vaz/kak-pomenyat-motorchik-pechki-na-priore.html https://avtoshkolak.ru /ustrojsTVo/kak-snyat-motorchik-pechki-na-lada-priora.html

Electrical package control unit: vehicle electrical equipment is under control

March 8, 2018

In modern cars, all electrical equipment is combined into a single system called an electrical package. The control of the electrical package is entrusted to special electronic units - read all about these devices, their design and functionality, as well as the correct selection and replacement in the article.

What is an electrical package control unit?

Electrical package control unit (electrical package controller, comfort unit, central body electronics unit) - a component of the vehicle’s electrical system; an electronic device based on microprocessors/microcontrollers that acts as a central control unit for auxiliary systems and electronic components of the vehicle in order to increase its comfort and safety.

In modern cars and many trucks, various electrical equipment - power windows, external and internal lighting and light alarms, door locks, rear-view mirror drives and others - are assembled into a single system called an electrical package (EP). The functions of monitoring and control of the electric drive are assigned to the central control unit (controller). The use of an electrical package control unit allows you to implement various control schemes for automotive electrical equipment:

Manual control via appropriate switches on the dashboard, doors, steering column switch, etc.;
Remote control of electrical equipment using a car alarm or telematics system;
Automatic control of certain elements in accordance with the state of the vehicle, engine controller and on-board computer;
Automatic control of the main elements that ensure the safety of the car (central locking, windows, lights) when the status of the car alarm and/or immobilizer changes.

Thus, the electrical package control unit allows you to increase the comfort and safety of the car, as well as expand the functionality of its electrical system by using the advantages and capabilities of the CAN, LIN, K-Line and other data transmission protocols.

A malfunction of the electric drive controller can completely disrupt the functioning of the vehicle's electrical equipment, so this unit must be replaced as soon as possible. To make the right purchase of a new unit, you need to understand the existing types of these devices, their features and functionality.

Internal structure of the electrical package control unit

All modern electronic controllers are built on the basis of microprocessors or microcontrollers, which take on the functions of controlling electrical equipment circuits. The processors contain algorithms for controlling equipment in various situations - during manual control, in automatic mode, etc. Direct control of the equipment is carried out using small-sized electromagnetic relays or electronic switches based on powerful field-effect transistors.

Electronic components are located on a printed circuit board, which is installed in a plastic case; connection to electrical equipment is made using standard electrical connectors. One to three connectors can be installed on one block; often the power and control circuits are separated, and separate connectors are used to connect to them.

The electrical package control unit is located under the dashboard or under the center console; it is usually installed near the relay and fuse mounting block - this reduces the length of cables between these units. The unit is mounted with screws or using a metal bracket.

Types and functionality of electrical package control units

Electrical package control units used in various vehicles may differ in functionality and operating features, but in general they are responsible for controlling the following electrical equipment:

Windows on all doors and window locking mechanism;
Drive of external (side) rear-view mirrors;
Heated exterior mirrors;
Heated rear window;
Heated front seats;
Central locking;
Locking mechanism and locks of the trunk and hood;
Front and rear direction indicators;
Interior lighting - lamp on the ceiling, lamps on the central pillars, lamps on the thresholds, luggage compartment lighting;
Dashboard lighting;
Exterior lighting devices - fog lights and rear fog lights, side lights, reversing lights.

How to replace the heater fan on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

Removal: 1) There are two ways by which you can remove the stove fan, we will tell you both, but before we start describing them, let’s talk about them briefly, and which one you will use during the work is up to you to decide, the first method is in removing the throttle assembly, in removing the front panel upholstery and in removing the cooling expansion tank, the second method does not imply this; when choosing the second method, you will only need to unscrew the screws and nuts securing the fan and then remove it from the car.

Note! It would seem that the second method is much more convenient and faster, in fact it is, it is done much faster but is very inconvenient, because in this case you will have to get to hard-to-reach nuts, as well as hard-to-reach screws, etc. etc., while when carrying out the second method, you will no longer need to crawl to hard-to-reach places, all the nuts and screws will be before your eyes, but you will still spend more time, because you will remove other parts that are in the first way and you won’t need to touch it!

2) After you have decided and made your choice, go to work; at the beginning of the operation, in any case, you will need to remove the windshield lining (How to remove the lining, read the article: “Replacing the cabin filter on a LADA Priore”), then the block Disconnect the wires and the connector from each other (They are indicated by a red arrow) and remove the wire block from the additional resistor (It is connected to it, this block is indicated in both photographs by a blue arrow), these are all general operations and will need to be carried out in any case.

3) Read this point only if you are carrying out the second method, but if you don’t want to remove anything unnecessary and if you are not going to do the work using the second method, then in this case go straight to point 4, so about the second method, if it First, you will need to remove the throttle assembly (How to do this, read the article: “Replacing the throttle assembly on a car”), but only when you remove it, do not disconnect any hoses, but simply unscrew the nuts that secure the assembly to the receiver and then remove it, and as soon as the assembly is removed, proceed to removing the dashboard upholstery, to do this, use a screwdriver to loosen the screw that secures the steam removal hose to the cooling expansion tank (This is the tank into which coolant needs to be poured, you will immediately find it), loosening the screw, disconnect the hose from the tank and lead it through the hole in the upholstery (see photo 1), then lift the expansion tank and without disconnecting any other hoses from it, carefully move it, otherwise it will interfere with removing the upholstery, then again, use a screwdriver to unscrew it but this once the lower screw, which secures the upholstery (see. photo 2) and the left part of the upholstery (look as the car is moving) remove from the car, then find three clamps that are attached to the clamps and secure the vacuum brake booster hose so that it does not dangle, and so, overcoming the force of the clamps, remove them from the brackets ( see photo 3), immediately after which, using a socket wrench or wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the steering rack screen in the upper part (see photo 4), as soon as the nut is unscrewed, pull this metal screen and remove it from the top the studs and finally the right (last part) of the upholstery (see photo 5) from the car and bend up the end of the brake pedal bracket (see photo 6).

4) Now unscrew the three screws and one side nut securing the heater on the right; if your upholstery has been removed, then it will be very convenient for you, after unscrewing, pull the heater out of the place where it is installed outward so that you can remove the heater fan.

5) After the heater has been removed a sufficient distance, unscrew the three screws securing the fan (Two of them are indicated by red arrows in the photo and they are already almost unscrewed), disconnect the electric motor ventilation hose from it (Indicated by a blue arrow) and then remove the fan (If if necessary, then use a flat screwdriver to pry it up from the bottom), as shown in the small photo, but just keep in mind one fact: when you put a new or old (It doesn’t matter) fan in its place, install it in such a way that the ventilation hose of the electric motor which is indicated by the blue arrow, looked towards the branch pipe that is present on the stove fan; if you install the fan on the wrong side, then simply do not connect this hose to the branch pipe, but it must be put on the stove fan branch pipe.

Note! If you have not removed the throttle assembly and the front panel upholstery, then it will simply not be very convenient for you to unscrew the screws and nuts securing the heater and you will also have to work hard to remove the heater to a sufficient distance, thanks to which you can replace the fan, but this is possible for some people So they replace the stove fan with a new one!

Installation: Reinstallation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, do not forget about the cabin filter, if it is too dirty, replace it with a new one.

Additionally It’s better to watch it so that all unnecessary doubts and questions disappear.

Replacing the heater radiator on a LADA Priora (with and without air conditioning)

One of the reasons why the heater does not work well is the heater radiator. During the operation of the car, it begins to leak and is no longer able to transfer the required amount of heat to the interior. Depending on the year of manufacture and configuration of the LADA Priora, the process of removing the heater (radiator) can vary greatly.

Removing and installing the Priora stove motor.

how to remove the interior heater motor Priora 217230 1 part.

READ Replacing stabilizer bushings for Renault Duster

The whole procedure took several hours. This is shown in more detail in

There is another way to replace it. To gain access to the heater radiator, instead of the heater housing, it is necessary to remove the vacuum brake booster along with the brake pedal. This allows access to the left side of the heater (in the direction of travel) and to the radiator itself.

Replacing the Priora stove motor

Replacing the heater fan on a VAZ Priora with your own hands.

Troubleshooting

Minor breakdowns include glass rattling, noise in the window lifter, free movement of glass under mechanical influence (for example, the glass does not rise or fall with the lifter, but the same can be done by hand). Their cause is skewed glass, failure of rollers or cables. If the glass is skewed, it must be adjusted. If the cable is broken, it must be replaced. If the cable comes off the rollers, you need to pull it back and adjust the car window regulator. The occurrence of noise is a sign that the mechanism is poorly lubricated. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to thoroughly lubricate all the power window mechanisms, as well as the glass guides. If the mechanism operates slowly, it should also be lubricated or replaced with a new one. Over time, the speed of lowering and raising the windows decreases due to wear and tear on the window lift motor.

Reasons for handle breakage

Often, replacing the power window handle will only temporarily fix the problem. Soon the new handle also fails. The reason is that the glass goes down and up too tightly, so you have to put excessive stress on the rather fragile plastic part. In this case, you must first eliminate the cause of the stuck glass or window regulator, and then change the handle.

It’s easy to check the operation of the mechanism - just raise and lower the window.

There are several reasons for the mechanism to jam:

twisted drive cable;
glass distortion;
poor lubrication in the mechanism;
freezing of ice (in winter).

If the window regulator works hard, you need to remove the door trim, find and eliminate the cause: change the lubricant, melt the ice or replace the faulty mechanism.

Another reason for handle breakage is worn-out window drive splines. In this case, it is necessary to replace the window lifter mechanism with a new one and only then change the handle.

Video “How to change a joint venture with an electric motor on Kalina”

Detailed instructions for completing this task are presented below (the author of the video is In Sandro’s garage).

The question of why the window regulator does not work is often asked by Lada Kalina owners on specialized forums and service stations. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, due to the low reliability of the design. In some cases, the part can be repaired, but in others, all that remains is to remove the non-working window regulator and replace it with a new device. What can cause the mechanism to fail? How to make a replacement? Let's look at these points in detail.

Causes of malfunction

The main reasons why the window regulator does not work on Lada Kalina cars include:

Stuck electric motor brushes. Such a malfunction is possible in case of overheating of the brushes, which do not tolerate sudden temperature changes. As a result of such a negative impact, the plastic socket melts, as well as loss of brush mobility. At the first sign of a problem, knock on the plastic door trim. If you delay this, then you won’t be able to correct the situation with little effort—you’ll have to interfere with the design of the product.
The reason that the window regulator does not work is often the lack of thought through the electrical circuit of the mechanism. The weak link in the chain is the contacts, which cannot withstand the currents passing through them. As a result, the power windows of the Lada Kalina fail due to the lack of a unloading relay. This means that if the mechanism breaks down, repairs to the power windows and control panel may be required.

Practice shows that in most cases, it is not possible to repair the unit, or considerable effort must be made to do so. That's why the best solution is to install new window regulators.

How to remove a window regulator and install a new part

Start work on dismantling the faulty mechanism from the front doors, but to remove the window regulator, free the door from the trim.

To complete the task, do the following:

Raise the glass to the top point and secure it with tape. It does not matter which window lifter the work will be carried out on - the sequence of work will be the same on any front door.
Take a ten-size wrench and unscrew the pair of bolts that hold the glass in place. Also unscrew the lock handle screw from the inside.
Disconnect the electric motor and wiring from the electric motor supply circuit.
Unscrew the eleven nuts on the mechanism, after which you can remove the window regulator.

Video: Replacing the electric window and motor on the Lada Kalina and Grant

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When performing work on the rear doors, the procedure will be almost identical. Do the following:

Raise the glass to the top position and secure it according to the principle discussed above.
Using an eight-socket wrench, unscrew the three nuts that hold the assembly in place.
Take a ten key, unscrew a couple of screws and three more nuts.
Remove the assembly through the hole formed at the bottom of the door.
Remove the rear door window regulator of the Lada Kalina and inspect it.
If the problem can be corrected without replacement, have the device repaired. If the breakdown is fatal, for example, the window lift motor or gear is broken, then installation of a new mechanism is required.

If the window regulator does not work, start by determining the cause of the breakdown, and then decide on the urgency of repairing the mechanism. If the malfunction is serious, the only solution is to remove the Lada Kalina window regulator for restoration work or a complete replacement.

Types of compatible window regulators

One of the most common models on the aftermarket is the window regulator for the Priora Forward. This model of electric lift is made in a combined arrangement of the drive and the actual rack-and-pinion lifting mechanism, compactly combined with the glass guide. Lifts of this model are characterized by increased reliability and ease of installation on Priora.

Garnet is the second most popular system. Under this name there is not even a single model, but a whole family, each modification of which is intended for a specific car. The mechanism is also rack and pinion type and has earned many good reviews from car enthusiasts. This type of lifts is characterized by uninterrupted operation, fast speed of raising/lowering the glass, and low noise.

It has already been said above about glass closers. In the luxury package they are available on all doors, but their performance leaves much to be desired. It is necessary to resort to replacement with other similar devices. One of the available alternatives is the Master system. It allows you to automatically raise the windows when the anti-theft system is turned on, and even control them within half an hour from the moment the ignition is turned off. The device itself looks like an electronic board with connectors connected to the standard Priora wiring.

The master is not very expensive (from 700 rubles), and its installation does not affect the door trim in any way. The whole procedure consists of removing the rear door sill trims, bending the sound insulation and connecting the door closer to the connector.

For the front doors, the Master will by default raise and lower the windows without ignition, and for the rear doors you need to install a slightly different version, called Master Plus. There are no differences in installation, the main thing is not to forget to disconnect the negative battery before starting work. The wizard has many other useful functions, for example, it automatically turns off the radio when the car is armed.

Description of the electrical package control unit

The electrical package controller in Priora is a device used to control the functionality of the vehicle. This unit is responsible for the operation of turn signals, power windows, control panel lighting, dimensions, fog lights, interior lighting, and rear window heating system. This device also ensures the normal operation of the reversing lights. The fact that the car is equipped with this device makes it even more practical.

Priorovsky electrical package control controller

Location

The control device on the Priora is located above the electronic engine control unit, at the bottom of the center console, in the middle. In this case, the device is connected using two connectors - power and information. The power output is used to supply voltage to the control unit, and the information output is used to perform the functions of the device. It should also be noted that the control unit is protected from external influences of dirt and moisture.

In general, this device is a circuit installed in a plastic case. The board itself includes 15 chips, each of them performing certain functions. This is the entire electrical part of the car, including power windows, door open sensors and a control system for external electric mirrors (the author of the video is the CompsMaster channel).

terms of Use

In order for the node to operate normally, certain conditions must be met:

the air temperature level in the car interior should be from -45 to +40 degrees;
the air humidity level in the cabin should be no more than 90%;
The voltage parameter for normal operation should vary around 9-15 volts;
The atmospheric pressure level should be up to 800 mm Hg.

As practice shows, malfunctions in the operation of this device often appear as a result of its overheating or disconnection of wires or contacts inside the structure. If you are faced with the problem of a device failure, first of all you need to visually diagnose it. It is quite possible that the reason can be discovered only by looking at the device.

How to replace the heater fan on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

READ How to change radiator pipes Niva Chevrolet

Installation: Reinstallation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, do not forget about the cabin filter, if it is too dirty, replace it with a new one.

Additionally It’s better to watch it so that all unnecessary doubts and questions disappear.

AutoNews / Reviews / Tests

Replacing the heater motor on a Lada Priora with Pan Sonyk air conditioning

Replacing the heater motor on a Lada Priora with Pan Sonyk air conditioning.

Common faults

Malfunctions of the mechanism that raises the windows can be electrical or mechanical in nature. Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, you can do the repair yourself (video author: Xie Dan).

Mechanical failures can be detected without ignition.

The following are typical mechanical problems:

wear of the teeth on the device gear;
sunken shield;
a defective cable mechanism can stretch or deteriorate, and later during operation it will come off the guide rollers;
jamming of mechanisms due to oxidation of moving parts;
gearbox bearing wear.

Mechanical defects of the device

Among the electrical reasons why the power window on a Priora does not work are the following:

If all four power windows do not work, the first thing you should check is fuse number F31. It is located in the power management mounting block. If the element burns out as a result of a short circuit, it should be replaced. In this case, it is advisable to check all wiring.
Sticking or sticking of the brushes of the electric drive motor. This happens due to overheating of the graphite brushes, which melts the plastic nest in which they are located. Thus, the brushes stick to their nest and lose mobility.
No voltage at the motor terminals. The cause may be an open circuit. The fault must be looked for in the relay or control unit. In addition, the contacts should be cleaned.

Fuse block

If the mechanism itself that raises the windows is faulty, then it needs to be replaced.

Procedure when the window regulator does not work

The Priora power window circuit differs from the usual ones, which use a relay and a power window fuse

. AVTOVAZ made the glass control using an electrical package control controller (TSBKE), which is located near the ECU.

In the mounting block, check the TsBKE fuse (F31, 30A).

Remove the door trim and check the voltage at the power window

using a multimeter or a 12V test lamp.

If there is no voltage, then check the serviceability:

window control unit (buttons in doors)
wiring (connector connection)
electrical package control unit, which is located above the ECU unit (more on this below)

If current flows to the electric motor, but the glass does not move, then we check:

malfunction of the window lift
(for example, the drive motor brushes are stuck/sticking, the plastic gear in the gearbox is worn out)
The window lift cable is frayed
glass is jammed (distorted)

The most common problems with power windows are:

Faulty double-glazed window control unit (GCU)
Window lift motor malfunction
Skewed, broken power window cable
Poor contact

Replacing the window regulator and its motor

This article will consider this type of Priora repair, such as replacing the electric window mechanism assembled with the motor. Of course, if your electric motor has failed, then there is no need to change the entire mechanism. Regarding the motor, it will be shown below how to change it.

Necessary tool for replacing the window regulator on a Priora

10 mm head
Extension
Ratchet or crank

How to remove the front window lift mechanism assembly

The first step is to perform a procedure such as removing the front door trim. After this, unscrew the two bolts securing the glass to the bracket on the lift. The bolts will only be accessible when the glass is raised up. This is clearly shown in the photo below.

To prevent the glass from falling down during this repair, it is necessary to fix it by placing something between it and the inside of the door. Next, you can unscrew all the power window mounting nuts.

This mechanism is attached in several places:

from above, in the place where the glass is fixed, and also a little higher in the very corner of the structure
below also in the corner
and closer to the center of the door where the motor is installed - there are three nuts

Then disconnect the plug with the power wires by simply pulling both ends to the sides with a little force.

Next, we lower the structure so that the motor appears in a special opening:

It is through this that the entire structure should be removed from the door, which will be clearly shown in the photo.

And we remove it completely out so that further manipulations can be carried out.

Replacing the window lift motor of Lada Priora

As mentioned above, the most common reason is the failure of the electric motor. And in this paragraph we will consider the procedure for replacing it. First, you need to turn the mechanism over so that the pins are facing us.

Turn out all three studs
Using a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the motor housing to the window regulator.
We separate the two parts of the structure and install the new electric motor in place

Video review of replacing front electric windows on a Priora

This video is embedded from my YouTube channel.

I hope that the replacement process is shown in the most accessible and understandable way!

The price of the motor is from 600 rubles, but for the entire assembled mechanism you will have to pay at least 1000 rubles. The Priora has lifts from the VAZ 2110, so you shouldn’t look for “Prior” ones.

Window lifter.RF › Blog › Replacing the rear right electric window on a LADA Priora

Our buyer Ivan Igorevich Fokin from Moscow sent his next photo report on replacing the rear electric window on a LADA Priora car as part of his participation in our promotion.

In our Lada Priora the problem occurred again, only the window regulator on the rear right door broke. It was decided to order a window lifter, but not as an assembly, as last time, but separately the mechanism itself without a gearmotor.

Electric window lift for VAZ-2110 rear right without gearmotor.

Tools: shaped screwdriver, star screwdriver, 10 socket, 22 socket, plastic tool, adhesive tape, electrical tape, scissors.

We unscrew the screws from the panels, only 3 pieces - red arrow.

Take a tool for plastic. We use it to pry the panels in the direction as indicated in the photo, and remove them to the side. Again, use this tool to remove the door panel, starting from the lower left corner, moving in a counterclockwise direction, and unfasten the panel clips. Having unfastened the panel with clips, lift it up, the panel is removed.

We remove all the insulation so that it does not interfere.

Unscrew the nuts - red arrow.

We lower the glass a little in order to remove the strip from the door body mounted on the bolts.

Raise the glass to its highest position and secure it with tape.

We remove the engine bolts and racks from their mounted places and pull out the old window regulator through the corner.

After we have pulled out the power window, unscrew the 4 screws and use a 22mm head to unscrew the bolt/nut with a rubber surface, removing the gear motor cover.

We “throw” the gear motor onto the new window lifter and tighten the bolt/nuts, after which we connect it to the chip and check its functionality. As a result, there are 4 screws left that are not used.

In the reverse order, we insert the window regulator and, first of all, install the engine on the bolts with the nuts. Perform subsequent manipulations strictly in reverse order.

Thank you, Ivan Igorevich, for another prepared photo report. We will transfer the promised prize to your mobile phone account.

Notes on implementation of schemes

Let us immediately note: if there are no window lifters, the second diagram will not contain parts K2/K3. Then you only need to cut one wire. Sometimes only the rear windows are missing. This means that relay K3 is excluded. And the diodes connected in parallel with the winding can be absolutely anything.

Now we list the requirements for an element called “relay”:

Operation voltage – 12 Volts;
Switching current – 10 A or higher;
The current consumed by all relay windings should not exceed the value specified in the instructions for the signaling. Usually it is 200-300 mA.

It is the last requirement that is often violated.

In order for “scheme 2” to work, it is necessary not only to assemble it, but also to program the main unit: you need to enable the “2-step unlocking” option. And be that as it may, control impulses cannot be made too long. Use values of 0.7-1.1 seconds.

Power cables (cord X1-6) can only be connected using twists.

The cross-sectional area of the wire must be sufficient to withstand a current of “10 Amps” (this does not apply to signal circuits). A fuse protecting the power circuits must be installed. And of course, before installation, remove the negative terminal of the battery.

Removing the Priora heater fan

Required. remove the throttle assembly and move it to the side, remove the frill and sound insulation of the engine shield. Prepare a Phillips and flathead screwdriver.

Bend the end of the brake pedal bracket upward.
Unfasten and cut the clamp securing the heater fan wire block.
Disconnect the block with wires from the heater fan by pressing the lock.

Disconnect the block with wires from the additional resistor. Then unscrew the self-tapping screw and nuts securing the heater so that you can move it forward (see “Removing the heater heater”).
Disconnect the fan ventilation hose from the nozzle.
Unscrew the 3 self-tapping screws securing the heater fan using a Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the Priora heater fan together with the impeller from the heater housing by prying it off the flange with a flat-head screwdriver.

The fan flange is attached to the heater through rubber pads. To replace them, remove the plastic bushings and then remove the cushions from the holes in the fan flange.

Installation of rear windows on Lada Priora. Complete instructions

Car owners of the model of the same name would do well to know what it means to install rear windows on a Lada Priora

– more precisely, to have at least general information about the complex of works united by this concept. We will try to describe the process in detail, noting some related points that will undoubtedly bring practical benefits to domestic car enthusiasts. Installing rear windows on a Priora has a number of specific features. But first things first.

The concept of "power window"

Window lifting mechanisms (or, using the more familiar word “window lifters”), as the name suggests, are designed to raise/lower windows.

In the variant under consideration we mean an electric window lifter.

(although in a number of models only mechanical ones are provided for the rear windows), that is, manipulations with the side windows are carried out using electrical energy.

It is convenient and practical, creating additional comfort for the driver and passengers

It is pleasant to note that domestic manufacturers paid due attention to this indicator

Design features

The steps described below are focused on the removal/installation of electric lifts, which does not exclude the use of this text:

manuals for mechanical joint ventures;
The mechanism is placed inside the door (there are, however, modifications with special subframes, as well as mounts on the car body).

The window regulator consists of:

about what includes a unit consisting of an electric motor, gear and worm gear;
mechanical regulator for raising/lowering windows;
control unit.

Raising or lowering the glass is done by pressing the corresponding key. Note that on the Lada Priora, three types of electric windows (hereinafter referred to as ESP) are used: rack and pinion, cable, and strip. Various configurations are used - this applies to both a specific design solution and electric motors.

The latter vary over a fairly wide range - a number of models use various imported electric motors. The noise depends on the quality of this part

, produced by the device, the speed of raising/lowering the glass, resistance to external influences.

Installation of rear ESP

The need to replace the ESP may arise for a number of reasons. The most common ones are:

the corresponding fuse has blown;
poor-quality connection of wires and, as a result, lack of contact;
failure of the electric motor.

In any of the above cases, replacement (or repair) of the mechanism is necessary. Let’s make a reservation right away - for most amateurs, self-repair is a difficult task, so it will not be considered here. We will simply describe the process of removing the mechanism - accordingly, installation is carried out in the reverse order.

At the first stage

We get access to the ESP. To do this, you need to remove the decorative edge. The process is quite simple and does not require additional description. Let us remind you that the windows must be pre-fixed in the “closed” position.

Next stage:

unscrewing the mounting bolts. We use a 10mm socket. Then we turn out the elements with which the ESP is attached to the door. Here you will have to deal with three bolts (we use an “8” head). Armed again with a “10” socket, we unscrew the nuts securing the ESP guide.

This completes the dismantling. As already mentioned, installation is done in reverse order.

video: Installing a power window mechanism on the rear left door of a Priora Luxury.

As you can see, installing rear window regulators on a Priora is not difficult: you just need to unscrew the corresponding bolts. Please remember that this process requires care.

, proportionate application of force to avoid the danger of the heads falling off. As for the unit being replaced, specialists will have to deal with it.

Removal and installation instructions

To carry out the work, you will need a “10” key and plastic or wooden wedges. It is important to know how to remove the window regulator on the front doors; dismantling and installing the rear window regulators on the Priora is carried out in a similar way.

The procedure consists of the following steps:

First of all, for safety reasons, it is necessary to de-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
Next, the door trim is removed.
Then you need to raise or lower the glass so that there is access through the upper door opening to the bolts with which the glass frame is attached to the device slide. These bolts should be unscrewed.
At the next stage, you should lift the glass up to the end with your hands and secure its position with the help of prepared wedges.
Then you need to disconnect the block with the wiring harness from the window lifting mechanism.
After this, the nuts are unscrewed, thanks to which the gearmotor is held in place.
Then the fastening nuts of the device guide are unscrewed.
When all the nuts are unscrewed, the window regulator is removed through the technological hole. When removing the glass lifting mechanism, you need to ensure that the glass is securely fixed.
Installation of the device is carried out in the reverse order.

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When purchasing a new window lifter, you need to pay attention to its markings and select exactly the same one.

Replacing the Priora window lift motor

Hello everyone, dear subscribers and readers of the blog))) Just a couple of days ago, the driver's window lifter began to work poorly at times, I obviously already knew the reason, since about 2 weeks ago there was the same situation, and after disassembling the lifter I saw worn out brushes, then I just a little I stretched the springs and it worked again as before. Today I immediately went to a car and motorcycle store, bought brushes and when I arrived home I started doing repairs.

So, to begin with, I removed the trim, then unscrewed 6 nuts securing the window regulator and 2 bolts that secure the glass, with a couple of complicated movements and the window regulator was removed from the door))) After removal, I saw a not very pleasant picture

There was water in the motor, I don’t know how it got there, but that’s not good. Well, okay, I quickly disassembled the motor, removed the brushes and went home to solder new ones. But before this, it is necessary to fit new brushes, since they are longer. I took a metal file and carefully sawed it approximately in half; I will say in advance after soldering I adjusted the brushes using a round file.

In general, I soldered it, adjusted it to size and began to slowly put everything back together.

When assembling, I carefully coated everything with sealant, I hope it will help prevent water from entering. I assembled the motor and checked it before installation - everything works. I put the window regulator in place, adjusted the glass so that it wouldn’t warp when lifting, installed the trim, checked it again and, satisfied with the work, went to rest))))

The front ESP on the driver's side stopped working, at first I thought it was a button, but then I listened closely - the relay clicks, there are sounds, but it doesn't work. It was decided to disassemble. Step by step:

We unscrew the door closing pin, unscrew the self-tapping screw of the door opening handle:

Unscrew the 3 screws from the bottom of the upholstery.

We secure the glass with tape (I only had double tape)

Replacing the driver's door window lifter + door card noise

Replacing the driver's door window regulator is not a difficult task. The resource of the piece of iron is exhausted after 4-5 years of operation. I’ll note that about a month ago I took everything apart and patched up the structure—it was enough for exactly a month. Now it has been decided to replace it entirely with a new mechanism. Moreover, the price more than suited me. By today's price standards, and even more so in comparison with the same mechanisms for imported cars, the price of 455 rubles for a new factory window lifter trapezoid is very acceptable.

By the way, it comes complete with a motor. In this case, the price range is about 1000 rubles. Symptoms of failure are as follows:

First, compare the new part with the old one for possible differences. Although I checked it in the store using the catalog number.

Everything else is intuitive. We transfer the motor to a new part. A couple of deft movements and everything is cool. The only trouble that I definitely remember was the process of removing the trapezoid with the motor from the door itself. I had to tinker, to put it mildly, - it’s not so easy for him to get out of there. Well, if you have the scrupulousness of a macaque, everything will work out!

Next>>>> Along the way, it was decided to add some noise-absorbing materials to the already installed vibration noise. I wanted to take “Biplast Premium”, but it wasn’t available anywhere, so I took a slightly simpler material, just “Biplast” 10mm

Wash the door card (insider and offside), remove the top trim (attached with screws from the inside of the trim)

Source

"Kalina" and replacement of the window regulator

First you need to purchase a gearbox. Now they are sold in the same housing with the motor. Then the sheathing is done. Experts do not recommend performing this operation outdoors on a frosty day in winter, since the Kalina’s casing is secured to soft plastic pistons. If a fastener element falls off, you will have to glue it. Then you should unscrew the screws and other fasteners that hold the internal opening handle. The wiring harness and the speakers are disconnected.

The next step is to unscrew the glass itself, which is held in the guides. You need to unscrew the four bolts with a 10mm wrench. As a result, the glass will drop to the bottom. You should also remove the curtain that is attached to the bottom of the glass unit. The window regulator itself is secured with 4 nuts on the left and 4 on the right on the guides. The gear motor is also held in place by three nuts.

The block is dismantled through technological holes. This is a carriage and two guides. The gearbox control cable is passed through the latter. There are rings on the cable in two places, attached to the carriages.

The gearbox consists of two parts connected by studs. If the latter are unscrewed, the motor will fall apart into two parts. One contains a motor with a gear. The other part is a drum with special grooves.

After replacing the gearbox, you need to reassemble everything in the reverse order and you can enjoy the reanimated mechanism. The gear motor is inexpensive and replacing it is quite simple.

Before assembly, you must carefully inspect and lubricate the cable. If after this the driver's window lifter does not work on the Kalina car, then it is recommended to check the amplifier tube. In order for the glass to go down completely, the rubber bumpers are shortened.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=edJjxP16ERc

Removing the heater fan

We remove the heater fan if it fails. We remove the throttle assembly and move it to the side without disconnecting the hoses from it (see “Removing the throttle assembly”). We remove the wind window trims (see “Removing the wind window trims”). Remove the front panel upholstery (see “Removing the front panel upholstery”). Bend upward the end of the brake pedal bracket (see “Removing the micromotor-reducer of the heater damper”).

Unfasten or cut the clamp securing the fan motor wire block. Having released the latch...

...disconnect the wiring harness block from the electric motor block. Disconnect the wire block from the additional resistor (see “Removing the additional heater fan resistor”). Having unscrewed the self-tapping screw and nuts securing the heater, we move it forward so that the fan can be removed (see “Removing the heater”).

Disconnect the electric motor ventilation hose from the pipe.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws securing the fan. Using a screwdriver, pry off the fan flange...

...we remove the electric motor with the impeller from the heater housing. The fan flange is attached to the heater through rubber pads. To replace them, remove the plastic bushings and then remove the cushions from the holes in the fan flange. Install the heater fan in reverse order.

When installing the fan, we orient it so that the electric motor pipe is opposite the electric motor ventilation hose.

Replacing the Priora stove motor with PanSonyk air conditioning

This replacement method may not be correct, but it’s fast!

According to the repair manual, I had a very difficult job ahead of me.

with the removal of the vacuum and the halving of the entire stove together with the evaporator and subsequent

refilling with freon. In short, only with freon for 2 rubles is not enough work for 5-6 hours.

Naturally, my hand didn’t rise to shred and cut my car, but what can you do.

There is no way without this. Priora ept)) Thanks to AvtoVAZ for their foresight in the next repair. All that was necessary was to make the upper part of the heater in the area of the motor removable. But no, we are not looking for easy ways; the right way is to remove everything))

Therefore, I did it much simpler and first cut off the upper part of the heater motor casing with a hacksaw blade. So that nothing would interfere with its removal. Cut only as shown in my photo so as not to disturb the rigidity of the entire casing. And it is this half that I cut off that only plays the role of an anther.

READ What oil to fill in the Priora gearbox

But this turned out to be not enough... The motor rested against the place where the engine mount was mounted on the glass. This was done specifically so that no one could remove the motor in this way without completely disassembling the heater. But we move on))

In general, we cut the fan casing itself, but so that the 2 motor fasteners are outside the cut (this will not affect its rigidity). You can see in the photo where to cut.

Well, now that the engine is in front of us, we see its Chinese origin and the savory price for it. But in terms of mounting, it is completely identical to the 10 Mu and Kalinovsky. It only differs in the location of the breather, but this is not a hindrance for us.

We put the motor in place and check everything works. This means we can assemble it.

I then coated the incision sites with Poxypol and everything was fine. The integrity was not compromised and the appearance was not damaged at all; it is not visible there.

But it made it easier for me to disassemble and maintain this unit in the future.

Connecting power windows VAZ-2109

Owners of a VAZ 2109 car can replace power windows with electric windows. On 2109 cars, electric windows can be connected via standard wiring, which already has everything provided for connecting an ESP.

This circuit is used to connect ESP on more “rich” configurations of the nine and it is advisable to use it when connecting independently. Below are diagrams for connecting an ESP with fuse blocks of new and old models.

Wiring diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with an old-style mounting block (17.3722):

1 - Mounting block
2 - Ignition relay
3 — Ignition switch
4 — Right door electric window motor
5 — Left door electric window motor
6 - Right door power window switch
7 - Left door power window switch
K7 - Power window power relay
A - To terminal “30” of the generator
B - To the wiring harness block connected to the heater lever illumination display
B - to the heater lever illumination display
G - conventional numbering of plugs in the gear motor block

Parallel connection - diagram

Wires from the main button next to the driver's ESP motor go directly to pin 88 of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger's ESP motor. A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button, thereby eliminating unnecessary relay clicking when the main button on the passenger door is operating.

Self-repair of the Priora comfort unit, is this possible?

If you have never encountered soldering, diagnostics of printed circuit boards of varying complexity and configurations, or do not have the necessary diagnostic or soldering equipment, then it is better to address the repair question to qualified specialists. If you have the above skills and understand the causes of malfunctions, independent repairs are carried out quite often. This is due to the fact that various microcircuits or chips constantly fail. For example, having established that the reason for the turn signal failure is a failed control driver, it is always possible to purchase a new part and simply re-solder it to replace the faulty one.

Scheme for any number of buttons and doors

Here you can place any number of buttons in parallel and simultaneously press them in different directions - a short circuit is impossible from the circuit design. In a situation where we press the up button on the main button, and the down button on the backup button, it will simply stop, since both power lines will have the same potential. The advantage of the circuit is that the power switching is in one place, there are no losses in the harnesses and on the buttons, there is a minimum of “pulling” of wires - 2 in total per channel + ground.

Principle of operation

In the late 80s and early 90s, when most people were not so spoiled by the abundance of foreign cars, owning your own car with an automatic window opener was considered a luxury at that time. But, nevertheless, times have changed; now you will hardly be able to find a car that is equipped with a handle that you need to turn in order to inhale air. Electric power windows are now considered a standard feature of modern cars, just like mirrors and windshield wipers. Almost no one has seen this device, which is responsible for raising or lowering the windows.

The mechanism of this device is located between the base of the door and its casing, attached to the door thanks to screws and nuts.

The electric drive looks like in school physics lessons an electric motor for experiments, whose force influenced the gear-screw device. At its base lies an armature with a winding, in a cylinder-shaped housing, and a stator is located inside.

The rod located in the center is connected to a spiral, which resembles a meat grinder device. As soon as the rotor begins to rotate, the helical gear imparts force to the gear, which turns the handle. This process influences the lift mechanism, which raises and lowers the glass. However, it is worth saying that each car door has its own motor to lift the windows.

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This is what the window lift motor looks like

Applicability on cars

Brand	Automobile model	Body type	Number of doors	Years of manufacture
VAZ	2110 / LADA 110	sedan	4	1995 — 2014
VAZ	21108 / LADA Premier	sedan	4	1999 — 2007
VAZ	2111 / LADA 111	station wagon	5	1998 — 2014
VAZ	2112 / LADA 112	hatchback	5	1999 — 2009
VAZ	2170 / LADA Priora	sedan	4	2007 — 2015
VAZ	21708 / LADA Priora Premier	sedan	4	2007 — 2015
VAZ	2171 / LADA Priora	station wagon	5	2009 — 2015
VAZ	2172 / LADA Priora	hatchback	5	2008 — 2015

Electric windows "GRANAT" are an original Russian development that has no analogues. It is simple, reliable, tested over the years on various car models. Window lifters "GRANAT" are deservedly popular among Russian motorists. An excellent choice both for tuning and as a replacement for faulty original electric windows. A special feature of the GRANAT window lifters is: - the operating principle in which the motor reducer, together with the glass frame, moves along a fixed guide (rail) of the window lifter using a toothed shaft; — are installed in place of the guide of the original window lifter and are attached to the standard holes, while drilling additional holes and modifying the doors is not required. To attach the window regulators to the door and the carriage to the glass frame, fasteners from the replacement window regulators are used.

Main advantages: - reliable original design, - absence of glass distortions, - absence of bending elements guarantees long-term uninterrupted operation, - window lifter is equipped with an imported gear motor, - noise level 40 - 50 dB (no louder than a running car engine), - electric window lifter during the established operating life does not require special maintenance.

Results

The Lada Priora car is reliable and unpretentious. However, the power windows of this model often fail. Perhaps the matter lies in the imperfection of the mechanism, perhaps in the harsh operating conditions of the vehicle. These include low and high temperatures, high intensity of use, problems with CBKE.

If the window regulator breaks down, you need to immediately repair it. Repair work begins with diagnostics, which is carried out using a number of instruments. If diagnostics at home is not possible, then you should contact a car service.

A number of breakdowns can be repaired yourself. Such breakdowns include mechanical malfunctions of the window regulator, for example, a broken motor or a broken cable. Often, the glass lift is unstable due to poorly lubricated surfaces. If the window lifts operate separately, then most likely the problem lies in the electronics. If such problems arise, you should contact a specialist. Self-repair of car electronic systems is impossible.

Of course, electric window lifts are superior to mechanical ones, mainly due to practicality. However, electric lifts fail much more often. For their stable operation, it is necessary to follow the recommendations of the car manufacturer and regularly carry out technical inspections of the vehicle.

Modern window regulators are part of the car's electronics. Manual devices have long been a thing of the past; today, electric designs are used. Despite their convenience and practicality, they are considered less reliable than mechanical ones, which means they fail more often.

Any owner of a Lada Priora may sooner or later notice that the window regulator on his car does not work. Front and rear devices have approximately equal chances of failure. However, if your window regulator stops working, the problem must be corrected, because otherwise you will not be able to open or close the window. Some problems can be solved on your own, and in some cases you will have to contact a service center. Today we’ll talk about why the window regulator on the Lada Priora does not work and how to solve the problem.

Window lifter diagram for VAZ-2115, VAZ-2115

Power windows for front doors for VAZ-2115, VAZ-2114 cars (usually power windows are installed only on front doors).

1 – mounting block; 2 – power window switch for the right front door; 3 – gear motor for the electric window of the right front door; 4 – motor reducer for the electric window lifter of the left front door; 5 – power window switch for the left front door; 6 – ignition switch; K5 – relay for turning on electric windows; A - to power supplies; B - to the external lighting switch.