Checking and replacing door switches on Lada cars » lada.online - all the most interesting and useful about Lada cars

12-01-2017
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To increase safety (so that the driver does not start driving with the door open and for the alarm to work), cars are equipped with open door sensors (popularly “limit switches” or “limit switches”). Their malfunction causes the interior lighting to work incorrectly and prevents the car from being armed. Let's figure out how to check and, if necessary, replace door switches.

Limit switch function

The effect of this button is that when the doors are open, a special symbol lights up on the panel. If, when setting the alarm, the door is not closed or not completely closed, that is, the limit switch is open, then the “alarm” will definitely notify you about this.

In some car models, if the keys are in the ignition when the driver's door is open, it is impossible to lower the door locking pawl on it, and the automation will immediately raise all the locks. This will help avoid such a common situation as accidentally slamming the keys in the lock. Limit switches operate both for opening and closing.

If you turn off the limit switches, the open door indication will stop working. Then problems with the alarm may arise. In addition, there are situations when a light is needed in the trunk or interior.

Areas of application

Each type of limit switch is typically used in various fields of activity. By application they can be divided into:

Protective, which are installed to protect the mechanism or personnel from ill-considered actions. For example, a cage lowering people into a mine will not begin to move until all its doors are closed, thereby ensuring the safety of the miners.
Functional. They regularly turn lights or other electrical mechanisms on or off. The most obvious example of such a device, known to everyone, is the turning on of the light in the refrigerator when the door is opened.

In general, the use of limit switches depends on the possibility of the mechanism for its use and the imagination of the designer. People don’t even realize how often they have to deal with this electrical mechanism:

in everyday life and household appliances;
in the automobile and in the automotive industry;
in furniture products;
in production to solve a wide variety of problems.

Installing speakers in doors

Installing speakers in doors is a very easy process if you just need to replace old speakers with new ones. But if this is your first time installing front speakers, then the level of difficulty depends on the presence of wiring in the doors and the availability of space for the speakers. Fortunately, our cars are supplied from the factory with side podiums for speakers with pockets, so this is already minus one problem.

The correct installation of speakers in the front doors is that the speakers must be mounted strictly in their places and the polarities of both the wires and the speakers themselves must be correctly connected. When it comes to installing front speakers, everyone has their own approach: some simply attach new speakers, while others also add noise and vibration isolation for better sound quality.

We unscrew the 3 screws securing the podiums, unscrew the speaker mounts and remove the connectors.
We install new ones, tighten them tightly and install the podiums.

Limit switch device

The design of any such device consists of:

Cases. It can be made of dielectric or conductive material, depending on the design. The moving part with the help of an impact on which the contact group is pressed. There is no moving mechanism in reed switches and non-contact limit devices. Contact part. Can contain both NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) contacts

When choosing a limit switch, you should pay attention to the voltage and current that will flow through the contacts. Since the duration of proper operation of the switch directly depends on this. It depends on what mechanisms it is intended to control.

It depends on what mechanisms it is intended to control.

Mechanical

Mechanical limit switches come in different designs, which determine their scope of application.

Their main types:

Most often they are used, of course, for production purposes, metallurgy, mechanical engineering, and construction. They are often equipped with a rubber seal and contain a group of contacts that include both make and break contacts.

One of the varieties of this kind of limit switches is called microswitches and their operating principle is similar to conventional ones. But the sizes and currents are much smaller. The working stroke of such elements is measured in millimeters, and therefore they are used using an additional lever, which can be equipped with a small roller. Therefore, installing it will require careful adjustment of the trigger.

Contactless

All these contactless switching devices are divided into:

Capacitive - based on interaction with the human body. The fact is that when a person approaches it, an electric capacitance arises as a result of which the multivibrator circuit installed inside the limit switch is activated. The closer the human body approaches, the greater the capacitance and the lower the pulse frequency. This element is highly sensitive. The main function is performed by a plate tightly connected to the capacitor.
Inductive - this is an electronic proximity switch that responds to the movement of magnetic material. Depending on this, such a sensor is equipped with a metal or non-magnetic core. When an object that is set to trigger approaches or moves away, it generates electrical impulses that are processed by a threshold element, and a signal is given to close or open the key.
Optical is a special type of limit switches, which is equipped with an infrared LED and a special transistor that captures this signal (phototransistor). The optical element works regardless of natural light. When the LED beam is interrupted, the photocell will close, thereby turning off the actuator in whose circuit it is connected.
Ultrasonic. Here quartz sound emitting elements are already used. They can also be used as motion or volume sensors. When it appears within its range of action, the amplitude of a sound signal of a certain frequency, often inaudible to the human ear, changes.

On the basis of these switches, all kinds of sensors for monitoring bulk and liquid materials, dispensers, etc. are manufactured.

Magnetic

An electromagnetic limit switch (reed switch) responds to a constant magnetic field. Often contains one

Automotive

Such devices used in cars are often used for lighting and alarm circuits. By and large, this is a mechanical limit switch. Structurally, it is made with one terminal to which a positive potential is connected. The negative terminal is considered to be the housing that is clamped to the metal element of the car body.

In this case, you need to ensure that the part of the body where the limit switch is installed is cleaned of paint.

Often equipped with several groups of normally open and closed contacts.

Pneumatic

A pneumatic limit switch is a device that can stop the flow of compressed air or other gas by pressing a control button or lever. At the same time, there is another type of these switches, which operates when a certain pressure in the system is reached.

I would like to remind you that you should connect or disconnect limit switches to the electrical circuit when the voltage is completely removed. After that, the voltage indicator will make sure that there is no voltage, and metal cases must be grounded.

Installation of alarms on VAZ-2114

Next we will look at how to correctly connect the signaling system on cars of the VAZ 2114 family. The following will be implemented: connection to the central locking, auto start, reading the status of door limit switches. To control the central locking, the VAZ plant produced BUBD modules. If such a module is missing, the task will be simplified - you will not connect the central locking system. The same applies to the case when the driver's door only has a switch, but not an actuator. All tables given here are suitable for the Starline A91 Dialog alarm system, and to set up another system, use the instructions for it.

Correct exit procedure, example

The door switch on the front left door does not work

The starter does not work on a VAZ 2115 - 6 answers
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At a minimum, it must be removed and cleaned of dirt and rust, then check the wire for integrity. To check, connect the wire itself without the limit switch button to ground, and you will find out the problem is in the limit switch or wiring.

How to find door switches?

If you don’t know where the door switch is located, then you should start searching for them with a manufactured control or “tseshka”. Signals are removed from the door limit switches - the button principle. This is done in order to protect the car alarm system around the perimeter of the car. When the door is open, the limit switch is not clamped, it is free, and a plus or minus hangs on its wire. But this happens extremely rarely.

Most modern cars have a corresponding lamp on

which lights up when the door opens. You need to hook the control crocodiles onto the car body, and use a sting to pierce the wires and observe what the control lamp shows. The key here is to leave only one door open.

As soon as the control lamp lights up green, you need to press the limit switch of the unlocked door or close it completely. If the lamp goes out or lights up red, then we have found the right wire.

What are limit switches

A limit switch (limit switch) is a device that issues a command or independently opens/closes the electrical power circuit of the actuator. The signal for issuing a command is the external influence of a moving part on the sensitive element of the switch. The main task performed by the limit switch is the automation of control of individual technological or independent elements, designed to free people from performing similar and primitive actions.

An example illustrating the operation of such a switch is usually the operation of sliding doors. The command to open/close the sash is given by a person, and the stop occurs automatically when the moving part acts on the limit switches at the starting or ending point.

Externally, the limit switch is an independent compact device that is installed at a certain point of the controlled mechanism. This is not necessarily the starting or ending point of the path of the moving element, since parts located in any convenient location can be used to influence the HF. Often, both the beginning and the end of the movement are provided by the same switch, which is in contact with different elements of the moving unit.

There are contact and non-contact HF models that operate on different principles. At the same time, the difference in design does not change the functionality of the element - in fact, any type of limit switch is a regular switch.

Wiring check

Instructions for cars of the B0 assembly line (XRAY, Largus, Nissan Almera, Renault Duster, Sandero). Remove the limit switch and set the multimeter to voltmeter mode. We measure the voltage at the contacts of the block with the wires:

If there is no voltage, the circuit of the interior lamp lamp or the lamp itself is faulty.
if the voltage is significantly less than 12 V, the wire connecting the sensor to ground is probably damaged.

We set the multimeter to ohmmeter mode, connect one probe to ground (body), and the other to the terminal of the block with the black wire. The resistance should be close to zero. If the resistance is high and tends to infinity, the connection between the wire and the body is probably damaged by corrosion or the wire is damaged (treat the connection with a product to protect electrical contacts). If the fault cannot be resolved in this way, it is necessary to remove the interior trim from the pillar, find and fix the fault.

What standard trip computers exist?

Option 2. Installed instead of a small plug next to the ACS unit

These were installed on “luxury” dozens. There are models AMK 211000 without diagnostics, and AMK 211001, AMK 211002 with diagnostics. You can find out which one you have by looking at the numbers on the back cover. To do this, naturally, the MK must be removed. If on the back there are the inscriptions AMK-211001 or AMK 211002, and in clock mode, when you press the “clock” button, the inscriptions Err appear and then two more - great. You have a full-fledged bookmaker. If these are the inscriptions:

Unfortunately, this is a BC that either lacks diagnostic capabilities or has “cut-off” firmware.” Craftsmen resolder and reflash such models, but in my opinion they are not worth it.

It is very easy to remove such a MK. We disconnect the terminal of the “negative” wire from the battery terminal. We pry it off with a screwdriver...

remove the MK from its seat....

....disconnect the wire block from it.

General scheme

— rear window heating switch;
— rear fog lamp switch;
— switch for headlights and direction indicators;
— mounting block;
— windshield wiper switch;
— fog light switch;
— display unit of the on-board control system;
— block of the instrument panel harness to the additional harness;
— instrument cluster;
— instrument panel harness connector to the on-board computer harness;
— block of the instrument panel harness to the ignition system harness;
— block of the instrument panel harness to the side door harness;
— fuse 16 A;
— fuse 16 A;
— ignition switch;
— lighting switch;
— heater electric motor;
— additional resistance of the heater electric motor;
— ignition switch unloading relay;
— Rear fog lights relay;
- starter relay;
— socket for connecting a portable lamp;
- cigarette lighter;
— block of the instrument panel harness to the wiring harness of the glove box lighting lamp;
— illuminator;
— illuminator;
— illuminator;
— heater switch;
— instrument lighting regulator with rheostat;
— brake signal switch;
- horn switch;
- hazard warning switch;
— backlight lamp for the heater control panel;
— fuse 16 A;
— seat heating relay;

Ш1-Ш4 — mounting block connectors. X1, X2 - instrument panel harness connectors to the instrument cluster. A - grounding point of the instrument panel harness.

Installation

The process of installing a subwoofer in the fourteenth VAZ model begins not with anything, but with the ShVI (unless, of course, sound insulation has already been carried out (see Soundproofing a VAZ 2114 with your own hands according to the instructions)).

Subwoofer in the trunk of a VAZ 2114

Unfortunately, the level of shvi of domestic cars, even new ones, is not of sufficient quality. And without the appropriate preparation, installing a speaker is tantamount to throwing money down the drain.

Vibroplast or other modern materials will be an ideal option for this operation. If you read the corresponding step-by-step instructions for conducting a ShVI, you will be able to conduct the event on your own.

Next you need to do the following:

Lay the speaker wires specifically under the subwoofer. You need to know that the RCA runs on the left of the car interior, and the power cables run on the right.

Subwoofer in the trunk of a VAZ 2114

The following scenario for installing a subwoofer in the fourteenth VAZ model is suitable if the trunk of the car will be used for standard purposes for transporting goods. Thus, there will be no more space left for mounting a subwoofer and an amplifier.

Here's what we recommend:

Buy an active subwoofer Mystery or some other one with a flat shape. A super-compact underseat speaker is also suitable for these purposes;
Prepare a set of necessary wiring, including power and audio cables;
The wire responsible for power supply is connected to the battery (a fuse must be used);
The cable is brought into the cabin through a prepared hole made for the rear window washer hose. Further, already in the cabin, you will need to remove the plastic thresholds in order to “follow the tracks” of the hose;
The same should be done with audio wires;
The button responsible for adjusting the bass can be placed under the dashboard.

Why do you need an on-board computer?

In previous articles we have already talked about what an on-board computer is, what it is needed for and what types they come in. But let me repeat myself so that you clearly understand all the advantages of having an on-board computer, and there are probably no disadvantages, except perhaps spending money on the purchase and that’s all.

Let's take, for example, the on-board computer STATE 115×24. With this model in your possession, you can:

set the radiator fan start temperature; this function is very useful, for example, in winter, when you can control the temperature of the coolant, thereby monitoring the temperature of the heater radiator.
The function of drying and warming up the spark plugs before starting the engine is very useful.
The function of resetting settings and ECU adjustments is needed to switch to gasoline with a higher or lower octane number (from 92 to 95 and vice versa), and this function is also needed to reset settings after a long trip with increased load on the engine.
The ability to read errors allows you to monitor the condition of the car and change non-working sensors and elements in a timely manner.

Alarm connection

To install this device, the driver will have to become familiar with the concept of inserting wires.

Connecting an alarm system to limit switches

In order to carry out this simple operation, you do not have to disassemble the entire machine:

Remove the sill trims and the side panel on the driver's door.
We find there a wiring harness going to the dashboard (this is what is needed so as not to connect the alarm to each door in parallel).
Having selected the white cable we need, we insert 1N5401 into it so that the direction of the current on the diode is directed towards the limit switches.
We connect the 1N4001 paired with it according to the diagram shown in the picture.

We find the handbrake wire; we need to embed 1N4001 into it so that the cathode is closer to the switch.
We find a blue cable and solder a branch into it to the alarm unit.
We turn on the alarm and test, and if something doesn’t work, first of all we “ring” all the solders, perhaps you soldered one of the diodes in the opposite direction.

Installation of front speakers VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 2113, Lada Samara 2

We show the installation of speakers on a VAZ-2115 car, since in cars of the Samara family the speakers are installed under the instrument panel trims, and such work is simple. In Samara-2 cars, the front speakers are installed in the windows of the interior panels of the front doors. The diameter of the windows is 130 mm. Four holes are provided for attaching the speaker with self-tapping screws to the inner door panel.

When installing, an important point is the method of routing the wires from the head unit to the speakers. As doors open and close, the sections of wires between the door and the pillar will be constantly bent. Therefore, the wires in these places should be reliably protected.

The wire can be routed differently - take it out from under the instrument panel and pass it under the door trim. In this case, the wire in the cabin will be constantly visible, which is not very aesthetically pleasing. In addition, such a wire can easily be damaged, and in the place where it goes under the upholstery, the upholstery will not adhere to the door. This, in turn, will lead to loosening of the upholstery and, accordingly, rattling and squeaking when moving, which will certainly appear after a short time. In addition, the upholstery, constantly acting on the wire, will grind it. Thus, this method of laying wires can only be considered temporary.

In order to install the wires more thoroughly, special holes are provided in the A-pillars and the front side ends of the doors. However, simply passing the wires through the holes is only half the battle, since vibration will quickly rub the insulation of the wires against the edges of the holes. Therefore, to protect the wires, it is necessary to install a corrugated casing between the door and the stand. Such casings are commercially available and inexpensive.

If the wires do not have lugs to connect to the speaker terminals, you will need to install them yourself.

Remove the insulation from the end of the wire.

We insert the bare part of the wire into the tip to a sufficient depth.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no insulated part of the wire gets into the crimping area.

Since the installed tip is not insulated, we insulate it with a cambric.

This is what a corrugated casing for laying wires looks like

Please note: the ends of the casing are made in such a way that they can be securely fixed in the holes of the rack and the end of the door

The diameter of the casing also makes it possible to lay in it the wires of other electrical consumers that can be installed in the door (electric door lock, electric window and mirror drives).

We bring the wiring harnesses of the speaker, electric lock and electric window into the hole at the end of the door and fasten their ends with insulating tape,...

...which makes it easier to thread a single bundle of wires through the corrugated casing.

We bring the wiring harness into the passenger compartment through the hole in the front door pillar and secure the ends of the corrugated casing in the holes in the pillar and door.

The wiring harness is now securely protected.

Place for installing the speaker on the inside panel of the front door with holes for mounting.

If the suspension of the magnetic speaker system (speaker with a nominal diameter of 130 mm) does not fit in the hole,...

...the edges of the hole must be bent.

The leading edge of the hole, unlike the other three, is welded from two sheets of metal and has a fairly high rigidity.

To make bending easier, we make several cuts in it.

...or a cutting machine (grinder).

We bend the “petals” of the leading edge with a hammer,...

...and the top, back and bottom edges are used with sliding pliers.

The speaker is now placed in the hole.

We install brackets for fastening the speaker with self-tapping screws, and the holes in the brackets must coincide with the holes in the door panel. There are four such brackets - according to the number of mounting holes.

We reinstall the door trim and lead the wires through the hole in the trim intended for installing the speaker.

The length of the wires should be chosen with a margin for the convenience of connecting their tips to the speaker terminals.

If a power window is installed, place the switch block into the hole in the door trim.

Having connected the wires to the speaker, we install it in the hole in the door trim.

We screw in three self-tapping screws that secure the speaker, as shown in the photo.

The lower front screw secures the door trim pocket, so we screw it in when installing the pocket.

We install the speaker in the left door in the same way.

Detailed description of the device

The load switch is a progressive switching device equipped with an arc chute and a drive for automatic or non-automatic control.

The disconnecting devices have an extended handle. The operating temperature range ranges from –40 – +50 °C. Notches on the contact clamps reduce heat loss and increase the mechanical stability of the connection

Designed for mechanical opening/closing of a group of contacts in a section of an AC electrical circuit under load. Suitable for switching low and high voltage circuits with workloads.

It is not used during a short circuit, as it is designed to extinguish a low-power arc and remove the rated load.

Autogas load switches are usually installed in production workshops and enterprises that occupy a large area. These elements are easy to operate and can be easily repaired by personnel even with low qualifications

It belongs to the class of high-voltage devices and, as a rule, is located in electrical installations operating under a voltage of 6-10 kilovolts, not equipped with an automatic system that protects the network from short circuits.

Some advanced load switch modules are equipped with special viewing windows. Through it you can clearly see in what state - closed or open - the switch contacts are at a particular moment

The device is equipped with reinforced contacts that have a prolonged service life, significantly exceeding the service life of contact connections in simple automatic machines. This makes it possible to absolutely safely de-energize a line under load and carry out all the necessary measures.

Design and principle of operation of the unit

The load shedding device consists of a durable welded frame equipped with a special shaft. There are 6 support insulators on it. The contact knives are hingedly attached to the three located at the bottom, and the main and arc-extinguishing contacts are held on the remaining elements located at the top. Insulating rods correctly transfer motion from the shaft lever elements directly to the contact knives.

The unit is equipped with tripping springs welded to the ends of the shaft. They allow the switch to be deactivated at a certain speed after the free wire release mechanism is released

The contacts responsible for arc extinguishing open in special arc extinguishing chambers made of phenolic plastic. This material has high mechanical and corrosion resistance, demonstrates extreme strength and has unprecedented high electrical insulating characteristics.

The internal liners located in the chambers are made of glass-filled polyamite, characterized by a dense structure and impact resistance. The arcuate shape of the chambers and liners allows the movable arcing contacts to enter inside easily and without tension.

Devices for switching off the load in electrical networks are used to interrupt/resume the voltage supply at substations responsible for the distribution of electricity in urban and rural areas

When the device is activated, the arc extinguishing contacts close first, and then the knives close the main contacts. At the moment of shutdown, everything happens the other way around: first the main contacts open and only after them the arc-extinguishing contacts.

Installing a portable grounding device on a voltage disconnect device will ensure the safety of the network and allow you to carry out any planned or repair work on the electrical system and equipment without risk

In inactive mode, the movable arcing contact creates a clearly visible air gap with the arcing chamber, exactly the same as in a traditional disconnector. Immediately at the moment of shutdown, an arc forms between the arcing contacts.

When exposed to high arc temperatures, the glass-filled polyamide liner releases specific gases. This flow that appears in the chamber extinguishes the arc, providing further safety for working with the current circuit and electrical equipment.

Car electrical wiring design

The general wiring diagram of the VAZ-2114 can be divided into several components:

External lighting system.
Ignition system.
Fuel supply.
Engine control (sensors, actuators and ECU).
Starting the engine (starter).
Power (battery and generator).
Additional equipment systems - wipers, washer, heater, heated mirrors, seats and windows, cigarette lighter, etc.

Absolutely all circuits that are connected to the battery are protected by fuse links. They are installed in the mounting block under the hood (as on its predecessor, the VAZ-2109).

Switching occurs using electromagnetic relays. They allow you to get rid of the flow of large current through the buttons when turning on powerful consumers. The reason is that when direct switching of high currents occurs, the buttons are destroyed and the contacts burn. In this regard, electromagnetic relays are much more reliable.

Limit switch with roller: principle of operation, buying tips, installation instructions

Limit switches are simple devices that perform important tasks and ensure the safety of people and the normal flow of technological processes.

The operation of automatic moving mechanisms requires timely shutdown or startup without human intervention. These are sliding gates, shutters, and other structures that require timely shutdown when the controlled part reaches a certain position. To implement this function, specialized devices are used that have many design options and operating principles.

The effective and most common type of such devices is a limit switch with a roller. It is reliable, resistant to external loads, and durable. Existing types of such devices have some differences in design and functionality, so we should consider them in more detail.

Correct modernization of VAZ 2114 limit switches

The most common problem in cars of this series is that the driver's door switch of the VAZ 2114 wears out and then does not work, so there is no need to talk about the normal operation of sensors, alarms and even lights in the cabin.

The second most unpleasant problem that VAZ 2114 car owners may encounter is that the standard limit switches do not report that the door is not closed when it is slightly open by one click of the limit switch. Such a design flaw not only does not allow the car owner to be confident that all doors are closed, but also leaves a significant loophole for intruders.

Therefore, if you want the signal to be triggered even when the door is slightly open, you will have to slightly change its design with your own hands.

IMPORTANT! The design of the rear door limit switches on the VAZ 2114 differs from the design of the front doors; this should be taken into account when selecting materials and methods for solving the problem. The essence of the problem is to reduce the stroke length of the limit switch to obtain the required response of the entire electrical network

The essence of the problem is to reduce the stroke length of the limit switch to obtain the required response of the entire electrical network.

The simplest solution from available materials is the following modernization:

We take the upholstery piston of your own car.
We replace the standard “washer” with this piston.
Using available means, measure the distance between the edge of the cap with the base; it should be 1 mm.
We fix the design and check it; the light bulb in the cabin will act as a kind of quality control; it should light up after one click.

Although this method is not applicable for the rear door due to differences in design, it will help solve the problem of the front doors. Also, do not forget about fixing the piston; the ideal option would be a regular plumbing gasket of the appropriate size. On the back door, the limit switches will just have to be carefully ground off.

Advantages and disadvantages of various blockers

Mechanical hood switch, advantages:

Simple design is the key to reliability.
Volatility independence, that is, the performance of your battery and the condition of the car’s wiring will not in any way affect the protective capabilities of the hood locking system.
The hybrid system, assembled on the basis of a mechanical hood lock together with an engine start blocking system, is considered one of the most reliable protection against theft.

Mechanical hood switch, disadvantages:

Low practicality, or simply put, the mechanical system is inconvenient to use. The driver must remove the hood lock every time at the start of a trip. This is explained by safety rules, since in the event of a fire or other emergency situations, the engine compartment should not be blocked.
The need to attach the lock cylinder of a mechanical lock. On the one hand, the lock must be securely hidden, but, on the other hand, every driver wants to have convenient access to it. In addition, upon seeing the lock, the attacker will immediately understand which hood lock is installed on the car. In this case, if you have special tools, removing the blockage will not be difficult.
Complicated installation. Correctly and safely installing a hood lock is quite a troublesome task, since one must take into account the factor of moving objects, which, if jammed, can create an emergency situation. You should also take into account the strong heating of some elements of the car, and the fact that within a year after installation the cable will be subject to deformation and may lengthen by a couple of millimeters. Given these factors, the installation of a mechanical locking system should only be trusted to professionals, and the cost of the work may exceed the cost of the system itself.

Electromechanical hood lock, advantages:

Ease of use. To turn the lock on or off, you just need to press a button.
Maintaining secrecy. The control button may even be in the driver’s pocket, but even if it is installed inside the car, it is much easier to hide the button. Thus, it is quite difficult to understand which locking system is installed.
Easy installation. Installing electric drives is not difficult, and connecting power wires and, if necessary, a button activation contact to them is much easier than installing a metal hose for the control cable.

The electromechanical hood lock has only one, but very significant, drawback - its volatility. That is, if the battery is discharged or the car's electrical wiring fails, the hood switch loses its functionality.

There are ways to solve this problem, for example, an additional safety rope stretched into the cabin, or the installation of an additional independent power source. However, this significantly complicates the design features of the device.

If you want to reliably protect your vehicle, be sure to install a hood locking device. But to do this, you should carefully study the operating principles of all devices, their advantages, and only then make a choice.

Limit switches - also known as limit switches - are electromechanical devices whose task is to open/close an electrical circuit. Although the device was originally developed for use in engineering structures, but with the increase in the number of electronics in vehicles, they began to be widely used in their control system.

So, since the 50s of the last century, almost all cars were equipped with an automatic system for turning on the light in the cabin when the front door was opened, but with the progress of progress, an increasing number of tasks began to be assigned to the limit switches used in the car, for example, the limit switches of the VAZ 2114 are located on the entrance doors and trunk.

WEIGHT VAZ 2114

Unreliable weight on the VAZ 2114 or its absence leads to various unpleasant surprises. For example, instead of a turn signal in the rear light, the lights suddenly start blinking (the so-called Christmas tree), or the starter barely turns. If you know where the masses of the VAZ 2114 are located, you can cope with many troubles in the electrical part of the car.

Location of common (mass) wires

The main ground wire is short and thick - it comes from the battery and is attached to a stud with a nut in the area of the front left side member. Its thickness is about 14-16 mm. Also from the negative terminal of the battery there is a thin wire that serves as a power supply to various energy consumers. Weak contact at the terminal leads to rapid discharge of the battery.

The electronic engine control system also requires a common wire. The mass of the ECU on the VAZ 2114 can be mounted in two different places depending on the modification of the car:

On versions 2115 with a 1.5 liter engine, it is taken from the engine (two M6 bolts on the rear camshaft plug).
On 1.6 liter internal combustion engines, as well as 1.5 liter engines with a Bosch or “January” version 7.2 ECU, it is fixed with a bolt screwed to the metal frame of the center console under the dashboard.

If the common wire of the electronics does not make good contact with the car body, then the ECM on the VAZ 2114 may cause various malfunctions.

Article on the topic: Independent replacement of generator brushes on a VAZ 2114

Please note that the wire must be well secured

Where is the mass of the VAZ 2114 instrument panel located? There is only one common mass point in the cabin for the instrument panel wiring, luggage compartment wiring harness and fuse box circuit (models 2108-09 and 2113-2114-2115), it is located under the instrument cluster near the steering column.

The heater motor also requires a minus. It is attached to the heater body on the driver's side of the cabin.

The question remains - where is the mass of the VAZ 2114 engine. The mass is precisely the place where the main negative terminal of the battery is attached to the body.

Do-it-yourself engine start | Motorist's benefit

Probably, many have already heard about remote starting of a car engine; recently we have already published information about how autostart works and how it works. Those who are interested can read this article in more detail. Today we will talk about how to independently make a remote car engine start at home.

Adding the engine auto-start function to a regular alarm system

In this example, we will connect the autostart function to the StarLine A6 car security system. The image shows a schematic diagram of connecting all elements including the remote start module.

The image shows a schematic diagram of connecting all elements including the remote start module.

To connect you will need:

Universal 4-pin relays – 2 pcs.
Universal 6-pin relays (22.3777) – 1 pc.
Schottky diodes SR360 (60A), analogue of diode 1N5822 60A – 3 pcs.

You shouldn’t have any problems assembling the circuit; the only nuance in this story is the low pulse duration of the additional channel on the StarLine A6 alarm (0.6 sec.) or long (10 sec. and 30 sec.), which in one case is not enough to turn on the starter , and in the other there is a lot of this. To solve the problem, it is necessary to reprogram the additional channel for 0.8 seconds, this is enough to start the starter. In the following photos you can see how the assembly and connection were carried out.

The photo shows the connection of diodes to output 85 of the starter relay

We hide the assembled circuit in the torpedo niche

The standard alarm program on channel 3 gives a pulse mode of 0.8 seconds. The first press of the button turns on the ignition, the second turns on the starter, only after 1.5 seconds the engine stalls and the ignition turns off. If the second time you press and hold the button, the engine runs until you release the button, this problem can be solved by reprogramming the alarm to supply a negative contact to certain relay contacts.

Before reprogramming, we have Relay 22.3777 supplies +12 current to the 4th contact when a minus appears and disappears on the 5th contact, and relay 21.3777 supplies a plus to the 4th leg as soon as a minus appears on the 5th.

After programming, relay 22.3777 supplies minus 12 volts to the 4th contact when a minus appears and disappears on the 5th contact, and relay 21.3777 supplies a minus to the 4th leg as soon as a minus appears on the 5th. As a result, we have a remote start with three clicks , and on the fourth, we turn off the engine. The positive aspect of this circuit is the presence of relay 22.3777, which makes a pause for the fuel pump (pause between the 2nd and 3rd press).

Basic information about the car

When starting to install the alarm, you need to understand exactly where and what is located in the car, and what you will connect. Let's look at the connection diagram for the VAZ central locking system:

The control module is located under the dashboard on the left, and its connector attached to the body contains six wires:

When installing an alarm, the “blue” and “brown” cords are broken to obtain the following diagram:

The wiring of the 6-pin connector mounted on the main Starline A91 module is given below. Carefully study the principle of operation of the circuit: the limit switch here is in the “closed” position.

Before connecting the alarm to the ACU, make sure that a standard 5-wire actuator is installed in the driver's door, and not a toggle switch. It’s unlikely that anyone will be able to install the actuator with their own hands by running two cords to the engine in 5 minutes. In general, it is sometimes better to refuse to connect the signaling system to the central locking system.

Let us take the liberty of revealing VAZ’s proprietary secret:

If you see a "white" control wire connected to terminal "7", it is responsible for unlocking (as opposed to the "brown" one);
If terminals “5” and “7” are not used, a “brown” cord will be connected to terminal “8”, and it is then responsible for unlocking.

The locking contacts are terminals 5-6. The two outer terminals are responsible for unlocking. This is true not only for model 2114, but also for BUBD units of the “ninth” family in general.

The instructions for the alarms usually do not say that you will need to buy additional parts before installation. These include:

Diodes 1N4001 (2-3 pcs.) – designed for current up to one Ampere;
1N5401 (1 pc.) – three-amp diode;
To install any car alarm that does not have separate outputs for turn signals, you need to purchase two power diodes (4-5 Amperes).

The latter, as you might guess, does not apply to the Starline A91 system. And this is great luck.

When installing any Starline system, you usually spend less than 100 rubles on parts.

Inductive type switches

Inductive type devices (IP) constitute a special group and do not belong to any of the classes already discussed. The operating principle of these devices is to trigger when fairly massive metal objects approach them.

Such products respond to external interference that affects the inductance value of the built-in sensitive element (the principle of their operation is shown in the figure below).

Operating principle of IP

This type of switching devices is used in lifts, freight and passenger elevators, as well as for controlling the operation of sliding metal gates. They can have a wide variety of designs: from massive products fixed with bolts to miniature sensors glued at the installation site.

These devices function as follows:

When a metal object approaches the inductive IP sensor, the resistance of its choke coil increases, which causes a decrease in the current through it and the winding of relay K1;
This leads to the relay being turned off and its contacts K1.1, connected to the power circuit of the door drive, opening;
After removing the voltage from the supply line, the door movement stops.

Note! To power the inductive coil of the IP and the relay winding, an additional source Up is required. Switches of this class are produced under the designation VBI-M12 and are used in conjunction with standard electrical relays of type RP-21 or MRP-1. Switches of this class are produced under the designation VBI-M12 and are used in conjunction with standard electrical relays of type RP-21 or MRP-1

Switches of this class are produced under the designation VBI-M12 and are used in conjunction with standard electrical relays of type RP-21 or MRP-1.

In the final part of the review, we note that the use of limit switches to control doors significantly increases the comfort of living in modern countryside farms. With some experience and the necessary components, anyone can partially automate the process of controlling garage or entrance gates at their dacha.

How to install wires in the door of a VAZ 2114

Hello everyone, friends! Today I decided to compile a small guide on how you can lay an acoustic cable in the doors of our Samara cars in the simplest possible way, without disassembling the panel, and without much extra effort. In this way, you can lay a cable of any cross-section, except for thick cables Most likely, you will have to drill a hole in the door itself for the second corrugation. There is a lot of text on the Internet, but I couldn’t find everything in general terms and detailed instructions with photos. Therefore, I will make my own “guide”, which I hope will be useful to someone. So, let’s get started.

Step one. Unscrew the bolt of the plastic door sill and remove the plastic joint on the rack that goes to the dashboard (I explained it clumsily, you’ll understand in the photo). We move the insulating materials aside, and right under the plastic cover we see an excellent hole. On some models it may be sealed with electrical tape, but this is not certain. We remove the corrugation from its standard place, on the side that goes to the body. When removing the corrugation, you can help yourself carefully with pliers if it gets stiff.

Step two. We will need thin but dense wire; corrugated wire worked well for me for laying wires. We pass the wire through the top hole and catch it in the bottom. You can use tweezers or calmly stick your fingers through and catch the wire. Pull it out from below.

Step three. We tie an acoustic cable to the BOTTOM end of the wire; it is better if you tie the wire around the cable and press it with pliers, because massive knots on top will not fit. After making sure that everything is securely fastened, pull the wire from above. With effort, but not foolishly, slowly. If it doesn't work, then do it again. You need to aim when pulling it a little to the left (for the driver's door) and to the right (for the passenger door). Soon everything will work out and you will pull out the cable. Hurray, half the way has been completed.

Step four. We remove the door trim, then remove the lower end of the corrugation from the door. Threading the cable into the corrugation will not be easy, but it can be done. To do this, we also pull the wire through the corrugation (which is another pleasure), advice, try to straighten it as much as possible, then it will slip through. (This is a relatively long task, although I did the driver’s side in just a couple of minutes.)

Next, in the same way, we tighten the acoustic cable, as if from top to bottom. And boom, you're done!

All that remains is to insert the cable into the door itself, put the corrugations in place and connect everything.

Good day.

The post will be short and to the point, because for some reason there is no clear guide on the Internet on how to lay these wires. I hope this will make life easier for someone (I threw wires in the evenings for 3 days!)

The car came from the same family and did not have any acoustic preparation and no one climbed into the car. Therefore, difficulties arose in tearing off the sound insulation. I will describe how I laid the wires in the passenger door, because this was the most difficult thing, as it turned out. There are already a lot of wires in the driver's room and it will be a little easier.

Necessarily

! take a wire stiff enough to pull the speaker cable through the rubber corrugation from the door to the counter and up the counter into the interior.

First, we throw the wires from the door through the rubber corrugation into the rack. The wire will resist, but it can be done. You can stretch the corrugation a little in the place where the wire goes and thereby help it. Then we tie the wire to the wire and drag it up (there is no way to throw it down). I noted the approximate location of the hole in the rack in the photo (in the area of the door hinge).

We remove all the trim on the bottom of the door, the factory Shumka at the pillar. It is worth tearing off from the bottom up the rack. It will be difficult if the tuning leg has not yet entered there) It is not necessary to remove the glove compartment, but I did and was able to see the exiting wire through a small hole

I tore everything off with my left hand, crawling under the panel while sitting on the threshold) Important! The hole in the rack will be sealed with Shumka, almost tightly. We need to tear off the Shumka

Hello everyone, car 2114, there is no wiring for the speakers in the doors, I wanted to install it) can you tell me how to install the wires in the front doors so that they are like the factory ones?

4 comments on “Hello everyone, car 2114 there is no wiring for speakers in the doors I wanted”

where the main wires in the door go in a rubber casing there and conduct

The main thing is to insert it into the block and it will be like factory

Unscrew the plastic that secures the cover, move the cover to the side under the ponels and Shumka there is a through hole in the very frame of the body. It’s more convenient to insert with a wire; you insert the wire and tie the wires to the other end. To the radio from the door, throw the wires along the floor under the noise, and at the same time throw the leads to the signaling system, so that you don’t have to take everything apart again later