Weld the rear beam of the VAZ 2109

#1 Dimaspb

New
1 messages
Car make: VAZ 21099
From: St. Petersburg

The rear beam fastening on the left is torn off.
For good measure, you need to digest the entire bottom, sills , tell me how much and what amount to expect - labor + material. if the entire bottom is digested + sills + side members and if the main problem is eliminated for now: the rear left spar

auto vaz 21099, 99g

Are there any welders from St. Petersburg, Ladoga?

#2 Alexey Frolov

New

1 messages

Car make: VAZ 21093 Vanilla
From: Lipetsk

The rear beam fastening on the left is torn off. For good measure, you need to digest the entire bottom, sills

Tell me what time and what amount to expect - work + material. if the entire bottom is digested + sills + side members and if the main problem is eliminated for now: the rear left spar

auto vaz 21099, 99g

Are there any welders from St. Petersburg, Ladoga?

#3 Martian

VIP Member

4,530 messages

Car brand: good car - I'm happy
From: Perm city

The rear beam of the VAZ 2109 is an unreliable thing, and the owners of this car may have a large number of reasons to remove it. For example, the owner of a vehicle may hear unusual noises: grinding metal, quiet impacts, etc. These “special effects” will be heard in the rear of the VAZ 2109. The sound can be either constant or occur occasionally, for example, when there are bumps on the road.

1 — rubber-metal hinge; 2 — rear suspension arm mounting bracket; 3 — shock absorber casing; 4 — compression stroke buffer; 5 — casing cover; 6 — support washer; 7 — shock absorber cushions; 8 — spacer sleeve; 9 — shock absorber; 10 - insulating gasket; 11 — rear suspension spring; 12 — lever connector; 13 — rear suspension beam arm; 14 — shock absorber mounting bracket; 15 - flange; 16 — lever bushing

The beam fastening was torn out along the road [VARIM]

The other day the car started to quit when accelerating, I had to park it near the house for a week, I didn’t have time to figure it out.
The day I went to the garage to see from the pit what the problem was, everyone looked at me in surprise: I was driving, but they were following me with their eyes. Hmm... Strange. Entrance to garages, country road. There were 300-400 meters left to my garage, and... I hear a wild grinding sound from behind. I stopped to inspect the car, and there:

On a hummock, the beam fastening was torn out of the spar. I drove to the garage with God's help. The beam was dangling and the car was being tossed. I had to apply more gas to move the car. Guys, this is an example of what you should never do

, since such actions may cause even more problems and breakdowns. Read on to find out what troubles awaited me next.

I flew up to the garage with wild noise and ringing. The neighbor in the garage was staying with his buddies at that time. When they ran out, they remarked to me that I would have to change the entire suspension, and when they examined it further, they completely upset me - I needed to digest the spar.

The garage is open, the most difficult thing remains - to get into this small opening when the car is thrown from side to side. But this problem turned out to be not the most important one; my battery ran out. The men, for which I am eternally grateful to them, lifted the car from behind and pushed me into the garage.

I was no longer in the mood to work on the car today, so I just looked at the bottom, took a couple of photos and stomped home in a despondent mood. Here are those photos:

I thought for a long time: buy a body from disassembly, or try to restore this one. It was difficult to find a healthy body, so I decided to cook it anyway. Two days later, that’s how long I was looking for a welder who was ready to take on this work, we, together with him, came to the garage so that he could look at the problem live. I prayed that he would take the job because... I couldn’t find those who work outside. And yeah, they agreed that I had enough electrodes and a nickel. Perhaps expensive, but I had no other options.

The next day I called a friend, with whom we removed the beam along with the racks. I had to tinker, since I didn’t have a puller for the struts, and I couldn’t use the keys. In the end, all nervous, I borrowed two hundred and bought this puller. Removed. And here it is, the problem that I spoke about above: my rear left pillar was broken. It just stopped working. The handbrake cable broke. I don’t know how seriously its breakage could have caused damage, but the pads seem to be intact, since after bleeding the brakes the car slows down.

It took two days to cut down and prepare the spar for welding. On the first day they cut it with a grinder, and on the second day they drilled out the factory rivets that attach the spar to the body and cut out the remaining rot with a chisel. This is what happened after cutting it down:

I went by bus to another city to get a new spar. I had to buy Movil for it in order to process spare parts, electrodes, drills, stripping and cutting discs for metal for the angle grinder. This is the kind of thing that had to be welded:

The entire work lasted four days. They worked slowly, but there was no need to rush, since the chaos was over and you could calmly go about your business

And yes, I’m crazy, I decided to cut the rear springs by 4 turns. Now there are 7 of them.

On the fourth day we assembled the beam and bled the brakes. Here are some photos:

Let's summarize the financial investments: 1. Spar - 900

rubles;
2. Movil - 190
rubles;
3. WD-40 (where would we be without it?) - 200
rubles;
4. Electrodes (OK-46, 2mm) - 700
rubles;
5. Drills for 5 mm, 5.5 mm and 6 mm - 40 rubles each, in total - 120
rubles;
6. Two cleaning discs for fifty dollars each - 100
rubles;
7. Two cutting discs for metal - 80
rubles;
8. Welder work - 5000
rubles.
TOTAL: 7290
rubles.

While my car was being repaired, they lent me a Shostik, which I drove all these days:

For those who were interested, thank you for reading my story. If you have any questions about the work, ask. I will answer everything and give you advice

Rear beam, VAZ 2109

Posts: 1,489

Hello everyone, in short, a year ago I noticed a crack in the seam on the rear beam (Fig. 1). I welded it, after 4 months I noticed the crack in the seam again. I went to the welder, he welded it completely, as in Fig. 2. The question is, what does this element affect? not the beam, but the corner itself that was scalded?

Attached images

Posts: 1,489

and this is how I scalded the welded one

Attached images

IMHO throw it in the ferrous metal.

Posts: 1,489

This is quite a responsible part, which, moreover, is under a heavy load. To make such a piece of iron burst, you have to try. There is usually no point in cooking such things - it will burst at the seam in another place, it’s easier to change it.

I completely agree. Quote: Cars of the Lada Samara family have a torsion bar suspension on the rear wheels. The guiding device in such a suspension is two trailing arms 2, which are connected to each other by an elastic U-shaped connector 19. Since this connector is significantly shifted forward from the wheel axis, the rear suspension of the VAZ 2108-2109 is similar in its kinematic properties to a completely independent suspension on trailing arms . Each wheel has an independent stroke due to the twisting of the amplifier, which has a U-shaped cross-section, which allows it to have high bending rigidity and low torsional rigidity.

Posts: 1,489

Thank you, of course, for the smart words, but is it possible to present them in a more or less understandable form?

If you are not afraid to stand somewhere on the road, far from home, then please, cook as much as you like.

In short, always remember that the rear beam on this auto-elastic element. Those. bends and works like a torsion bar. Well, everyone knows that a torsion bar is an elastic element that works to twist. Poor quality welding will sooner or later lead to a rupture of the weld, and the car will become uncontrollable. Do you need it?

Posts: 1,489

Of course it's not necessary. Why do the services say that you can cook, but you can’t cook only when there is a crack in the middle of the beam? And another question: does the rupture occur gradually, or does the entire corner come off at once?

Post edited by Lavrikml

— Aug 19 2013, 06:19

Recommendations for replacing the rear side members of the VAZ-2108-09

When replacing a LP, many craftsmen cut off the old body element with a gas cutter, but it is better to drill out the part.
When installing a new spar, it is very important to find the control points correctly and not to disturb the geometry of the body, otherwise the work will have to be redone and problems will arise.
It is recommended to grab the spar at three or four points; before thoroughly welding the part, it is recommended to try on the rear beam - the fasteners must match the studs.
Before installing the body element, the seat must be thoroughly cleaned of rust and well primed; if the metal is rusty, new plates must be welded.
You cannot weld with a continuous seam, this will weaken the metal of the body.

Read more: Tunnel from grants for VAZ 2107

Replacing rear side members is not an easy job, if you are not confident in your abilities, you should not take on it, it is better to use the services of professionals.

During the next pile-up with acceleration in a turn, I heard extraneous sounds coming from the trunk... this tore the beam from the spar...

the third plate is not included in the frame, but it’s clear where to cook it.

We connect it to the pipe in the threshold with a piece of 50 corners

, this is the one that is used as an amplifier

we cut more precisely, we have experience

I sincerely believe that doing this is faster than struggling under the car and welding the ceiling position to the already tired, rotten side members. The RDS was used as usual.

Posts 1 to 20 of 27

1 Topic by vova_2109 2009-04-19 19:43:21

vova_2109
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Registered: 2009-02-28
Messages: 10
Reputation: [ 0 | 0 ]

Topic: Rear Beam Broken

that's the gist of it! I noticed that the rear beam has burst about 5cm, is it possible to cook? won’t it burst? I don’t load the car and a maximum of 3 people travel.

2 Reply from Vovez 2009-04-19 20:20:59

Vovez
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Registered: 2008-12-02
Messages: 138
Reputation: [ 0 | 0 ]

Repairing the rear beam of a VAZ 2109

It is very difficult for a person who does not have the necessary experience to determine on their own what caused new noises in a car. This is due not only to a lack of practice, but also to the large number of variants of the problem. So, for example, a knocking stabilizer can “move” the silent block to the side, the noise can often be caused by bearings on the axle shafts - in general, there are many options. Therefore, to find out the exact problem, it is recommended to go to a service center and carry out the repair yourself.

Symptoms of a problem

There are several main signs of failure of the rear beam silent blocks, including:

Unstable behavior of the car on the roads;
Tires wear unevenly, which is not difficult to notice from the tread pattern;
When driving on a bad road (that is, 95% of all our roads), unpleasant squeaks and impacts on the car body are observed.

These signs are indirect, since they may be associated with other failures of the vehicle’s chassis. For example, dull knocks are also a sign of a faulty rear pillar. Therefore, in order to make sure that there is a particular problem, you will need to fully diagnose the chassis.

Malfunctions

Often, replacing the rear beam bushings is due to the fact that defects arise in the design of the element. They are like this:

The elasticity of the rubber element deteriorates;
The rubber breaks;
The central bushing is displaced;
Rotations occur in the seat.

If problems are detected with the silent block of the rear beam, you will need to drive the car into the garage in the near future and replace the damaged components. Unlike foreign cars, changing the silent seal on a VAZ 2109 is quite simple and without outside help. Plus it costs almost pennies.

Rear beam on a VAZ 2109 - installation and repair of the rear beam

I couldn’t sit calmly, I wanted to modify the rear suspension. The independent suspension was immediately dropped due to the cost of 27,500 auto product, judging by the price it was removed from F1 or it is made from vibranium from which Tony Stark’s father wanted to make a shield))). A beam with guy wires is what I need, I thought, BUT again the PRICE and my friend TOAD dissuaded me from rash actions.

After looking at the design of the reinforced beam and climbing the network, I decided to make it myself. To do this, I bought 2 jet rods from a Lada, 4 bolts and nuts. At work, without removing the beam from the machine, I took a tape measure, marked everything and went ahead. Ears for the levers were cut out of 3 mm sheet,

I haven’t installed the rod (stabilizer) while I’m riding like this. I wanted to make adjustable rods, but that's for next time.

Now about the result: the car has become more composed, turning and changing lanes goes better in the rut and confidently holds the road, maybe this is again a placebo, but I like it))).

Reaction rod 2101-07 large transverse 2x280 560 rub. Bolt m12x70x1.25 fastening reagent. rods 2101-07 4x20 80 rub. Nut m12x1.25 with nail. ring 4x10 40 rub.

It will take you 2 hours to do everything without rushing. That's all for now...

Repairing the rear beam of a VAZ 2109

It is very difficult for a person who does not have the necessary experience to determine on their own what caused new noises in a car. This is due not only to a lack of practice, but also to the large number of variants of the problem. So, for example, a knocking stabilizer can “move” the silent block to the side, the noise can often be caused by bearings on the axle shafts - in general, there are many options. Therefore, to find out the exact problem, it is recommended to go to a service center and carry out the repair yourself.

Installation and dismantling of beams

The VAZ 2109 beam is very convenient to install and dismantle when using a lift. But if your garage is not equipped with such an addition, then carefully lift the “back” of your swallow with a jack. For greater reliability, place special shoes or at least bricks under the wheels and engage the gear.

Once the vehicle is raised, the wheels can be unscrewed. Then remove the shock absorbers from the rear suspension. The parking brake cables are disconnected and the “shirts” are removed. The brackets securing the cables to the vehicle body are bent, and the cables themselves are removed from the brackets.

When dismantling the brake hoses located on both sides of the beam, be sure to plug the resulting holes with something. Otherwise, brake fluid will leak.

Unscrew the nut on both sides that serves to secure the beam to the brackets. Carefully knock out the bolts. Now you can pull out the beam. Some useful tips:

Before you begin work on removing the beam, loosen the tension on the nuts on the hub in advance.
If you need to replace a rubber-metal hinge, it is better to contact a specialist for this. Without a special tool and skills for such work, something good is unlikely to come of it.
If you look at the documentation of the VAZ2109, which is given by the manufacturer, then you need to remove the rear beam from the car along with the brackets. For this manipulation you need to unscrew the 3 nuts holding the structure. But the operating time of the vehicle makes its own adjustments. After a certain period of time, the studs begin to become corroded, and in some cases they may crack. It is because of this that it is more expedient to dismantle the beam by simply disconnecting it from the bracket and leaving it suspended.
The rear beam of the VAZ 2109 is fastened in the reverse order of removal.
After returning the vehicle to a solid surface, all nuts must be tightened. The tightening procedure should be repeated after 80 km.
After installing the beam, it is important to bleed the brake system, adjust the parking brake, and check the wheel alignment.

As you can see, removing and installing the rear beam of a VAZ 2109 is not at all difficult; all car owners can do this work. The main thing is time and desire.

Rear spar repair kit 2108-09

The rear spar repair insert allows you to replace only part of the body part, which simplifies the repair and makes it cheaper. The repair kit is a reinforcing element located on a bend; it is believed that this particular place on the body is subject to intense rusting.

In practice, it is not always possible to use a repair insert, since both the rear beam fastening in the side member (the main problem of 2109) and the jack often rot. The average cost of a repair insert in auto stores is 700-800 rubles, catalog numbers are 2108-5101372 and 2108-5101373 (right and left sides).

Replacing the rear suspension beam on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

It is more convenient to remove the rear axle from a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 on a lift. If it is not possible to place the car on a lift, carefully raise the rear of the car by placing a jack under the beam. Then install supports under the jack sockets on the car body.

USEFUL ADVICE When removing the rear axle, it is necessary to have assistants who will hold and lower the rear suspension beam. If, after removing the rear suspension beam, you intend to disassemble the rear beam, first loosen the wheel bolts and hub nuts.

WARNING Loosen and tighten wheel bolts only with the vehicle on the ground. The tightening torque of the bolts is 65-95 Nm (6.5-9.5 kgf-m).

1. Remove the tips of both parking brake cables from the equalizer and remove the cables from the holders on the bottom of the car (see “Parking brake” in section 8 “Brake system”).

Removing rotten parts

We begin repairs by removing rotten, rusty and deformed parts. I will describe the process using the example of a car, a VAZ 2109, which I was tasked with repairing. First, I’ll give you my problem areas in the car. The front floor of the car is completely rotten with all the jacks and reinforcements. And the jack could only be used with a sub-engine beam. The rear floor was also rotted. Corrosion also affected the car doors. In general, the bottom was almost absent. The wings were not in the best condition.

The front hood was noticeably rusty, all the floor connectors and the floor of the gas tank and spare tire were missing. The same fate befell the reflectors of almost all headlights. The front spar burst in the gearbox area. And above the muffler, in the floor of the trunk, there was a huge hole. The corners of the door were “eaten” by corrosion.

Repair of the rear beam on a VAZ 2109 and its modernization with your own hands

Rear beam VAZ 2109: 1 - rubber-metal hinge; 2 — rear suspension arm mounting bracket; 3 — shock absorber casing; 4 — compression stroke buffer; 5 — casing cover; 6 — support washer; 7 — shock absorber cushions; 8 — spacer sleeve; 9 — shock absorber; 10 - insulating gasket; 11 — rear suspension spring; 12 — lever connector; 13 — rear suspension beam arm; 14 — shock absorber mounting bracket; 15 - flange; 16 — lever bushing

Beam structure

On the inside, brackets with special holes necessary for installing shock absorbers are attached to the suspension arms. There are also flanges located there, bolted to the axle of the rear wheels and shields located on the brake mechanism. Bushings are attached to the suspension arms on the front side. They are inserted into hinges made of a special rubber-metal material.

Bolts pass through them, connecting the suspension arms together with the stamped-welded brackets. They, in turn, are attached with bolts welded into the side member of the car. The springs of the rear beam of the VAZ 2110 are located in such a way that the first end rests against the recess of the shock absorber, and the second passes through a special gasket directly into the support area attached to the underside of the arch on the car body.

The gasket acts as an insulator and is made of rubber. The shock absorber mounted on the rear suspension is double-acting. It is attached with short bolts directly to a bracket located on the trailing arm in the rear suspension area. In the upper part, fastening is done using the rod method. The rod is fixed in the upper support directly on the suspension spring. The shock absorber is fixed through a protective rubber pad and a support washer.

A double row thrust bearing is located in the middle of the hub. Its structure is very similar to the bearing located in the hub of the front wheels, but it is much smaller in size.

DIY reinforced rear beam for VAZ 2109

Marking the middle of the beam.

Drilled the center brackets.

Here they are already in place.

With the side ones it was more difficult, I drilled them one by one, welded the inner one and marked the outer one through it.

All with copper grease.

I haven’t installed the rod (stabilizer) while I’m riding like this. I wanted to make adjustable rods, but that's for next time.

Now about the result: the car has become more composed, turning and changing lanes goes better in the rut and confidently holds the road, maybe this is again a placebo, but I like it))).

Reaction rod 2101-07 large transverse 2x280 560 rub.
Bolt m12x70x1.25 fastening reagent. rods 2101-07 4x20 80 rub.
Nut m12x1.25 with nail. ring 4x10 40 rub.

It will take you 2 hours to do everything without rushing. That's all for now...

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Silent blocks produced by AvtoVAZ can safely be called one of the highest quality parts. It is not surprising that other foreign manufacturers also use them for their cars.

Element appearance

The durability of almost any part, including the silent block, directly depends on the driving style of the motorist. The service life of the element is more than 30 thousand kilometers.

Replacing rear beam silent blocks on a VAZ 2109

To replace you will need:

New rear silent blocks;
A small wooden beam;
A device for pressing in a silent block (you can do the job without it);
Open-end wrenches;
Socket wrenches;
Spanners;
Hammer.

When everything is ready, you can start working.

Place the car on a level surface in the garage above a pit or overpass. Be sure to place wheel chocks and shoes under the wheels. All for your safety.
It is better to remove the rear wheel to make it easier to work.
But it is not at all necessary to remove the rear beam. Just complicate your work with unnecessary dismantling processes.
On the left side of the driver is the pressure regulator rod for the rear brakes. It will disturb you while you work, so we advise you to remove it. This is done by removing the locking bracket of the rod and the handbrake cable. You will remove the latter from the right side from the mount.
Unscrew the nut from the bolt with a 12mm wrench that holds the rear beam to the bracket. This may cause problems. Place a socket wrench on the driver to increase leverage on the fastener. Remove the bolt, lift the car with a jack and move the beam down. It will come out of the eyelet this way. Do not overdo it to avoid damaging the nearby brake hose. If you press too hard on the pry bar while moving the eye, you risk breaking the hose.
Take a pre-prepared wooden block and insert it between the body and the beam. This must be done so that the beam is below the eye.
Using a hammer and a drift (regular metal tubing will do), knock out the old worn bushings. By the way, if you come across such a concept as “fungi”, don’t worry. This is what car enthusiasts often call these bushings because of their external similarity.
Clean the seat from accumulated dirt and rust. Be sure to lubricate the areas with soapy water. Without it, it will be difficult to press in new silent blocks. Or use a simple dish detergent. Under no circumstances should you lubricate the seats with grease or oil, as these substances will soon begin to corrode the element.

Now it presses in new elements. Ideally, you should have a special pressing tool. If you don't have one, use a regular hammer.
Take out a wooden block.
Armed with a second jack, lift the beam and insert the mounting bolt into place and tighten it with a nut.
Reinstall the rear wheel and lower the car to the ground.

Only upon completion of all these stages can the bolts of the new silent blocks be tightened until they stop.

Such an operation should not cause any special problems, so it is not at all necessary to go to a service station and spend extra money.

Replacing the rear right side member 2109

The condition of the rear spar is determined by external inspection; if the body element has traces of severe corrosion and is thoroughly rotten, it must be replaced; in many cases its repair is impractical. Even before performing work, it is necessary to inspect the car body itself; often the iron on the 2109 rots to such an extent that there is practically nothing to weld to.

To carry out repair work you will need:

welding machine;
electric drill with drills;
screwdrivers;
a set of keys;
hammer;
core;
chisel;
cleaning wheels.

You must first buy the floor spar itself (LP), the average retail price of the body element in auto stores is from 1800 to 2500 rubles, catalog number is 2108-5101372. This spare part is suitable for model 2108-09-13-14, with minimal modifications it can be installed on VAZ cars 21099 and 2115. Since when replacing a spar you basically have to work under the car, you need to think about how to make it easy to get to below. There are several options here:

use a car lift;
carry out work in the inspection pit, hanging the rear part of the body on “goats” or other stands;
turn the car over on its side, using a reliable support.

Before you start drilling out the old spar, you need to partially disassemble the car and remove:

rear seats;
gas tank;
rear floor trim;
rugs;
rear beam (you will have to disconnect the handbrake cables and brake hoses).

After disassembly, you can begin to directly remove the rear LP; to do this, you need to find the attachment points, drill them at the spot welding points using a drill clamped into the drill chuck. After dismantling the body part, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the metal under the spar and prime it, remove the shipping primer from the new part (it can be removed very effectively and quickly using sandblasting). In order for the right side member to fit exactly in place, you should use measurements (there are control points for attaching units), there must be a certain distance between the elements of the front and rear suspension (between the fastening of the rear beam and the front wishbone).

After determining the control points, the spar is tacked by welding in several places, the correct installation is checked, then the part is finally welded to the seat. The final stage of repair consists of the following steps:

cleaning welding scale with a grinding wheel;
degreasing the metal surface;
application of primer and anti-corrosion coating.

Very important conditions when performing welding are an intermittent seam, a maximum length of 4-5 mm. A continuous weld is unacceptable; with such welding, the body loses its elasticity and becomes very rigid. The left rear lip on the “Eight” or “Nine” changes in exactly the same way as the body element on the right side, the procedure for performing the work and the installation principle are the same.

Read more: Check valve for injection pump Yamz 238