Replacing the front wheel bearing Lada Kalina

Every Lada Kalina owner will have to replace the front wheel bearing at some point. This element may become unusable after 20,000 miles. Sometimes situations occur when a part “asks” for replacement before the designated interval. At this point, the quality of the hinge itself has a significant impact. Service manuals prescribe the need for replacement every 25-30 thousand km.

VAZ 1118 front wheel bearing size

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, about roller bearings:

They differ, in comparison with ball bearings of the same size, in having a greater load capacity. And they have the unpleasant property of “what if” - they jam right away, while the ball ones will play and buzz, but they will get you home.

The information comes from AZLK factory specialists, who at one time were forced to cross out the rollers from the list of acceptable ones for installation on 2141.

The feedback system of JSC AVTOVAZ received a question from you:

07/06/11
“Hello, I have the following question: what kind of lubricant is used in the VBF 256707A1KE12 wheel bearings installed in the front wheels of the Lada Kalina on the AvtoVAZ conveyor?
I ask the question because I could not find this information anywhere (including in the bearing markings), and mixing some lubricants is unacceptable. Waiting for an answer. Andrey" 07/06/11
"Good afternoon, Andrey Toropov!
The front wheel bearings use CHEVRON SRI GREASE NLGI 2 lubricant.” Department of inspection of service and sales network enterprises. Head Office. Anton Vladimirovich

You can add lubricant to the hubs without pressing them out. Carefully bend the edge of the seal and use a 2 ml medical syringe with a medium-thick needle. Don't forget about lubricant compatibility.

Currently, an unacceptable situation has arisen in terms of removing the bearings of the front and rear hubs of front-wheel drive vehicles. As a result of the commission work carried out in the city of Togliatti, it was noted that for 30 days there were no complaints from owners of front-wheel drive cars regarding defects in wheel bearings. I draw your attention to the fact that PSSS employees make a conclusion about the discrepancy between the wheel bearings based on the feeling of play when the wheel rocks in a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation, WHICH IS NOT A FAILURE SIGN! The reason for replacing the bearing may be an increased axial clearance, measured using the technology set out in TI 3100.25100.20434, see the appendix for parameters. When owners of front-wheel drive cars make a complaint about the “noise” of the wheel bearings, I PRESCRIBE: 1. Check the compliance of the tires and wheels installed on the car with the requirements of the operating manual, as well as their condition. 2. If there are no deviations according to point 1, make a test drive. If studded tires or tires with an enlarged tread pattern are installed on a vehicle, a test drive must be carried out with the tires that are equipped with the vehicle at JSC AVTOVAZ. 3. If the presence of non-functional noise is confirmed, which can manifest itself from “rustle” to “hum” or “rumble”, it is necessary to conduct additional listening to the bearing when rotating the wheel on a suspended car using a phonendoscope (the rod touches the fist when checking the front bearing, the rod touches the axle when checking the rear), excluding contact between the elements of the hub units and brake mechanisms. 4. If non-functional bearing noise is detected, it must be removed from the vehicle. If unauthorized tampering with the hub assembly is detected (re-caulking of the nut or missing caulking), replacement will be carried out at the owner’s expense. 5. After dismantling, check that the date of manufacture and bearing markings match. If there are no deviations, it is necessary to conduct a micrometering of the mating surfaces (see appendix). Based on the measurement results, decide on a method for eliminating the discrepancy and coding the defect.

Steering knuckle 11180-3001014/15 Diameter for bearing Ø68 mm, (67.94…67.97) mm

Front hub 11180-3103012 Bearing diameter Ø35 mm, (35.002…35.018) mm

Hub bearing 11180-3103020 Outer diameter Ø68.015 – 0.011 mm, (68.004…68.015) mm Inner diameter Ø35 mm, (34.966…34.976) mm

Steering knuckle 21080-3001014/15 Diameter for bearing Ø64 mm, (63.94…63.97) mm

Front hub 21080-3103012 Bearing diameter Ø34 mm, (34.002…34.018) mm

Hub bearing 21080-3103020 Outer diameter Ø64 – 0.011 mm, (63.989…64.000) mm Inner diameter Ø34 mm, (33.99…34.00) mm

Wheel axle 21080-3104055 Bearing diameter Ø30 mm, (29.980. 29.998) mm

Rear hub 21100-3104015 Bearing diameter Ø60 mm, (59.94. 59.97) mm

Hub bearing 21080-3104020 Outer diameter Ø60 – 0.011 mm, (59.989…60.000) mm Inner diameter Ø30 mm, (29.992…30.000) mm

1. 11180-3103020-00 supplier of military-industrial complex (80280). On the seal: 256707А1КЭ12, VBF, RUSSIA, symbol of the year of manufacture. It is allowed to apply the symbol of the year of manufacture on the outer surface (Ø68) of the outer ring. 2. 11180-3103020-02 supplier EPK (78669). On the mud deflector washer: 6-256707АЭКЛ20, SPZ, symbol of the year of manufacture. It is allowed to mark on the outer surface (Ø68) of the outer ring the symbol of the year of manufacture and the symbol of the lubricant (L20 or L19). 3. 11180-3103020-03 supplier EPK (78669). On the mud deflector washer: 6-256707EK12, VPZ, year of manufacture (last two digits of the year of manufacture). On the outer surface (Ø68) of the outer ring there is a lubricant symbol (L20, L19, C28 or C35). 4. 2108-3103020-01 p

Military industrial complex provider (80280).
On the seal: 256907 AKE12, VBF, RUSSIA, symbol of the year of manufacture. It is allowed to mark on the end of the inner ring. 5. 2108-3103020-02
supplier EPK (78669)
.
On the mud deflector washer: 6-256907EK12, SPZ, symbol of the year of manufacture, symbol of lubrication (L20 or L19).
It is permissible to mark the symbol of the year of manufacture and the symbol of the lubricant on the outer surface (Æ 64) of the outer ring. 6. 21080-3104020-00
military industrial complex supplier (80280)
.
On the seal: - 256706E1, VBF, RUSSIA, symbol of the year of manufacture;
on cars with a production date from November 2009 - 256706 AKE12, VBF, RUSSIA, symbol of the year of manufacture. It is allowed to mark the symbol of the year of manufacture on the end of the inner ring. 7. 21080-3104020-02
supplier EPK (78669)
.
On the seal: 6U-537906E1 VPZ; at the end of the inner ring: symbol of the year of manufacture, symbol of the lubricant (L20, L19, C28 or C35). 8. 21080-3104020-04 supplier EPK (78669). On the seal: 6-256706E10; on the outer surface (Ø60) of the outer ring: SPZ, symbol of the year of manufacture, symbol of the lubricant brand (L20).

Permissible values ​​of axial clearances of bearings in the assembled hub assembly

measured according to TI 3100.25100.20434

Description of the brake system repair process

It is necessary to jack up the car in order to be able to remove the necessary wheel. Next you need to inspect the pads, determining the level and uniformity of their wear. Then you should disconnect the caliper from the bracket and visually inspect the piston boot for damage. The piston should have an easy stroke when it is pressed into the body. It happens that even behind a seemingly intact boot there is hidden dirt and moisture, and therefore rust.

Therefore, it is worth looking under the boot, carefully using the tool. The piston surface must be clean and smooth. If any of these defects are detected, the caliper needs to be disassembled and restored using a repair kit. In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the guides and the contact points of the pads for free movement.

Disassembling the brake caliper:

1. Disconnect the brake hoses from the caliper. To prevent fluid loss, the hose should be squashed or the hole plugged.
2. Remove the piston boot.
3. Next, remove the piston from the caliper body.
4. Removing the old cuff.
5. Cleaning the boot seating area, as well as the cuff groove.
6. Rinse the entire assembly as a whole and with clean hands
7. Installing a cuff lubricated with brake fluid into the landing groove.
8. Installing a cleaned or new piston. It is carried out vertically, using even hands.
9. Putting on the boot in the middle of the piston path.
10. After the piston enters the housing, it should be pushed out a little again, for example with air. This procedure will help ensure that the boot sits smoothly and is not damaged.
11. The recessed piston can again be ready for the installation process.

It is also worth remembering to pump the circuit that has been subject to fluid leakage.

Do-it-yourself brake caliper repairs are easy to do with basic plumbing skills. The main thing is not to forget to be attentive and carefully carry out all the described nuances of the work. After all, the braking system is the key to the safe movement of a car.

Front wheel bearing for Kalina, Priora, Granta

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Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending a front wheel bearing, please indicate your car model, year of manufacture, front or rear in the “Comment” line.

All VAZ cars are equipped with only three types of wheel bearings - wheel bearings for front-wheel drive VAZ cars, wheel hub bearings for rear wheels, and wheel bearings for Kalina and Grant cars, which are smaller in size.

Hubs play a very important role. Without them, the wheels will not rotate at the required speed, which will first lead to damage to the brake system, and then to failure of the entire car.

The front wheel hub is a rather complex forging. In the front wheel hub there is a double-row angular contact ball bearing, into which a driver with an internal splined cylindrical surface is inserted for the splined end of the drive shaft. To protect the hub, there is a cap covered with dirt-reflecting rings.

The bearing is of the HUB-1 type, has a double-row design, is a type of angular contact ball bearings with closed working surfaces and does not have flanges for attachment to the hub, which does not require lubrication and adjustment during vehicle operation.

The drive shaft is secured in the driver with a self-locking nut and washer. The nut has an external hexagonal key, thread M 20 x 1.5, tightening 290 Nm ±10%.

If you hear a noise, a characteristic noise or a certain hum in the front part of your car, which only intensifies when entering a turn, this indicates the need to urgently replace the front wheel bearing on your VAZ 1118, 2170, 2190, 2192.

If the hum is heard on only one side, then only one bearing is damaged. But most likely the second one doesn’t have much time left either. Buying two bearings as a set will be cheaper than buying them separately.

When pressing out the wheel hubs, the bearings are destroyed. Therefore, pressing out the hubs should be carried out only in cases of increased bearing noise or a significant increase in the gap in them: more than 0.015 mm in the front and more than 0.030 in the rear.

Other articles of the product and its analogues in the catalogs: 11180310302000, T-02148, KT 100534, 11180310302004.

VAZ 1117-1119, VAZ 2170-2172, VAZ 2190, VAZ 2192-2194 (Kalina 2), VAZ 1117-1119, Largus, Datsun.

Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to independently replace the front wheel bearing on a VAZ family car.

AvtoAzbuka online store, repair costs will be minimal.

Just COMPARE and BE SURE.

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Before shipping, we will carefully check, carefully pack and quickly deliver to the Russian Post or to a transport company!

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Pay with any card on the website for ordering and delivery. There is also an option to pay only for the order - and pay for delivery upon receipt of the goods

If you want to pay for your order upon receipt of the goods, then we can only send you by Russian Post - Cash on Delivery. We only ask you to pay for shipping.

Practice tips

Here they are:

— when purchasing a bearing in a car store, do not forget to ask for a quality certificate;

- it is difficult to find a mandrel - use the ring of an old part;

— throw away the old hub nut and replace it with a new one;

- it is advisable to change the bearing on the other side of the machine, even if it does not hum. Its service life is coming to an end. So replace both at once;

— if you want to speed up the process of dismantling the bearing and pressing it in, contact a service station. There is usually a press there. You will perform only this operation for a small fee, and do the rest in your garage;

— If you don’t have a torque wrench, do the following.

Tighten the bolts until they stop and then loosen them by turning the key back 20 degrees;

— pay attention when pressing the bearing so that there is no distortion. For easier entry, you need to heat the part, but not the bearing

For easier entry, you need to heat the part, but not the bearing.

I wish you success in your renovation.

But if you have any questions during the bearing replacement process, and you don’t know what to do, contact me in the comments.

Always happy to help with advice.

Lada Kalina - replacing the front wheel bearing

1. ➡️ How to choose a front wheel bearing for the Lada Kalina ➡️ Table of bearing manufacturers
2. ➡️ Price and dimensions of wheel bearing for Lada Kalina

On cars of the Lada family, the wheel bearing often fails. Reasons: bad roads, careless driving, and bearing failure after a run of 50,000 km.

The main sign that the wheel bearing needs to be replaced is that the Kalina begins to hum in the front of the car when driving even on a flat road, and a hum can be heard from the front chassis. Also reasons: vibration and grinding noise when turning. All these signs indicate that diagnosis and repair are needed.

Diagnostics of the Kalina wheel bearing:

• Lift the wheel with a jack and move it with your hands in the axial direction; if the play is more than 3 mm, then the part is not working properly.
• Also, if a wheel breaks down, the ease of rotation of the wheel is worse, much worse, and you may hear a characteristic grinding noise when rotating.
• You can professionally assess the condition of the bearing by measuring the axial play.

Typical symptoms

This is the most interesting thing. In order to determine the failure of a node, there are several ways. At the very initial stage, the behavior of the bearing can be ignored; at this stage, a slight hum, buzzing, and small tapping noises can be heard. Also, one of the first symptoms is a hum when turning (at the very initial stages of a breakdown). This sound is often confused with tire noise. However, over time the sound can be compared to a jet plane. An indirect sign can be considered the complete disappearance of any noise at the moment of turning, but when the car moves in a straight line, everything returns.

Lada Kalina - front wheel bearing

The front wheel bearing marking is 6-256707 AKE12.

When choosing a manufacturer of spare parts for the front hub for the Lada Kalina, the question arises about the manufacturers. Let's list some of them.

Recommended Front Wheel Bearing Manufacturers

Kalina front wheel bearing price

Of the options presented above, the cheapest is EPK. The cost is on average 500 rubles. 23 PZ produces such products at a price of 700 rubles. The LSA brand, a Slovak factory, is also sold, expensive but at the same time high-quality products.

Front wheel bearing Kalina - dimensions

Parameters and dimensions of bearing 6-256707:

1. Hole diameter: 35mm;
2. External diameter: 68 mm;
3. Height: 37 mm;
4. Speed: 3500 rpm.

DIY repairs: common problems

So, you don’t need to have a mechanic’s education to do some simple work with your own hands.

It is important to follow safety regulations. Always (in the case of a new car) when purchasing a Lada Kalina, it comes with detailed instructions that help you understand the intricacies of the process

The following features of doing it yourself can be highlighted:

1. It must be remembered that the Lada Kalina is available with two types of engines and standardized units, so when starting repairs, you need to be 100% sure of the modification.
2. If repairs are carried out related to the fuel system or engine, it is necessary to extract the treated gases.
3. Oil and other liquids are added only according to the standards specified in the instructions, otherwise the filter will need to be replaced.

If you are going to paint the body, remember that it is better to do it in a ventilated area. You also need to have a paint sprayer; other equipment is not suitable here. Parts that will not be painted, such as headlights, need to be covered with paper.

Replacing the front wheel bearing Kalina - preparation for repair

Replace on a flat surface, but it would be better to use an inspection hole. Put the car in first gear, secure it with wheel chocks, and remove the car from the handbrake. You will need a set of locksmith tools:

• hub puller with a set of discs of various diameters;
• hammer and chisel;
• socket wrench at “30”;
• impact screwdriver;
• round nose pliers.
• a set of open-end and ring wrenches, including a torque one (torque).

We lift the entire front of the car (both wheels) and begin replacement. Check out the design of the Kalina front hub:

Replacing the outer CV joint of Lada Kalina

You can change the external “grenade” on a Kalina without a lift or pit, but the car must be placed on a level surface. We make the replacement as follows:

• first of all, we loosen and unscrew the hub nut - when the wheel is removed, it will be problematic to move it;
• loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car, and remove the wheel. To prevent the car from rolling, it is necessary to put stops under the rear wheels, and in front next to the jack to secure it, place a support (for example, a wooden beam) under the threshold;
• unscrew the ball joint bolts from below (2 pcs.);
• pull the steering knuckle towards you and release the wheel drive;
• remove the clamps from the boot;
• move the boot closer to the gearbox, use a bronze or copper drift to knock out the outer CV joint;
• we install the new part in place, fill the joint with grease, and secure the boot to the CV joint with new clamps;
• We assemble all the parts.

Direct replacement of the front wheel bearing Lada Kalina

Now we will describe in detail the replacement process, with a description of all operations, how to remove and install all hub components.

1. First, remove the decorative cap on the hub nut.

1. Unlock and loosen the hub locknut itself.

1. Unscrew the hub bearing locknut using a socket wrench.

1. Remove the wheel and then unscrew the brake disc.

1. Now we unscrew and remove the brake caliper, and secure it to the stand with wire.

1. These bolts secure the repeater mechanism to the telescopic strut of the Lada Kalina.

1. We unscrew these bolts with a key “17”, remove the Kalina rotary flywheel.

1. Now we loosen the bolts that secure the ball joint to the knuckle.

1. We disconnect the ball joint with the bearing from it and remove the Kalina CV joint from the hub.

1. Now the Lada hub together with the turning mechanism can be easily removed by hand.

1. We place the entire structure on the jaws of a vice, and using a mandrel of a suitable diameter and a hammer, carefully compress the hub, striking the end of the hub, NOT THE BEARING .

1. The hub will fall out, leaving the inner part of the part on it, and the outer part in the knuckle body, as in the photo:

1. Next, remove the retaining rings from the knuckle body using pliers.

1. Now the rings will not interfere with pressing the outer part of the wheel bearing out of the housing with a puller.

1. This is also done using a hammer and a mandrel, holding the body in a vice.

Diagnostics on a lift or using a jack

There is another way to determine which wheel bearing is humming. In this case, it is necessary to inspect the machine on a lift. A breakdown is detected by how smoothly and evenly the wheel rotates. They also look at the play in the vertical plane. In order to determine the malfunction, grab the lower and upper points of the wheel with your hands and rock it. Only a small amount of play is allowed on the front wheels with the MacPherson type suspension. There should be no play on the rear wheel, as well as on the front wheel, where the suspension is multi-link.

Front wheel bearing SS20 for VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119 Kalina (repair kit)

Wheel bearings are subject to extreme loads, especially on Russian roads. To ensure rotation of the car wheel without play, with minimal noise and friction, it is necessary to carefully select wheel bearings. SS20 hub bearings have passed 100% quality control and guarantee car owners confidence in road safety.

Advantages of SS20 hub bearings

• high service life and reliability of the bearing;
• quiet operation;
• long service life;
• ensure easy and silent rotation of the wheels;
• high-quality high-temperature lubricant;
• sealed ball bearings are lubricated during assembly and do not require maintenance;
• low level of mechanical losses in the bearing due to low surface roughness and high dimensional accuracy;
• comprehensive protection against counterfeiting;
• complete installation kit.

In the hub units of front-wheel drive VAZ cars, double-row ball bearings are used. During assembly, the required amount of lubricant is placed in the bearing. The internal space of the bearing is reliably sealed with oil seals, which prevents contamination from getting inside. This ensures normal lubrication of the raceways, balls and cages throughout their service life. Wheel bearings SS20 for front-wheel drive VAZ cars are maintenance-free and do not require adjustment or lubrication during operation. This approach significantly reduces the labor intensity of vehicle maintenance and at the same time ensures high reliability.

The reliability of the bearing directly depends on the accuracy of manufacturing and compliance with all standards during the production of the bearing. Therefore, for SS20 double-row ball bearings we carry out a number of additional checks, for example, monitoring the amount of axial clearance and radial “runout” in the mounted state.

1 year warranty

The wheel bearing is one of the most heavily loaded suspension elements. Wheel bearings allow wheels to rotate and the vehicle to move as a whole. In addition to the perception of loads directly from the wheel rolling on the road, shock and thermal loads are added. Through the hub bearing, all forces arising in the contact patch between the wheel and the road are transmitted to the suspension.

That is, of the suspension and the car depends on the correct choice of front and rear wheel bearings . The main problem when replacing wheel bearings is the large number of low-quality fakes on the market that last no more than 2-3 thousand km, as well as violation of installation technology and incorrect adjustment of clearances.

Malfunctions of wheel bearings manifest themselves in the form of hum, knocking and play when the car is moving, clicks when starting and stopping. As raceways, rolling elements and cages wear, rolling resistance increases and this is accompanied by increased noise and heating of the bearings.

You can determine the malfunction of the wheel bearings yourself. To do this you need:

1. Check ease of rotation. Spin the suspended wheel with a sharp jerk and evaluate the noise level emitted by the bearing during rotation. The wheel run-out time is also estimated.
2. Determine the presence of play in the hub bearing. On a suspended wheel, applying a load with your hands in the vertical and horizontal planes, check for swing (play) in the bearing. By applying force along the axis of rotation of the wheel, you can estimate the axial clearance.

SS20 wheel bearings will help you avoid problems with low-quality spare parts. The reliability and durability of SS20 bearings is achieved through:

• accuracy of geometric dimensions in the design and production of a product;
• use of high quality steel;
• achieving the required level of surface roughness;
• use of high-tech equipment.

The manufacturing precision of wheel bearings, surface roughness and rolling elements are the key aspects that influence the level of mechanical losses in the bearing and, ultimately, determine the noise class.

During production, the service life of the hub bearings is checked selectively from the batch before failure on a stand that simulates real loads on the bearing. As part of a comprehensive quality assessment, bearing runout is checked with an assessment of the reduction in speed at two stages from 100% to 70%, and the drop in speed from the initial stage to a complete stop. At the same time, the vibroacoustic parameters of the freewheel bearing are checked.

A whole range of serious checks at all stages of the production process allows us to guarantee the buyer the high quality and reliability of SS20 wheel bearings.

SS20 hub bearings have the SS20 branding and additional protection against counterfeiting, which will provide car owners with confidence and safety on the road, and protect them from possible financial and time losses when using counterfeits.

The high quality of the lubricant ensures a service life of up to 300,000 km in the wheel bearing assembly. The amount of grease is calculated to ensure reliable lubrication of the bearings throughout their entire service life. The operating temperature range of the lubricant is from –40°С to +180°С.

Repair kits for front and rear hubs of front-wheel drive VAZ cars

In the hub units of front-wheel drive VAZ cars, double-row ball bearings are used. During assembly, the required amount of lubricant is placed in the bearing. The internal space of the bearing is reliably sealed with oil seals, which prevents contamination from getting inside. This ensures normal lubrication of the raceways, balls and cages throughout their service life. Wheel bearings SS20 for front-wheel drive VAZ cars are maintenance-free and do not require adjustment or lubrication during operation. This approach significantly reduces the labor intensity of vehicle maintenance and at the same time ensures high reliability.

The reliability of the bearing directly depends on the accuracy of manufacturing and compliance with all standards during the production of the bearing. Therefore, for SS20 double-row ball bearings we carry out a number of additional checks, for example, monitoring the amount of axial clearance and radial “runout” in the mounted state.

Causes of failure

The caliper as an element of disc brakes is subjected to significant temperature loads, as well as exposure to external adverse factors: dirt, dust, moisture, chemicals. All this happens due to the fact that his device does not allow him to be protected from these negative phenomena. If there is significant overheating, as well as if the boot ruptures, the lubrication of the guides may disappear.

Improper maintenance of the guides, in which some craftsmen manage to stuff inappropriate lubricant into their boots: graphite or similar, leads to their swelling and souring, after which they jam or knock when suddenly activated.

A rupture of the piston boot causes dirt and moisture to enter it. After which it stops working - it starts to jam or, conversely, knock.

Deformation of the sealing ring contributes to brake fluid leakage and oiling of the pads.

We expel air from the cooling system

The cooling system can become airy for various reasons, and first of all, the heater in the cabin stops blowing warm air, the temperature rises, and the antifreeze boils. If you squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses, you feel that they are empty, there is no coolant in them. Often, “airing” occurs after replacing the heater radiator, and it is sometimes very difficult to remove air from the system. Alternatively, you can install an additional tee on the lower heater pipe under the hood, and lead the new hose into the expansion tank from above; a plug should be placed in the lower pipe from the tank to the lower radiator pipe.

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Tools:

• Tubular socket wrench 17 mm
• Straight box spanner 7 mm
• Straight box spanner 17 mm
• Driver for socket attachment
• Knob attachment 30 mm
• Large flat screwdriver
• Beard
• Large hammer
• Shoes
• Jack
• Support posts
• Soft metal drift
• Vise
• Dull chisel
• Double jaw puller
• Cup puller
• Circlip pliers
• Needle file
• Wheel key

Parts and consumables:

• Bolts M12x1.25 mm, length about 130 mm, 2 pcs.
• Front wheel bearing
• Brake disc

Note:

The work can be carried out on a flat area, but it is more convenient on an inspection ditch or overpass.

1. You can replace the bearing in two ways - on the car, without removing the steering knuckle and thereby not disturbing the wheel camber angle, or by first removing the steering knuckle. The work is shown on the right wheel bearing. The left wheel hub bearing is replaced in the same way.

2. Loosen the wheel bolts.

3. Use a screwdriver to pry off the protective cap of the wheel hub.

4. Remove the protective cap of the wheel hub, which is fitted with a rubber O-ring.

5. Use a beard to straighten the dented collar of the hub bearing nut in two places.

6. Apply the parking brake, engage first gear and place shoes under the wheels.

7. Use a 30mm socket to loosen the hub bearing nut. The nut is tightened with a large torque, so the head and driver must be strong enough to transmit the necessary force.