Description of signs and symbols on the Niva instrument panel, panel repair, combination diagram


Reasons why the backlight of the Lada 4×4 instrument panel (VAZ 2121, 2131) does not light up

During the operation of an SUV, its owners often report problems related to electrical equipment.
Malfunctions in the operation of the backlight or interior lighting are the most common. This time we will consider a specific case when the instrument cluster illumination does not work on a Lada 4×4. Procedure if the dashboard light does not come on:

  1. In the mounting block, check fuse F8 (8A);
  2. Remove the instrument panel and check the backlight by connecting +12V to pin No. 4 and ground to pin No. 6 of the red block. If necessary, replace the lamps;
  3. If the instrument lights come on, then the cause of the malfunction is poor contact or a break. Check the connections on the ground nut, which is located directly behind the instrument panel;

It is also recommended to clean the battery terminals. Less commonly, the cause of a non-working backlight is the instrument lighting regulator or a malfunction in the instrument panel itself. In this case, we check by connecting a known working part.

Have you encountered a problem when the panel backlight does not light up on a Lada 4×4? What was the reason? Let us remind you that other instructions for repairing and operating an SUV can be found in this category or by content.

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How to adjust

If you were unable to find the original sensor and had to buy an analogue, then the new resistor after replacement will lie, since it does not fit the parameters a little. This deficiency can be corrected. This is exactly why you will need pliers (2 pcs.). The order is as follows:

  1. Fill the fuel tank full.
  2. Turn on the ignition and remember the arrow readings (you can draw it on paper).
  3. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
  4. Dismantle the FLS and slightly bend the lever with pliers (hold it firmly at the base with just one pliers).
  5. Then install the sensor in the tank, connect the battery and turn the ignition switch.

Your task is to ensure that the arrow coincides exactly with the unit scale (1). The operation must be repeated until the result is achieved. This usually takes 2-3 approaches.

VAZ 2131 panel instruments do not work

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I had a similar problem, only the car started, but the rest didn’t work. Look at all the contacts in the female-male blocks under the dashboard. To the left of my steering wheel, in the area of ​​the headlight range control, a contact has burned out in one of the pads. Here is this block (if memory serves): https://www.autoprospect.ru/vaz/21213-niva/images/26-2121-24-28-06.jpg

+1. Under the dashboard on the left there is a large connector with thick wires. A hundred pounds of contacts have oxidized/burnt. He generally causes a lot of trouble. At one time, I was left at Nivka at night without light, stops, a radio of some other crap, although the engine was working. I moved the connector and everything worked as it should. Then I cleaned everything there, there were no more problems until the sale.

what did you expect. this is just the beginning.

+5

Change the ignition relay and everything will be fine, the car as a whole should be normal, maybe a little rotten, I had a 99 2 years ago, took it for 2 years, skated what I put all the money into it, it brought back.

Overall, the car is not bad: there is no rot anywhere, and here and there spiders on the body (the car was treated after purchase). I made a diagnosis: it is necessary to change the ball joints (by the way, it is true that all the upper classic ones are installed.), steering rods, rear rods. In some places around the cabin there are not enough screws and there is no rear shelf. And overall the condition is normal. I'll put my hands on it and make it a JUP. Now everyone has suspended repair work - it’s cold.

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Instrument cluster diagram, instrument cluster troubleshooting

Note Regardless of the modification of the instrument cluster (until 2009), the algorithm for troubleshooting and troubleshooting is approximately the same. The electronic instrument cluster (after 2009) cannot be repaired , with the exception of replacing indicator lamps and instrument lighting. The components of the instrument cluster are not supplied as spare parts, therefore, in the event of failure of one of the instruments, the combination must be replaced as an assembly.

All vehicle control devices are combined into an instrument cluster. It includes: a speedometer with a trip meter, a coolant temperature indicator, a fuel level indicator, a tachometer, and warning lights.

Since 2009, Lada Niva 4×4 cars have been equipped with an electronic instrument cluster borrowed from the Samara-2 family. It includes an electronic speedometer and tachometer, a liquid crystal indicator of the total and daily mileage counter (odometer), a liquid crystal display of the clock and ambient temperature, a coolant temperature indicator, a fuel level indicator, twelve signaling devices and six backlight lamps. The operation of the devices is controlled by an electronic module, which receives signals from sensors. Temperature and fuel level indicators are of electromagnetic type. The tachometer and speedometer needles are driven by stepper electric motors.

Connection diagram of the instrument panel wiring harness (after 2009)

Connection diagram of the instrument cluster produced since 1996. (inside view)

1 – tachometer; 2 – voltage stabilizer; 3 – instrument cluster lighting lamp; 4 – coolant temperature indicator; 5 – fuel level indicator; 6 – warning lamp of the engine management system; 7 – indicator lamp for heated rear window; 8 – fog light indicator lamp; 9 – control lamp for high beam headlights; 10 – indicator lamp for external lighting; 11 – indicator lamp for direction indicators;

12 – battery charge indicator lamp; 13 – brake fluid level warning lamp; 14 – oil pressure warning lamp; 15 – differential lock warning lamp; 16 – fuel reserve warning lamp; 17 – seat belt warning lamp; 18 – parking brake warning lamp; D1, D2 – IN4002 diodes; R1 – resistor 470 Ohm, 0.25 W; R2 – resistor 51 Ohm, 5 W.

The coolant temperature gauge works in conjunction with a sensor screwed into the cylinder head. The sensor contains a thermistor (a resistor that changes its resistance depending on temperature).

Data for checking the coolant temperature gauge sensor

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Maintenance Tips

The factory instructions require troubleshooting the ignition system in the following sequence:

  1. From the ignition switch (terminal 15), connect the wire to the coil (terminal +B) to a test lamp;
  2. Connect its negative terminal to ground;
  3. Turn on the ignition - turn the key in the lock to position “II”;
  4. If the control lamp lights up, then the circuit is working. If not, look for damage to the wire;
  5. With the ignition on, pull out the central wire from the coil from the distributor;
  6. Bring its metal tip to the cylinder block so that a gap of 3-4 mm forms between them;
  7. Turn on the starter for a few seconds;
  8. If the spark jumps, the coil is working.

Tip: you can quickly check the switch in one way - take it from a working car. If the car starts with the new switch, then you need to buy a new one.

All the dimensions and instrument lighting disappeared at once.

All the dimensions and instrument lighting disappeared at once.

Post by DimZar » 06 Jun 2016, 19:22

Re: All the dimensions and instrument lighting disappeared at once.

Post by Warlock » 06 Jun 2016, 19:42

The second, seventh and eighth in the upper block, twist. Second - Steering column switch, windshield wipers, hazard warning lights, breaker relay (in turn signal mode), reverse light, instrument cluster (coolant temperature gauge, fuel level gauge, tachometer, warning lamps: turn indicators, differential lock, parking brakes, emergency condition of the working brake system, insufficient oil pressure, fuel reserve, battery charge)

Seventh - Side light lamps in the left front and left rear lights, license plate lights, side light indicator lamp

Eighth - Side light lamps in the right front and right rear lamps, backlight lamps for the instrument cluster, cigarette lighter, switches, heating and ventilation control unit

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Additional relay and fuse box

It is located behind the glove compartment at the feet of the front passenger. To access, unfortunately, you will have to remove the glove box.

p, blockquote 42,0,0,1,0 —>

p, blockquote 43,0,0,0,0 —>

The fuses for the electric fans of the cooling system and the engine control relay (injection system) are located here.

p, blockquote 44,0,0,0,0 —>

Scheme

p, blockquote 45,0,0,0,0 —>

p, blockquote 46,0,0,0,0 —>

Purpose

p, blockquote 47,0,0,0,0 —>

    Additional relay (turns on the right electric fan through an additional resistor at low rotation speed);
  1. Fuse (50A) protecting the power circuits of the additional relay and the right electric fan relay;
  2. Fuel pump (fuel pump) fuse (15A), protecting the power circuits of the electric fuel pump relay;
  3. Fuse (15A) protecting the constant power supply circuit of the controller;
  4. Right electric fan relay;
  5. Left electric fan relay;
  6. Electric fuel pump relay;
  7. Main relay;
  8. Fuse (50A) protecting the left electric fan circuits;
  9. Fuse (15A) protecting power circuits switched on by the main relay;
  10. Controller

VAZ 2131 panel instruments do not work

Valentin Antonyuk Guys, the new Niva, yesterday we were driving home from the showroom and halfway down the road the instrument panel went out. what could it be? Well, or at least tell me the color of the wire and how the control circuit is connected. I like it Dec 24, 2013 at 8:25 am|Edit|This is spam|Reply

Maxim Shilov How scary it is to live in this world, from the cabin and the panel is already going out. look at the fuses. Like Dec 24, 2013 at 8:43 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

Vladimir Egorushin Have you checked the brightness control? If it is all the way to the right, then the panel goes out I like Dec 24, 2013 at 8:44 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

Oleg Strizhov▼ Vladimir, vice versa to the left Like Dec 24, 2013 at 01:02 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Vladimir Egorushin So yes, but when you go all the way to the right everything goes out. And a millimeter back it shines in full force. Like Dec 24, 2013 at 02:28 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Ivan Okishev▼ I changed this regulator twice, it burns out like a dog, but then the buttons don’t light up I like Dec 24, 2013 at 02:42 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Online Anton Voskresensky I agree to pay 10 thousand bucks for this car. BUT, provided that everything works, it’s a mystery to me why something suddenly died from inside the car, and that’s not all, it will leak from all the cracks in the coming frosts. Like Dec 24, 2013 at 03:49 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Nikita Muravyov does the backlight go out or do all the arrows fall off? Are the turn signals still working? Like Dec 24, 2013 at 4:48 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Oleg Strizhov▼ Vladimir, I don’t have one. Like Dec 24, 2013 at 5:00 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Adress Unknown didn't light up, it's already good I like it Dec 24, 2013 at 05:34 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Vladimir Egorushin Well, that means this is my factory know-how) I like it Dec 24, 2013 at 05:42 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Valentin Antonyuk Did everything, did everything. The regulator is broken. As I understand it, this is a disease of these machines. Like Dec 24, 2013 at 7:50 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Arseniy Larin▼ Valentin, this is not a disease of “these” machines, you are just a little unlucky, you will begin to understand the diseases of “these” machines later))) I like Dec 24, 2013 at 08:38 pm|Edit|Delete|Reply

Valentin Antonyuk Arseniy▼, I read it on the drive, so I realized that a lot of people have this kind of nonsense I like it Dec 25, 2013 at 7:33 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

Alexander Bulygin▼ Valentin, buy heat-resistant sealant, clamps and antifreeze. This is so for starters) I like Dec 25, 2013 at 7:33 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

Evgeniy Yuminov Valentin, it’s not the disease of these machines, but whoever comes across it, the fifth bucket my regulator has never died)) I like Jan 2, 2014 at 1:56 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

Evgeniy Yuminov Fuck, I already had 5 buckets)) not a single new one))) I like Jan 2, 2014 at 1:57 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

Alexander Bulygin▼ Evgeny, they were just repaired before you;) I like Jan 3, 2014 at 10:17 am|Edit|Delete|Reply

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jou Feb 27, 2010 11:03 pm

Dashboard problems

Yandex.Direct

Instrument lighting

lemon 27 Feb 2010, 23:30

Instrument lighting

AxeT Feb 27, 2010, 11:42 pm

Instrument lighting

jou 28 Feb 2010, 17:03

/quote] This is 2121. What about the dimensions? Do they work?[/quote]

everything works except the instrument lighting

Instrument lighting

AxeT 28 Feb 2010, 18:42

Instrument lighting

jou 28 Feb 2010, 20:07

Instrument lighting

AxeT 28 Feb 2010, 20:08

Instrument lighting

lemon 28 Feb 2010, 20:09

Instrument lighting

jou 01 Mar 2010, 17:38

Correction: the left license plate light is not yet on. According to the Kama Sutra, she is also on this fuse.

But everything else is on fire.

Instrument lighting

jou 01 Mar 2010, 17:46

I found 2 black wires there, moved them and they seemed to hold.

Instrument lighting

lemon March 01, 2010, 23:35

Instrument lighting

spoon Mar 02, 2010, 08:26

Instrument lighting

jou Mar 02, 2010 10:08 am

The last time I tinkered with the cigarette lighter, I wanted to change it, but it works like a bastard, and the light on it is on. I wanted to attach an FM modulator to it.

I haven’t looked at the regulator, but where is it? where to look for it?? Write and I’ll climb in and have a look. I know how to find the license plate illumination lamp, I’ll check it, but where to look for the instrument illumination lamp.

Instrument lighting

ale Mar 02, 2010, 11:17

Fuel and temperature gauges do not work

Fuel and temperature gauges do not work

Post by landniver » Apr 02, 2011, 05:41 pm

Hello friends, maybe I’m going wrong, but help me solve the problem: In January there was already such a situation, both arrows of the fuel and temperature indicators fell, after which everything fell into place. After leaving for almost 3 months, it returned. Again the arrows fell, then after 10 minutes they returned to their readings. I got home, turned it off, started it, again it was dead. I took off the casing, took out the tidy, there was no burning at the back, the traces were intact, taking out both connectors, I discovered that an orange wire was soldered to the + of the tacheometer, it was also twisted with the orange wire on the red (I don’t remember exactly) block. There is no tester at hand, what to look for and how to check.

I can’t even smoke, or + or - is missing.

The temperature or fuel level indicator does not work. The device is damaged ———— Replace the device or instrument cluster The instrument sensor is faulty ———— Replace the sensor The wires are damaged or their tips are oxidized———— Check the wires, restore connections There is no contact between the printed circuit boards of the instrument cluster— ——— Remove the protective cover of the tachometer electrical circuit, tighten the screw securing the board, put on the cover and secure it to the board, tightening the screws until they stop

protective cover for the tachometer electrical circuit, what is it and what does it look like?

on the friendly forum Niva4x4 they don’t want to help, sending it to a tediously written fact and are rude, which I really don’t like.

Source

Lights on the instrument panel.

Lights on the instrument panel.

Post by Weter » June 13, 2011, 00:43

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Mr.Bell Su » Jun 13, 2011, 07:57

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Weter » June 13, 2011, 01:24 pm

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by andrewsv » Jun 13, 2011 6:33 pm

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Portada » Jun 13, 2011, 11:33 pm

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Weter » June 14, 2011, 01:16

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by sobaka » June 14, 2011, 08:53

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Mr.Bell Su » Jun 14, 2011, 09:01

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Weter » June 14, 2011, 4:19 pm

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Portada » June 15, 2011, 00:44

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by rv3dll » June 16, 2011, 07:47

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Mr.Bell Su » June 16, 2011, 01:02 pm

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by andrewsv » Jun 16, 2011 02:10 pm

Re: All instruments on the panel have failed except the speedometer

Post by Mr.Bell Su » June 16, 2011, 4:24 pm

Video of current leakage and poor charging at the same time:

Since the indicator on the instrument panel is a link in the generator excitation circuit, the absence of flashing when the ignition is turned on leads to loss of its functionality. Whether the lamp is to blame or the reason lies elsewhere (voltage regulator relay, lock contact group), can be understood by disconnecting terminal 61 from the generator with the ignition on, followed by shorting the wire from the instrument panel to the car body. If it catches fire, check the serviceability of the rotor winding, brushes and “chocolate”. If the circumstances are otherwise, examine the performance of fuse No. 2 (8A) and the light bulb by replacing the ones mentioned with known good ones.

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