Steering device VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, Lada Ten

The vehicle control system is responsible for the direction of its movement, as well as, to a large extent, for the safety of the driver and passengers. One of the most important elements of this system is the steering rack. Its role is to transfer force from the steering wheel to the rods, which, in turn, force the steered wheels to turn in one direction or another.

With the exception of the latest versions in VAZ-2110 cars, the steering rack is not equipped with a power amplifier, but this does not mean that its mechanical design will last forever. Like any other moving mechanism, it sometimes fails. We will talk about what the VAZ-2110 steering rack is and what problems happen with it in this article. In addition, we will figure out how to repair or replace it yourself.

Design and role of the steering rack in the control system

The VAZ-2110 steering rack is a steel form, one side of which has teeth that mesh with the teeth of the drive gear. The latter is driven by the steering wheel through the shaft and its cardan. In VAZ-2110 cars, the steering rack is located in a column, which is mounted on the partition between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.

Its upper part has a mount for two rods, which are connected to the shock absorber struts through the tips and their fingers.

When you turn the steering wheel, its shaft rotates and transmits force through the cardan to the drive gear. As it rotates, it moves the rack along with the rods in the desired direction. This is how the car is controlled in such a simple way.

Naturally, to ensure normal operation of the rack, the design of the steering mechanism includes a number of other parts:

  • column housing (case);
  • protective casing (corrugation) with clamps;
  • two drive gear bearings (ball and needle);
  • support sleeve (fluoroplastic);
  • emphasis;
  • thrust nut;
  • anthers, plugs, washers, etc.

The process of removing the rack

You can begin repairs only after removing this mechanism.

Dismantling can be done either by removing the rack with or without rods.

For the first option, you will need to press out the pins of the outer rod ends.

The second method will require disconnecting the inner tips.

  • Unscrew the elastic coupling bolt in the passenger compartment using a 13-mm open-end wrench;
  • take a 13 key and in the engine compartment on both sides loosen the nuts securing the steering rack brackets;
  • bending the edges of a special plate that prevents the bolts from unwinding themselves, we unscrew the latter from the body;
  • To remove the steering rack without any problems, wedge the intermediate shaft mount;
  • remove the splined end of the gear from the hole by moving the steering rack forward and remove the latter;
  • The steering gear housing should be clamped in a vice with soft jaws, something like this;
  • remove the spacer ring and support from the right side of the steering rack housing;
  • we find clamps on the protective cover and safely cut them off, since they are disposable;
  • the protective cover should be removed from the support;
  • on the left side you need to remove the support and the protective cap;
  • The rack stop nut will require a special tool in the form of a 17 octagonal head to unscrew.

How to eliminate backlash?

If you identify signs of a malfunction, do not despair; perhaps everything will cost you with minor repairs, especially since the rack itself very rarely fails. First, let's figure out whether there is play in the steering wheel and how to tighten the steering rack on a VAZ-2110 to get rid of it. First of all, open the hood and find the location of the column. We dismantle the engine elements that interfere with free access to it (air filter, air duct). Holding the steering rods with both hands, try to move the rack left and right. If play is detected, we get rid of it by adjusting the thrust nut.

conclusions

Dismantling the rack for adjustment will be necessary only in case of critical wear of the bushings, anthers, rack, gear, and in cases where the adjustment did not lead to the desired result. Good luck to everyone, obedient steering wheel and smooth roads!

Video about adjusting the rack on a VAZ-2110 from under the hood

  • How to check the steering wheels of a VAZ 2110
  • How to adjust the steering column
  • How to choose a VAZ 2110

Removing the steering column

If after adjustment the problem with the rack does not disappear, you will have to disassemble and repair it. But to do this it needs to be removed. There are two methods of dismantling: with and without tie rods. The latter method is preferable as it requires much less time. Before removing the steering rack on a VAZ-2110, the front part of the car needs to be jacked up on both sides. This is necessary in order to unload the traction.

In the cabin, in the area of ​​the pedal block, you need to unscrew the steering shaft cardan bolt. After this, we go to the engine compartment and unscrew the 2 bolts securing the rods, having previously bent the locking plate. Then you need to unscrew the 4 bolts securing the steering column to the car body. When this is done, remove the column and remove it through the opening of the left wheel arch.

Selection of repair kit

Before starting repair and restoration work, you should decide on the choice of repair kit.

Minimum set. This set includes the necessary list of fastening and sealing elements: washers, bearings, nuts and fluoroplastic bushings.

The basic set has bearings and shafts in addition to the minimum set, but its cost can be twice as high as the first option.

Please note that the steering rack can be either old or new. The old racks are designed for the VAZ 2108, while the new ones are designed for the “tenth” model. The new version is also more convenient to repair. If there is a need to repair the steering rack, which involves replacing the bushing, then there is no need to disassemble the entire mechanism. Remove the corrugation, unscrew the central nut and disassemble the rack into two component parts. One part will contain the mechanism, and the other part will be the one where the bushing is located.

What is a do-it-yourself VAZ-2110 steering rack repair?

Take care of your tools in advance. Here you will need two special keys: a 17 octagon and a 24 octagon, as well as bearing pullers. It is worth noting that repairing the VAZ-2110 steering rack involves replacing parts that are most susceptible to wear. These are bearings and a drive gear boot, a stop, retaining rings, a support sleeve, and seals. All these elements can be purchased as a set. There are three types of repair kits on sale:

  • minimal, including a support sleeve, boot, retaining rings and seals;
  • standard, which in addition to the listed parts includes bearings;
  • complete, which also includes a new rack.

It is recommended to buy a repair kit only after you remove the column, write down its markings (different versions of the VAZ-2110 may have different configurations) and disassemble it, identifying the spare parts that need to be replaced.

Cotton steering wheel and how to deal with it

The design of front-wheel drive VAZ cars corresponds both to its price niche and partly to its purpose. An average car for economical travel over average distances at average speed. Know-how of the 80s of the Soviet automobile industry, the MacPherson suspension coupled with rack and pinion looked like something perfect in the early 80s. Although, in fact, the long-travel steering rack 2108 and the classic MacPherson of the 1948 model are not the most progressive solution even for a cheap car.

Compared to classic VAZ models, rear-wheel drive, with a classic steering mechanism and double-wishbone front suspension, the 2110 has more sluggish and imprecise handling. In a word, a wadded steering wheel. It won’t take long to figure out why this happened. Elementary geometry - MacPherson does not hold the car well in turns and during acceleration and braking, and the steering had a long stroke and an unsuccessful upper rack location. Hence the looseness of the steering wheel. It is technically inherent and cannot be cured by any settings or adjustments.

Video tutorial on repairing a VAZ steering rack

However, since the 2000s, a slightly improved design of the power steering rack has been used. There wasn’t enough for everyone at once, because first of all, cars with hydraulic booster were exported. Later, when Europe was full of Zhiguli cars, cars with power steering began to appear more often. But the hydraulic booster did not save the situation. And that's why.

Disassembling the steering column

We begin disassembling the control unit by removing the protective casing by cutting the plastic clamps. After this, use a special key of 17 to unscrew the thrust nut, take out the retaining ring, the spring and knock out the rack stop. Next, remove the boot and drive gear seal, remove the lock washer, and then use a 24mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the ball bearing. We remove the gear. Now that there is nothing holding the rail in the case, we remove it through the right side of the case. We remove the needle bearing of the drive gear from its seat. To do this you will need a special puller. Check the drive gear bearings for play. If present, the bearings will have to be replaced.

The support sleeve must also be replaced. It has a cylindrical shape and is located inside the steering housing. The bushing is removed by prying it off with a screwdriver.

Assembly procedure

We begin repairing the VAZ-2110 steering rack by installing the needle bearing of the drive gear. The seat is first generously lubricated with a special lubricant such as “Fiol-1”. After this, we press a new ball bearing onto the drive gear shaft. Next, install the support sleeve from the repair kit inside the control unit housing. Now we fill the inner cavity of the column with lubricant and insert the steering rack into it.

We mount the drive gear and secure it with a locking ring and nut. We put a new boot on its shaft.


We install the stop with the seal in place, secure it with a stopper and a thrust nut. That's basically it. Now you need to adjust the control unit and put the protective cover on it.

Replacing the steering rack of a VAZ-2110

It is rare, but it happens that replacing consumables is not enough. The steering rack, although made of steel, is still subject to wear. Most often, the reason for this is the negligence of car owners who do not monitor the condition of the steering mechanism. In addition, the rack may also be damaged as a result of a traffic accident. But there is no need to despair here either. The VAZ-2110 steering rack is replaced according to the scheme described above. The only thing you need is to purchase a complete repair kit, which costs on average about 1,500 rubles.

Steering wheel

The steering control of the VAZ-2109 car is built according to the following scheme:

  • steering wheel;
  • column;
  • cardan or intermediate shaft (cardan);
  • rail;
  • rods and tips.

Let's look at the meaning of each element of the chain.

Steering wheel

The steering wheel - the steering wheel, the steering wheel, the steering wheel - is an important part of the control system - is in the hands of the driver. The device transmits a person’s muscular force to the wheels of a car to set them in one direction or another.

The steering wheel is the visible part of the system. The remaining components are hidden in the steering column and under the hood.


VAZ steering wheel

The steering wheel of the VAZ 2108 is a simple 2-spoke design, covered in leather. You can find the “native” steering wheel using catalog number 21083-3402012. In the fifteenth version of the Zhiguli, the steering wheel became 3-spoke, but it cannot be called modern and multifunctional.

Cardan or intermediate shaft

Cardan joint - universal joint - a movable joint between the steering rack and column. The unit ensures easy rotation of the drive wheels.

The element consists of two sliding U-shaped forks connected by a cross. At the joints there are miniature needle bearings, which are prone to souring if water gets on them.

The steering of the VAZ-2110 car has two cardan shafts. In designs with one element (the Soviet Volga), the transmission of rotation to the wheels occurs intermittently, in pulses. Cars 2108-2115 have two hinges: the upper one is located in the driver’s feet, the lower one is located near the steering rack under the bottom.

Crosspieces are considered maintenance-free. This is due to the fact that the elements operate in gentle conditions - they are not influenced by external factors. The service life of the intermediate shaft under favorable conditions is up to 500 thousand km.

But the entire mechanism bears the same loads as the transmission when driving on uneven roads. In fact, the cardan may succumb to corrosion (stop bending) or wear out (play will appear). To repair parts, buy a set of crosspieces and bearings of a suitable size.

Rail

There are no secondary components in the system. But the rack in the steering device of the VAZ-2109 car plays a special role. The part is responsible for the maneuverability of the vehicle, turning the wheels of the car in the desired direction at the command of the driver. The rack cannot be called the main element of the mechanism, but the comfort and safety of travel depends on it.

The assembly looks like this: a gear rack is placed in the crankcase. Protection from dust and dirt is in the form of anthers - rubber accordions, like on CV joints. There are two threaded holes on the bar - these are sockets for securing the end rods. There is a drive gear, support rings for smooth sliding and a stop mechanism that regulates the amount of clearance of the rack-pinion pair.


Rack VAZ

This is a loaded unit with high efficiency. Wear of the mechanism affects the controllability of the vehicle. The steering wheel turns hard, there is play, and there is a knocking sound coming from underneath when the car maneuvers.

However, the steering rack is a simple mechanism that can be easily repaired in a garage.

Traction

They transmit force from the steering mechanism to the wheels. Technically, the rod is made like a metal bar. One side of the bar is attached directly to the steering rack through a hinge. Here, special mounting sockets are provided for the rods. On the other side there is a regular thread for attaching tie rod ends.

Fingers (tips)

The steering system in a car is rigidly fixed, while the wheels are movable. The rods, in order to transmit the driving force to the wheels, are connected to the steering knuckle lever through the steering tips (fingers) - the last link in a long steering-wheel chain.

The tie rod end is an extremely simple, and therefore reliable, hinge. It consists of a housing with an axle shaft and a threaded ball pin. And also an insert for fixing the finger. The device body is closed with a lid. The cover is fixed to the finger with a ring, the latter is attached to the body with a spring.

The Teflon liner holds your finger tightly. Therefore, steering tips last a long time. But when the liner wears out, play appears. The protection (anthers) can also be broken.

A problem with the tips is indicated by kickback in the steering wheel on any bump and a dull sound when turning. The phenomenon is prevented by timely maintenance and repair of the steering control of the VAZ-2110 car. Driving with a faulty mechanism is not only uncomfortable, but also dangerous.

Shock absorber struts

In cars without springs (which is practically all modern vehicles), shock absorbers or shock absorber struts are installed. These are mechanisms of different design and functionality that inexperienced drivers confuse:

  • A shock absorber is an oil pump that dampens vibrations that occur when the car is moving. The term "telescopic strut" refers to a shock absorber.
  • The shock absorber strut, in addition to softening the ride of the car, sets the geometry of the suspension. Another function is to create multiple support points.

The design of the unit is complex. The key components work in pairs - the shock absorber and springs themselves. The latter are compressed when the car hits obstacles and, due to elasticity, are released. The springs then continue to oscillate up and down until they reach equilibrium.


Shock absorber struts VAZ

Vibrations are transmitted to the car body. But here a shock absorber is connected - a cylinder, inside of which a piston moves in a gas or oil environment. The strut shock absorber dampens unnecessary vibrations of the springs. If the body begins to sway strongly or the car begins to roll, you need to check the condition of the shock absorber struts.

What racks and rods were installed on 2108-2115

Modernization of Tolyatti VAZs has always been slow. Starting in 1984, there were no changes in the suspension, engines, or steering for 20 years.

The steering rack of the VAZ-2108 was under catalog number 2108-3400009-20, passed from model to model until the release of the “ten”. The article number of the VAZ-2110 part, called “old-style slats”, is 2110-3400009-20.

What is the difference between racks and rods of different models?

The factory equipped V8s with straight-toothed racks developed in the 70s with a full steering rotation of 3.7 turns.

Subsequent modifications of the car were equipped with such elements. And initially the tenth model. But then the rack was improved: it, like the drive gear, became helical. The manufacturer strengthened the VAZ-2110 steering gear housing and used a “figure-of-eight” gear-rack pair. The latter received the name “rasp” from auto mechanics. The full stroke of the new-style helical rack became 4.2 turns of the steering wheel. The catalog number has changed - 2110-3401068.

The Lada Kalina came off the assembly line with a shortened helical rack with a full steering rotation of 3.1 turns. The part number is 11183-3401068-00 (11183-3401068-01).

Are racks and rods of different models interchangeable?

The topic of interchangeability is lively discussed on automotive forums. The answer is yes, but with some nuances:


Are racks and rods of different models interchangeable?

On the VAZ 2108-2115 model from 1984 to the present day, you can install steering racks:

  • manufacturer code – TRIALLI, article – CR 108;
  • from AVTOVAZ the part goes under catalog number 2108-099,2113-2115. 2108-3400009-20.

Steering rods: manufacturer VIS ZAO, article number 21080-3414060-00.

Dimensions: length, width, height of rods – 370x50x50 mm.

Useful tips

Finally, here are some useful tips that will extend the life of the steering rack and other elements included in the control unit:

  1. At least once a quarter, check the condition of the steering at a service station or yourself.
  2. Pay attention to the condition of the steering column protective cover.
  3. Try to limit driving on uneven surfaces, especially at high speeds.
  4. Do not test the strength of the steering rack and the entire mechanism by moving away with the steering wheel turned all the way to the side.
  5. If play or other signs of steering rack malfunction are detected, repair or replace it.

The steering mechanism of dozens has undergone several ongoing improvements throughout the entire production period of the car, but in general, the steering system is not far removed in design from the VAZ 2108-09 design. Perhaps that is why almost everyone who operates a ten repairs and adjusts the steering rack with their own hands. There is nothing complicated about this and now we will see it.

Diagnosing the malfunction

Like any other mechanism, the steering rack fails sooner or later.

A similar mechanism is present in any car, both equipped with electric and hydraulic booster and without it.

Muffled sounds and impacts can be felt when driving over uneven surfaces, and can also be transmitted to the steering wheel.

The malfunction manifests itself in a similar way when the car is stationary and the steering wheel is turned.

When turning the steering wheel, a significantly increased force may still be observed.

These main symptoms indicate that the steering rack needs to be repaired, no matter what brand of car they appeared on: VAZ 2110 or another model.

To determine the state of this node, we do the following.

The design of the steering rack on the VAZ-2110

First, let's decide what we will regulate. The design of the rack is extremely simple. The hydraulic booster is not provided, so even with dismantling (which is not at all necessary), all the work will take an hour or an hour and a half.

Scheme and design.

The steering mechanism of the VAZ-2110 is a rack and pinion gearbox that converts the rotation of the steering shaft 27 into the movement of the rack 16 itself. Steering rods 5 and 7 are attached to the rack with bolts 6, which turn the racks with the steering knuckle. The contact point between the drive gear 21 and the rack 16 is most subject to load and, accordingly, wear .

When adjustment is necessary

between these parts , which leads to the appearance of symptoms indicating the need for adjustment:

  • knocking in the steering rack when driving over bumps;
  • increased steering wheel play;
  • the steering wheel is too tight, the wheels do not align after turning;
  • the rack “bites” periodically, this indicates critical wear of the rack or drive gear 21.

Clearances and adjustment

In these cases, it makes sense to try to adjust the gap between the rack and pinion in order to delay a major overhaul of the entire mechanism. And we will adjust the gap by pressing the adjusting nut 33 through the spring 32 and the rack stop 31, the rack to the gear.

5.1. Design Features

Steering mechanism assembly with drive

1
– tie rod end;
2
– ball joint of the tip;
3
– rotary lever;
4
– adjusting rod;
5
and
7
– inner tie rod ends;
6
– bolts securing the steering rods to the rack;
8
– steering gear mounting bracket;
9
– steering gear support;
10
– protective cover;
11
– locking plate;
12
– connecting plate;
13
– rubber-metal hinge;
14
– damping rings;
15
– rack support sleeve;
16
– rack;
17
– steering gear housing;
18
– coupling bolt;
19
– elastic coupling flange;
20
– roller bearing;
21
– drive gear;
22
– ball bearing;
23
– retaining ring;
24
– protective washer;
25
– sealing ring;
26
– bearing nut;
27
– intermediate steering shaft;
28
– boot;
29
– protective cap;
30
– sealing ring of the stop;
31
– rack stop;
32
– spring;
33
– stop nut;
34
– retaining ring of the stop nut;
35
– plug;
36
– liner spring;
37
– ball pin insert;
38
– ball pin;
39
– protective cap;
A, B
– marks on the boot and crankcase;
C, D
– surfaces on the ball joint and swing arm

Steering column

1
– intermediate steering shaft;
2
– coupling;
3
– steering shaft mounting bracket;
4
– cardan joint;
5
– spacer sleeve;
6
– bushing of the support plate;
7
– universal joint crosspiece;
8
– needle bearing of the crosspiece;
9
– support plate;
10
– pipe of the steering shaft bracket;
11
– fixing plate;
12
– welded body bracket;
13
– steering shaft bearing;
14
– upper part of the facing casing;
15
– upper steering shaft;
16
– contact plate holder;
17
– steering wheel fastening nut;
18
– steering wheel;
19
– lower part of the facing casing;
20
– steering column position adjustment lever;
21
– retaining ring;
22
– tension spring;
23
– lever adjusting sleeve;
24
– coupling bolt;
25
– spacer sleeve

Steering parts

1
– inner tie rod ends;
2
– steering gear mounting bracket;
3
– steering gear support;
4
– spacer ring;
5
– steering mechanism;
6
– sealing gasket;
7
– thrust plate of the seal;
8
– seal;
9
– lower flange of the elastic coupling;
10
– intermediate steering shaft;
11
– coupling bolt;
12
– spacer sleeve;
13
– facing casing (upper part);
14
– upper steering shaft;
15
– steering wheel;
16
– signal switch cover;
17
– adjusting sleeve;
18
– steering column position adjustment lever;
19
– retaining ring;
20
– facing casing (lower part);
21
– steering shaft mounting bracket;
22
– steering shaft bearing;
23
– adjusting rod;
24
– outer tie rod end;
25
– spring ring;
26
– protective cover;
27
– sealing ring

The steering is injury-proof, with a height-adjustable (tilt-angle) steering column and a rack-and-pinion steering mechanism.

We tighten the rail ourselves

We will carry out the work from under the car, so it is advisable to use an inspection hole or overpass. You can tighten the nut from under the hood, but this is extremely inconvenient and will take more time, we checked.

We install the car and secure it with the handbrake; just in case, we put wheel chocks under the rear wheels. Next we do this:

    Remove the engine protection.

We extend the carrier so that it can be seen better.

This is the same nut.

This is what the plastic plug looks like.

You will have to try a little to get the wrench into the nut.

Checking the steering play

To perform a play test, place the front wheels of your vehicle in a straight-ahead (straight-ahead) position. Take a long-blade slotted screwdriver and tape it to the dashboard with the blade facing the steering wheel. Now carefully turn the steering wheel in one direction and the other until the wheels begin to turn. When the wheels begin to turn, use chalk or thread to mark the limits of its free play on the steering wheel rim. Measure the distance between the marks and determine the free play of the steering wheel, which should not exceed 15 mm. If the free play of the steering wheel exceeds 15 mm, you need to check the condition of the steering rack, tie rods and ends, front wheel hub bearings and strut swing arms. After this, sharply jerk the steering wheel from side to side at a small angle. Make sure there is no knocking noise in the steering column universal joints or steering gear. If necessary, tighten loose fasteners or replace faulty parts with new ones.

Replacement and repair of main parts

When a malfunction is detected, you need to collect all the necessary parts and tools for the VAZ 2110. You will definitely need sets of screwdrivers and wrenches. It is also necessary to check the availability of socket heads, pliers, a metal brush and a special puller that is used to service the device. If it is not there, then a small crowbar or hammer will do as an alternative.

How to change tips and rods

Replacing tips and rods is as follows:

  1. The first step is to jack up the VAZ 2110 and remove the front wheel;
  2. The area where the rack tip attaches to the steering knuckle must be thoroughly cleaned, and then the nut must be treated with WD-40;
  3. Next, you need to remove the cotter pin securing the connection; for this you will need pliers;


Remove the wire fixing nut by pulling one end with pliers

  • After this, you need to remove the finger using a special puller, after unscrewing the nut;
  • Once the pin is removed, the tips can be unscrewed and removed. They must be checked for defects and replaced if necessary;


    Removing the finger

  • Having removed the tips, you should bend the plate at the bolt to get to the rod;
  • The next step is to unscrew the rod bolt;
  • Done, now the rod and its ends can be dismantled. Replacement is carried out in reverse order. After installing new parts, you need to check the steering wheel without completely assembling the entire steering mechanism. If everything works, the steering wheel does not move tightly and does not wobble, then assembly can be carried out.
  • Replacing the steering wheel

    It will be easier to dismantle the steering wheel than the ends and rods. It is worth saying that the steering wheel is rarely changed; usually a more stylish and convenient option is installed instead. It is necessary to check before purchasing whether the new part fits the steering mechanism.

    The replacement takes place as follows:

    The cover must be carefully pryed off with a screwdriver and removed;


Carefully pry off the trim using a flathead screwdriver

  • Next, the pad on the steering wheel must be moved to the side;
  • Three fasteners must be removed from the signal activation panel;
  • The central bolt on the steering wheel is unscrewed using a “24” socket;


    The steering wheel can now be completely removed

  • Done, after this you can completely remove the steering wheel and install a new steering wheel.
  • Checking the condition of the tie rod ends

    You will need an assistant to perform this test. Take 2 jacks and lift the front of the car. Secure the machine to support stands. If you have a lift at your disposal, use it. Ask an assistant to grab the wheel and jerk it sharply in a horizontal plane, i.e. pull the rear part of the wheel toward you and the front part away from you. During this, you place your hand on the body of the ball joint of the steering tip and the swing arm and evaluate their mutual movement relative to each other. If you feel the ball joint move freely, replace the tie rod end immediately. In addition, change the steering tip if, during the inspection, you notice that the ball joint boot is torn.

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