How to replace a light bulb in the trunk of a Lada Kalina

Replacing the glove compartment light bulb:

First, open the glove compartment on the left side, there we see a small lamp, you need to remove it, to do this, insert a screwdriver into the groove and pull it out, as shown in the picture.

We insert the screwdriver until the lid opens and take it out; you can see everything in the picture.

In order to get to the light bulb, you need to remove the white base, pressing on the plastic latch, and pull the base up.

That's all, you can take out the old light bulb and put in a new one, you can put in a white LED light bulb. Let's put everything back together in reverse order.

Replacing the trunk light bulb on a Lada Kalina:

The replacement is done approximately the same as in the glove compartment, there is nothing complicated, with certain skills it can be done in five minutes.

Since the design of the trunk and glove compartment lighting lamps is the same, the principle of replacing them will be identical. For this procedure you will need a flat blade screwdriver. This work will not take even 10 minutes. Let's look at everything in order:

Glove box

We open the glove box and on the left side we see this small lamp that needs to be removed. To do this, insert a flat-head screwdriver into the groove on the right side of the cover, as shown below:

And we insert the screwdriver until the lid opens, after which we remove it from there. The result of this action is shown in the picture below:

And to get to the light bulb, you need to remove the upper white base; to do this, press on the plastic latch of the lamp cover (in the picture above this latch is clearly visible in the left corner), and pull up the base:

Now you can easily remove the light bulb and install a new one. Then we put everything in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, you can eliminate some extraneous sounds that arise in the glove compartment area from this particular plastic part. I made everything as simple as possible, glued small pieces of sound insulation along the edges, and inserted halves of matches into the wire plugs.

I think that everything is clear with this, and no one should have any questions. Now let's talk about the trunk.

Trunk

Here everything is done in almost the same order. We open the trunk and on the left side we see the lamp itself, which can be removed in the same way as in the glove box, but in this case there is no need to remove it, since there is access to the lamp itself from the reverse side.

Since access to the lamp is free, replacing it will be even easier than in the glove compartment, simply by spreading the contacts, removing it, and putting the new one back.

All Kalina fans know that Kalina’s standard trunk lighting is, to put it mildly, not very good. It is very difficult to find anything in the trunk at night. A lot has been written on this topic, but maybe I didn’t read carefully and I had one difficulty. How to power diode strips without causing excruciating pain later? The easiest way is to cut into the wiring of the standard lamp "with twists", insulate it with electrical tape and enjoy. Rejected for several reasons: I don’t like twisting, and most importantly, in order to remove the rear shelf supports, everything would need to be untwisted and re-insulated. Method No. 2 - use couplers, rejected in principle for the same reasons and due to the lack of them in stock. We will go our own way. To begin with, I removed the standard lampshade:

In the photo, on the positive terminal, you can see an unknown radio element of unknown purpose. But once it is installed, it means it is needed. (By the way, who knows why?) We will take power directly from the terminals of the standard lamp. To do this, 0.8 mm holes were drilled in the terminals. (I forgot to take a photo, but the location of the holes will become clear from the photo below). Need contacts. The only ones available were:

Didn't like it - very flimsy. Therefore, I took a piece of copper wire and hit it with a hammer several times. I received these blanks:

However, I only photographed one. But we need 2 of them. I processed the resulting blanks with a needle file and made tails to fit into the 0.8 mm hole. I irradiated the contacts. I used a “female” type terminal for measuring workpieces; the contact should be made with a slight interference. The tail on one of the contacts must be bent at an angle of 90.

Solder the contacts to the standard lamp:

We remove the supports of the rear shelf and glue the LED strip on them, having previously soldered the wires for connecting power to the strip (200 mm each):

I inserted 2 wires into each female terminal connected to the standard lamp, to connect the right and left sides. We put the supports in place. We connect the left side immediately:

I decided to run the wire for connecting the right side under the roof lining, for which I removed the door seal 5 and passed the wire through - I measured it “in situ”:

We make a wire with these tips (the mating part is soldered to the diode strip):

We stretch the wire, put the seal in place, connect the terminals and evaluate the result:

The standard lamp has been saved and is in its place; you need to buy an LED one. After soldering, I wrapped all the tips in heat shrink, so we got almost branded connectors. Result: the trunk lighting has improved significantly, but the center is still not illuminated, we need to come up with some kind of reflectors. On the plus side, removing and disassembling the shelf supports takes 1 minute, everything is on connectors.

The standard incandescent lamps installed in the interior lighting on the Kalina do not cause much delight, so many owners of this car seek to replace them with LED or brighter lamps. It is best to replace conventional lamps with LEDs.

Connection

All the necessary contacts for connecting an additional lamp are in the front lamp. To install the wires, it is not at all necessary to remove the roof trim; just bend it slightly from the edge or move it slightly out of the door seal.

Lada Priora front lamp diagram:

far left (red) - “mass”
central (white) - +12V
far right (black) - ground (door switches)

Diagram of the front lamp of Lada Granta (pre-style) and Lada Kalina:

far left (black) - “mass”
central (green) - ground (door switches)
far right (red) - +12V

Diagram of the front lamp with ERA-GLONASS for Lada Granta FL:

11 and 14 - +12V appears after turning on the main relay (turning on the ignition, opening the doors). The power goes out 2-5 minutes after removing the ignition key.
15 - “mass”.
17 - “ground” (door limit switches), which appears for a while when the doors are opened.

The result of such a connection in the video:

Attention!

Wire colors may vary depending on vehicle equipment. Focus on the contact numbers and check the wiring with a multimeter.

What kind of lamps are installed in the interior lamp?

Instead of conventional incandescent lamps, you can install LED lamps with exactly the same bases. In addition to the usual lamp, you can install universal interior lighting in the center; we will talk about it below.

There should be no problems with the c5w lamp; there are a lot of LED analogues, which one you choose depends only on you. If you suddenly find yourself in a professional car lighting store, it is better to buy lamps with 5730 diodes, they will shine brighter than others.

In addition to a regular lamp, you can install universal interior lighting in the central lamp. It comes in different sizes, so you can choose it according to the size of the lampshade. The kit includes 3 different adapters for lamps: c5w, w5w and t4w.

or simple lamps with c5w socket

LED lamps have polarity, so when installing, pay attention to the + contact. If the lamp does not work during installation, simply turn it over.

When choosing t4w LED lamps, pay attention to their size; the width of the lamp may not fit into some lampshades.

How to remove the lampshade on Kalina

Removing the lamp cover will not cause you any problems; it can be easily pryed off with a sharp object. To remove the lampshade itself, you will have to unscrew two self-tapping screws.

Carefully pry up the cover of the central lamp and remove it

To remove the ceiling completely, dismantle the ceiling lining

Unscrew the fastening screws and pull out the lampshade

Carry out the collection in reverse order. As a result, after installation we should have a light like this:

↑ Questions unclear to whom

On this occasion, a friend had two questions for experts from the program “What? Where? When?":

Which AvtoVAZ specialist came up with such a system for turning on the lighting in the Lada Grant's interior?
Which motorist was smart and was able to guess that it was necessary to turn on the lights using the wiper switch?

Whatever you say, our people are very talented and love different jokes. The country must know its heroes. It has certainly been said that Russia cannot be understood with the mind.

And I also feel a little sorry for the owners of foreign cars, since everything in their cars is simple and clear, there is absolutely no imagination.

How to change the polarity on the interior lamp of Lada Kalina

You can do this in two ways:

For 15 years I have been repairing various types of cars, including brands such as VAZ, UAZ, Chevrolet, Mazda, Kia and many others. Everything related to the gearbox, engine or chassis. You can write me your question below in the comments and I will try to answer it in detail.

Now the light in the trunk appears regardless of the operation of the headlights... and the circuit itself automatically turns off after some time of inactivity on security (that is, if the limit switch dies, the battery will not run out from the lamp and tape)

There is a red wire in the lampshade...then we cut it to it...

led under the ceiling to the corner, then under the elastic band inside...

then I cut the red wire and connected a new one to it... and we isolate everything... voila... now you don’t have to stomp into the interior to turn it on... and then to turn it off =))

Door switches on Lada Granta Liftback

Structurally, each limit switch is located in the lower right corner of the doorway. As soon as the door opens, the contacts open and a signal is transmitted to the dashboard and interior lighting unit.

Freezing of the rubber tip contributes to the hardening of the cap and unstable operation of the door activation mechanism. To maximize the service life of rubber tips, they are periodically lubricated with silicone grease to maintain (increase) elasticity. Fixation to the body is carried out using spacer clamps made of plastic. When the base is inserted into the socket, the clamps expand, preventing the base from moving freely.

To connect the sensor to the power circuit, two terminals “+” and “-” are connected to the wires coming from the interior lighting. Be sure to observe polarity! As a rule, “plus” is indicated by red insulation, and “minus” by white with a black stripe.

Additional lighting for the trunk of Kalina

Everyone knows how dim the standard lighting in Kalina’s trunk is; finding anything in it at night is simply unrealistic. Another modification to the trunk is dedicated to the lighting.

Making Kalina's trunk lighting brighter is very simple, and most often an LED strip or a more powerful lamp is used for this. How to secure and connect additional lighting in the trunk is up to you, here are some examples of how this is done on different types of Kalina body:

Trunk light Kalina Hatchback

Trunk lighting Kalina Universal

Trunk light Kalina Sedan

By the way, if you often have to remove the rear shelf, then it is better to secure the strip with LEDs on the plastic sides, next to the standard lamp. And yet, if you make the lighting independent of the dimensions, then using the trunk will be even more convenient.

Similar materials

Backlight connection process

To connect the lighting in the trunk, you will need to stretch long wires from the dashboard under the floor covering through the entire car to the rear partition - there will be technological holes in it. In some cars you will have to remove the rear seat.

The tape is carefully cut to the desired size at an equal distance from both LEDs. Be careful not to damage the diodes and the base of the tape; to do this, use a sharpened knife, or you can take a stationery knife. Then a red wire is soldered to the positive part of the tape, and a black wire to the negative part. Be sure to fill the joints with hot glue or silicone.
Make the length of the positive red wire sufficient for comfortable accessibility of the fuse, that is, in a place convenient for the driver. It is necessary to carefully prime the hole in the body wall and insert a rubber bushing, through which the wire is then pulled.
Cut the black negative wire at such a distance that it is long enough to lay under the front panel to the location of the button/toggle switch for turning on the backlight. Then we connect the second wire from the button to the body hardware.
After soldering, carefully glue the strip with LEDs in the routing areas, also with the wires, which it is advisable to hide so that no one can see them.

Do-it-yourself trunk lighting will be clearer if you draw a diagram of the wiring, tapes and installation locations of the toggle switches on paper.

Additional trunk lighting Lada Kalina 2

The new Kalina 2 has changed for the better in many ways, the car's interior has become more modern, and the exterior has also become more attractive. However, AvtoVAZ decided not to change some details, for example, the trunk lighting of the new Kalina is dim. Today we will show you how to install additional lighting in the trunk of a car.

The point of the modification is to improve the standard trunk lighting by installing LEDs in it, or replace it with an alternative, brighter one. Thus, the installation will not require the manufacture of new fasteners, because The lighting will be placed in regular places.

Let us recall that in the previous article we looked at soundproofing the hood of the Lada Kalina 2 as a method of eliminating the sounds of engine operation.

If you decide to abandon the standard lamp due to dim light, then you can improve the trunk lighting using an LED strip. You can fix the LED strip on a shelf, on the trunk lid, or on the side shelves using double-sided tape or plastic clamps. Example for Lada Kalina 2 hatchback:

On the Lada Kalina 2 station wagon, the trunk lighting is modified in a similar way. In both cases considered, the trunk lighting is connected to standard connectors. The disadvantage of this connection is that the backlight will only work when the lights are on.

Door switches: where they are located, connection, checking

Initially, limit switches were installed on the doors to automatically turn on the interior lamp. Their connection scheme was the simplest - everything was connected in parallel, that is, it did not matter which door was open. In budget car configurations, only the driver's door switch was often installed.

Video: Problems with limit switches in Lada Vesta, Grant and Kalina

The weak link of such limit switches was the need to place them in an extremely inconvenient place: the protruding part of the metal sheet of the door in the lower corner pressed on them; less often, designers managed to place the limit switch higher. Because of this, they often failed even despite the sealing cap on the outside. For a car with an alarm, this meant randomly triggering the alarm at the wrong time, or, just as bad, being able to open the door without setting off the alarm.

Subsequently, the connection diagrams for limit switches in doors became more complex - initially to indicate a specific open door on primitive on-board computers. Here, each door had its own signal wire, which complicated the installation of alarms: since the limit switches need to be connected to the only input of the central unit, an attempt to connect it with all the limit switches immediately leads to a violation of the display on the on-board computer screen (shows all doors open at the same time). Because of this, it is necessary to use diode isolation, which allows you to logically combine the outputs of the limit switches without disturbing the operation of the computer.

It works simply: since the diode conducts current only in one direction, when any of the limit switches is closed, the alarm output is connected to ground in any case, but the pressed one is connected to the rest of the limit switch wires through a back-to-back pair of diodes that do not pass current.

The solution to the problem with the reliability of limit switches turned out to be quite simple. It has long become the norm that the door end is located in the lock mechanism itself, that is, it is raised high and well protected from water, if, of course, the glass seal is in good working order. Note that the very principle of operation of the door limit switch has changed. If the door limit switch is installed in the slam, then it is triggered at a certain position of the door, closing the contacts when it begins to open.

If the door switch is in the lock, it is triggered by moving the locking mechanism: often (but not necessarily) it is enough to lift the handle without opening the door itself to close the contacts. This, by the way, makes installing alarms more convenient: you can leave the door open during operation by clicking the lock pawl with a screwdriver, and the alarm will no longer “see” the door open.

It is so good, for example, to adjust the shock sensor by arming the car with the door open, and not repeating the cycle “closed - armed - struck - disarmed - opened the door - changed the setting” for each adjustment.

On modern cars, the driver's door switch has received one more function - it is usually responsible for “falling asleep” and “waking up” of the on-board electronics. For this reason, on alarm systems with auto-start, it is necessary to connect a circuit simulating the opening of the driver’s door: the on-board controller at the end of the auto-start cycle will “see” that after turning off the ignition the door opened and closed, and will normally switch the car into a low-power mode.

In this case, a short-term “ground” pulse often appears on the limit switch wire, which, with a conventional diode isolation circuit, triggers an alarm for opening the door some time after arming. To avoid this, the diode decoupling circuit is complicated.

The difference with the previous diagram is that the diodes also cut into the standard wiring, and the alarm is connected between the diode and the limit switch. In this case, when the limit switch is closed, ground comes to both the standard vehicle on-board circuit control unit and the alarm system. But, when the controller creates a “ground” pulse in the standard wiring, the alarm input is blocked by back-to-back diodes, and no alarm is triggered.

It is important to understand that the duration of such pulses is very short, and the alarm can work correctly even when decoupled with one diode per line: for example, Sherkhans are less sensitive than StarLine, according to the author’s experience. But sometimes random activations are possible, and this is often associated with owner problems, when the limit switches are absolutely in good working order, but the car still sometimes “screams on its own”

Tuning the trunk of Kalina

If there is a need to transport large cargo and the standard trunk of the car is no longer enough, then there are two options: buy a trailer or transport the cargo on the roof. Do you know how to install roof rails on a Granta or Kalina sedan?

Everyone knows that the rear parcel shelf of Kalina rises up along with the trunk lid. However, the elastic bands that hold the trunk shelf in place are too long, causing it to rise up a little, forcing us to bend over to put things in the trunk. Do you know how to make access to Kalina’s trunk more convenient?

The trunk of a car deserves special attention, especially when it is of impressive size. Tuning the trunk of Kalina, like any other car brand, consists of a set of modifications, and we’ll talk about them.

Everyone knows how dim the standard lighting in Kalina’s trunk is; finding anything in it at night is simply unrealistic. Another modification to the trunk is dedicated to the lighting.

Trunk

Since access to the lamp is free, replacing it will be even easier than in the glove compartment, simply by spreading the contacts, removing it, and putting the new one back.

Modification of the trunk of the viburnum | Club LADA

The rear shelf of Priora, Kalina and Granta is famous for its crickets, they are especially noticeable on hatchbacks and station wagons. According to statistics, 70% of car owners, after purchasing a domestic car, almost immediately soundproof the rear of the car. Do you know what to do if a shelf creaks?

If desired, all logos on the trunk lid can be removed. There are several ways to remove nameplates from a car; we will consider them separately.

Soundproofing the trunk brings a significant effect when it comes to a hatchback or station wagon body. Let's figure out how to make soundproofing of the trunk lid of Kalina with your own hands.

The Lada Kalina does not have a trunk button, so you have to open it only with the key. The photo report is devoted to how to make the trunk door open using a separate button.

To prevent various rubbish from hanging out in Kalina’s trunk, you can buy a special universal net to contain the load. But if a false floor is installed, then all the things from the trunk will be decoratively hidden.

To repair the lock of the fifth door of a Kalina hatchback or station wagon, or to replace the purifier gearmotor, you will first have to remove the upholstery of the fifth door.

Initially, the owners began to notice water in the trunk of Kalina and Priora hatchback/station wagon, and later the new Granta liftback inherited this problem. We find out the possible reasons for the appearance of water in the trunk and ways to eliminate this problem.

Lada Granta liftback (2019). Guide - part 3

If during a call (while the 3 key is illuminated

SOS" flashes red) initiated

by pressing the 3 " key

SOS", press key 3 again

SOS" and hold for at least 2 seconds, then emergency

the call will be canceled (key 3" backlit

color will be turned off).

The SVEOS is in this mode if no emergency call is made and if the ignition is turned off. In the “Off” mode, there is no backlighting of key 3 “

SOS”, and also the indicator 4 of the system status is not lit.

. In the “Off” mode, SVEOS does not respond to

pressing key 3 "

SOS". SVEOS exit from mode

“Off” is performed when the ignition is turned on.

The testing mode is intended to check the functionality of the SVEOS components. In the testing mode, the functionality of the SVEOS status indicator, the microphone and loudspeaker in the interior lighting unit, the backup battery and other internal components of the SVEOS is checked. If you wish, you can independently check the performance of the SVEOS by running the test mode. To start the test mode, you must: – make sure that the engine is turned off; – turn the key in the ignition switch (ЗЗ) to the “Ignition on” position and wait 1 minute; – turning the ignition off and on three times. After the 3rd switching on of the ignition (switching ZZ No. 6), the SVEOS goes into test mode if the engine did not start during the entry procedure.

In this case, the sound prompt “Testing procedure has started” will be played. During testing, the functionality of the microphone and loudspeaker will be checked. After playing the sound prompt “Say the control phrase”, you will need to say any phrase lasting no more than 5 seconds. Immediately after this, the audio prompt “Playing a control phrase” will be played and then the phrase you spoke will be played. The audio prompt “Enter your verification result” will then play. If testing of the microphone and loudspeaker was successful, then it is necessary to switch the protection zone 2 times according to the algorithm described below within no more than 3 seconds:

Trunk volume of Lada Kalina station wagon

One of the popular modifications to the trunk is to install a second floor in it in the form of a low box (raised floor). This design will allow you to store things (tools, sound amplifier, etc.) that will not dangle or get in the way during use. Let's consider a classic version of this tuning of the trunk of modern Lada cars.

It is more practical and easier to make a rectangular raised floor, the dimensions of which will depend on the car model. You can draw up a drawing or diagram based on the dimensions from the articles on our website (Lada Priora hatchback/station wagon, Granta sedan/liftback, Kalina station wagon, Kalina 2 hatchback and station wagon, or Niva 4x4). Or pull out the trunk mat and take measurements from the insert glued on the back side, and take the height to be 15 cm.

Let's look at a specific example of making a raised floor with your own hands for a Lada Granta liftback. For other Lada models, all actions are performed in the same way:

1. Cut pieces of plywood (5-6 mm) into pieces of the required sizes using a jigsaw or saw.

2. If desired, the plywood can be painted (in this example, white) or coated with drying oil to protect it from moisture.

3. The top cover is tightened with material (for example, carpet), using a furniture stapler or glue.

4. The box is assembled using corners and hinges. The top lid can be made double so that, if desired, only part of the hidden trunk can be opened.

5. We apply design solutions. For example, when placing amplifiers in such a trunk, it will be convenient to have a viewing window made from a piece of monolith. To install it, we cut out a 5 cm groove along the contour from the bottom of the lid. We place the glass in it and glue it, and secure it with metal slats for reliability. Holes for ventilation can be made in the sides of the resulting box.

As a result, all that remains is to install a false floor in the trunk of the Lada and fill it with the necessary contents. The side niches in the trunk are deeper, which allows you to place additional things in them. Such modification of the trunk will require at least three free evenings, but the result is worth it!

Lada XRAY already has a second floor from the factory. There is a separate article on this topic for the Largus trunk. We offer one more instruction that will improve the lighting in the trunk of Lada cars.

Very easy installation, no additional modifications required. The shelf is designed to improve the sound quality of the speaker system as a whole, as well as to eliminate unpleasant creaks, rattles and overtones when the car is moving.

Instead of plastic sidewalls, wooden ones are installed, and speakers are attached to them.

The main advantage of this design is that when the shelf is removed to transport large items, the speakers remain in the car.

Standard characteristics:

Upholstery material:	Carpet
Upholstery color:

We produce standard and individual orders, maintain an effective pricing policy, and offer the best price-quality ratio.

If desired, you can purchase fasteners for RUB 130

The manufacturer reserves the right to change the characteristics of the product, its appearance and completeness without prior notice to the seller.

Holes on the sides:	6x9″
Speaker installation:	Hidden
Net/gross weight:	10.3kg/11.7kg
Dimensions in packaging:	88cm x 34cm x 20cm
Equipment:	Shelf, sides (2 pcs.)

Automobile model	Lada Kalina
Speaker size	13 cm, 16 cm, 20 cm, 6x9″
Modification	Solid
Automobile model	VAZ 1117 Kalina
Basic speaker setup	Hidden

Trunk overview, what is where and where

The basic configuration of the Lada Granta Liftback does not include a remote drive to unlock the doors. In Lux versions, a mechanical button is installed on the key. To unlock the fifth door, just press the button once. Next, lift the lid mechanically by hand. Note that it is not easy, one little finger will not be enough, make an effort. Even when folded, the trunk is spacious and impressive. The perimeter is lined with felt, fleecy material. It serves as both cladding and noise reduction.

Unfortunately, there is no rubber mat on the floor, only fleecy material. If necessary, the owner can independently purchase rubber coating. Lifting the false shelf, in the center we will see a recess for the spare wheel. Moreover, the standard radius of the disks is 14 inches, but you can fit all 16 inches. Convenient and practical, since there is free space. In addition to the full tire, there is a mechanical jack and a wheel wrench. If desired, you can fit a tow rope, which needs to be purchased separately; it is not supplied as standard.

Trunk Kalina hatchback

Just recently I began to notice that the shelf in Kalina’s trunk began to rattle and sag. It was secured with rather weak plastic sides that could barely hold them up. I have the speakers installed on the front door, but I haven't had time to install them in the back yet, so I decided to install side supports under the shelf. Of course, I didn’t plan them myself from valuable wood, but ordered them from a specialized workshop.

They carefully examined my car, took the necessary measurements and got to work. I didn’t bother them with my presence and retreated towards the house. But still, after a couple of hours, curiosity took over and I came back to the auto repair shop to watch the process. However, to my great surprise, all the work had already been completed and all I had to do was pay the bill, which also pleasantly surprised me; in principle, I was expecting a larger amount than the one that was presented to me.

The work itself pleased me with its accuracy and reliability. Now even if you sit on this shelf yourself, it seems like you won’t bend in life. Plus, on top of everything else, there were additional pockets that were not planned by me, but they also made me happy, you could hide some valuables there and no one would have guessed that there was a pocket there. I left the auto repair shop in such a good mood. I've been driving this car for quite some time, and so far the Kalina hatchback has never let me down with shaking in the trunk. And the pockets serve as tools. Naturally, you can’t put particularly bulky tools there, like a jack, but it’ll do just fine for small things.

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Sound insulation of the trunk Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)

is the same for all brands and types of cars, however, specific cases have their own characteristics. In the case of the Lada Kalina 2, the whole process begins with removing the trunk trim and tailgate trim, which does not cause difficulties. Next, the entire surface should be cleaned and degreased with White Spirit.

The first layer of trunk sound insulation is vibration isolation material. It is recommended to start installing sound insulation from the rear arches; it is through them that the main noise from the road is transmitted. To soundproof arches, it is recommended to use a material with the highest vibration absorption coefficient, for example, Bimast Bomb. We cut sheets of a suitable size (the larger the pieces, the better), and heat the bitumen side with a hairdryer. We apply the material to the cleaned metal of the body and roll it out with a hard (plastic/iron) roller. We glue the next sheet of vibration isolator overlapping or at the joint. After this, we move on to soundproofing the horizontal surface of the trunk, paying special attention to the part where the muffler resonator passes (for Lada Kalina 2 this is the left side).

Lada Kalina I generation

The trunk volume on the Lada Kalina hatchback, according to the manufacturer’s manual, has a volume of 240 liters (up to the shelf), and with the rear seats folded down it is 550 liters.

Kalina in a sedan body has almost the same performance, but in this case the owner is limited in volume due to the rear window and shelf.

Station wagon body (the question is about it)

And by far the most spacious trunk in the Lada Kalina family is the station wagon. Even when not unfolded, its volume is about 355 liters, while with the seats folded down you can achieve a figure of 670 liters.

The dimensions of the station wagon body are amazing. So, thanks to the folded seats, an object with a length of almost 1.5 meters and a maximum width of 1.3 - 0.9 meters can easily fit inside the body.

Car alarm connection points for Lada Priora 2011

Ignition switch: + 12V - brown Starter - red IGN - blue/black

Tidy: Tacho signal - brown/red Handbrake - brown/blue (For more details, see Diagram 1)

Connector X3 (See Fig. 1) BCM: Driver's door switch - blue/black Right front door switch - brown Rear door switches - gray/red Trunk switch - yellow/red Opening the trunk (low-current input, possible without a relay, additional channel directly to alarm) - blue/red

Connector X1 (See Figure 1) BCM: Turns - blue, blue/black

Ts.Z. - brown; The wire is located inside the driver's door, in the harness from the button block. (See Diagram 3 for details)

Hood tip - white/black; Connector X2-17 (If an engine temperature sensor is used, then according to scheme 2)

The block is located behind the panel, near the gas pedal. To remove the block, remove the left and right panels, unscrew the two 10mm nuts, left and right, securing the block.

3.1. Connection to central locking

When connecting the central locking (see diagram 3), if you connect only to the brown wire in the driver's door, then all doors will close and only the driver's door will open. To open the remaining doors, you need to use a wire in the alarm for two-step opening of the central locking system, and connect according to the diagram below.

The remaining doors are opened by the second impulse, relay K1. Relays K2 and K3 are also activated; they are needed to block the right power windows. If this is not done, then when you open the remaining doors, the right windows will open slightly for 0.8 seconds, i.e. from the impulse to open the central locking, the second step. It is necessary to block the power windows due to the peculiarities of the electrical circuit of the Priora doors.

If the configuration does not include power windows on the rear doors, then relay K3 does not need to be installed, and accordingly, cell X1-11 in connector X1 is not used. (The color of wire X1-11 is not known.) If the configuration does not include power windows at all, then there is no need to use relay K2.