Transfer of VAZ 2110 power window buttons to the doors

Finally, everything was won, the wiring was stretched and everything was connected! The goal was to lengthen the wires of the power window buttons and connect them to the ESP unit from Kalina, connect the central locking and illuminate the mirror joystick (I don’t have electric mirrors). During the work, I came across a Falcon WR-400 glass closer, it has 4 glasses, but for now they installed two, with a reserve for the future)) And so, everything in order:

Connecting power window buttons.

I hope the author won’t mind, I took this blog entry as a basis, as well as several others.

Pinout for connecting power window buttons.

1) +12V for the driver's window (Window moves down) 2) +12V for the driver's window (Window moves up) 3) Ground 4) +12V for the driver's window 5) Ground 6) +12V for the passenger's window 7) None Dimensions 9) +12V for passenger window (Window moves down) 10) +12V for passenger window (Window moves up)

Accordingly, I extended all the wires and attached small terminals at the end, because... I couldn’t find the connector (oh, that is, I didn’t look...) Also, wires from a Falcon WR-400 were embedded into these wires. I can’t tell you about connecting it, our installer volunteered to help me and did everything himself)) But I think there won’t be any problems there! I know for sure that they pulled one wire from the alarm unit and another wire pulled the positive one, so that without the ignition the unit could raise the windows.

Connecting the central lock button

I also can’t tell you exactly where the two wires came from that are responsible for opening and closing the doors if you apply ground to them. But I assume they come from the central locking unit that was installed at the factory. On my car it is located at the driver’s left foot, a little higher under the dashboard.

Pinout for central locking connection. 1 closing 2 ground 3 missing 4 dimensions 5 backlight ground 6 missing 7 opening

We also connected all this, and also ran the wires for the joystick backlight:

2 dimensions 5 weight dimensions

Well, as I said, I messed around with the hard door trim until I solved the problem and installed it as is. Here's what the bundle turned out to be:

All that remains is to pass the successful testing stage and I am satisfied!)

Installing an additional ESP button in the door of a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and operating the ESP without ignition and relay

The content of the article:

ESP operation without ignition and relay for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

As we all know, the Internet is full of information on how to wind a wire and make the power windows work without the ignition key, but it seems to me complete nonsense. Let's look into this.

The proposed method on the Internet is this: first of all, we must open our mounting block with fuses and find there the relay responsible for the electric windows.

Having verified it experimentally, namely by turning on the ignition and pulling out the relay, we understand whether the window lifts work or not. If this is what we need, take out the relay.

Then we begin to do some manipulations with the relay by winding wire around it.

I don’t know about you, but I have a question: why do we need this?

We have in our hands an ordinary 4-pin relay, where the principle of operation of the relay is clear to us.

On the Internet they simply suggest that we short-circuit the water contact of the power supply-30 and the output contact of the ESP-87. This will lead to a contact that bypasses the coil (relay), which will only work if it receives power (plus) from the ignition switch (contacts in Relay-85,86-Coil).

So isn’t it easier for us, without making a collective farm, to simply make a jumper to provide power directly?

Make it from a thick wire with a cross-section of 2.5-4 squares so that our jumper does not get hot.

And connect it directly to the block. On the input voltage connector, contact is 30 and output voltage is 87.

Then to turn on the ESP you will not need to turn the ignition key. Since Power (plus) will come to the ESP, bypassing the relay, which will only work when power (plus) is supplied from the ignition switch.

Then there will be no need to farm collectively.

Installation of an additional ESP button in the door of a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

I bring to your attention a step-by-step description of the process of installing an additional power window control button (ESP) in the door. The process is not very complicated and time-consuming; everything will take about two hours.

In order to install an additional power window key on the VAZ 2110 door, we will need:

1. 9 meters of wire (I used wires of the following colors: black, yellow, white, 3 meters each) 0.75 mm (section) 2. Button for controlling the ESP (VAZ 2110)* 3. Block for the ESP button 4. Terminals "mother" large - 2 ** 5. Terminals "male" large - 2 ** 6. Terminals "mom" small - 7 ** 7. Terminal "ground" 8mm - 1 8. Blocks for terminals "mother - father" large — 1 (of each type) 9. Plastic clamps (small) — 8 10. Pistons for sprinkling the door trim — 7***

* - in principle, instead of a ten-point rocker button, you can install HIGH-CURRENT (power) buttons from Kalina or Priora, but check with the seller that they are high-current, trigger ones will not work. ** — I didn’t buy these terminals, they came with the pads. *** - they are soft for me, so they didn’t break => I didn’t buy them.

Wiring diagram for the ESP button in the door.

Now we determine the contact numbers on the button and block, according to the diagram:

Okay, we figured it out. The next thing is to find the ESP relay. Typically, the relay is located on top of the mounting block cover. If you have more than one relay installed, then remove them one by one and check if the ESPs are working. The relay, after removing which the ESP stopped working, is the ESP relay.

We remove it from the socket and remove the negative terminal from the battery. Then we disconnect the relay itself from the housing. To do this, use a flat-head screwdriver to slightly press the holder latch and press on its body. The relay holder will disengage. The picture shows the latch:

We are interested in the white wire with a black stripe (this is “+ 12 V” after ignition. If you want the ESP to work regardless of the position of the ignition key, then bridge contacts 30 and 87 of the ESP relay - white with a black stripe and blue with a black stripe) :

We connect our “+12 V” wire to it (according to the diagram, it is connected to pin 2 of the block, I used a yellow wire) Now we need “ground”. You can take it from the door, but the contact there is very unstable, so I took the mass from the bolt behind the mounting block. To see this bolt, open the mounting block and look up and slightly to the right).

Crimp the wire that goes to ground at the ground end and attach it to the bolt. (I used black wire for these purposes)

The next step is to connect the plus from the backlight. I ran into the white wire of the ashtray illumination (I also used a purchased white wire for connection), it is located behind the shield on the left, at the feet of the front passenger.

Do not pay attention to the orange wire (+ to the radio backlight).

Now, we have connected all three wires that we will run into the door to the sources, then we will need to run them through the corrugation inside the door. Remove the center pillar trim (unscrew one screw in the middle and two at the bottom). Also loosen the fastening of the driver's seat belt on the floor (bolt 17).

To make it easier to route the wires through the corrugation, disconnect it from the door.

Unscrew and remove the door handle (two bolts for a Phillips screwdriver). Then we remove the door trim (card), it is best to do this starting from the bottom. Don't forget to unscrew the nail. We find the blocks (male and female) for the ESP engine and disconnect them.

Now the fun begins. We crimp the three wires we have drawn with little mothers and insert them into the block according to the diagram given above. Accordingly, “+12 V” - (yellow) contact 2

, plus backlight (white wire) -
4
, and ground - black - by
5
.
There are 4 contacts left: 1,3,6,7. We connect the original wire (green with a black stripe) that went to the ESP engine block to 6
, and the orange wire to
3
.

Now the block that will be connected to the ESP engine block: blue wire - 7

, brown -
1
contact.

Here, in fact, is the photo (all numbers and designations are in accordance with the diagram above):

Location of wires in the block:

I tidied this mess up a bit:

We connect the button, connect the ESP relay and the minus to the battery. Let's check... if everything works, put all the parts in the reverse order of disassembly. If the glass works normally with the native ESP buttons, but with the connected ones it goes in the opposite direction, swap 3-6, and 7-1 (was 3 - became 6, was 6 - became 3, etc.) contacts in pads that connect to the original wiring in the door. But first, check that the connection according to the diagram is correct.

Technical characteristics of the AMP HD DVR-600 video recorder, installation and correct connection of the video recorder in VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 via a toggle switch

Contents of the article: 1. Technical characteristics of the AMP HD DVR-600 video recorder for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 2. Installation of video

Alexmtx › Blog › Correct connection diagrams for electric windows (ESP) and glass closers

When you need to install ESP (electric windows) yourself, then, as always, on the Internet it is difficult to find correct and understandable diagrams for everyone. Having experience in radio electronics, I am laying out for everyone the correct and understandable diagrams for connecting an ESP, an intelligent glass closer Pandora DWM-210 (but it is better to install a Sheriff PWM-200), as well as simple closers only for raising the glass, installed in the wire gap on the positive side of the motor.

We take ESP power keys (not trigger (multiplex) from Itelm): a block from Granta, and a new model button from Kalina (it is the power key), since they are the cutest in appearance.
These are, of course, not dual-mode imported buttons, but they will work just as well with an intelligent door closer. We also install the Sheriff PWM-200 type door closer itself. We use thick power wires (shown in bold in the diagrams) >= 1 mm2, while control wires can be used thin = 0.5 mm2.
Power buttons are easy to identify by their contacts - they have thick and flat blades, while trigger buttons have thin pins like needles! Exception! If the buttons are not on the door, but on the center console and thick wires >= 1.5 mm2 are stretched from them to each door, then you can do without a relay, since there is no duplicate button here, and each one has its own door and the drawdowns are minimal. Then you don't have to read further.

Plus +12V must be taken from the fuse block, and not from the ignition, otherwise the automatic window closer will not work when arming. It is better to take the weight from the bolt behind the mounting block, and not in the door, since the contact in the door may not be very good. Although the door contact is also good if the car is not old. Take tinned terminals.

Connection diagram for power window lifter button "AVAR"

Diagrams for connecting the backup button on the driver's door to the main button on the passenger door

When installing two buttons on one window regulator, they are usually installed in series (or in parallel, but then they must be decoupled via a relay).

The main button is the button that controls the power window of the door on which it is installed. The duplicate button is the driver's button, which additionally controls another window regulator from the driver's seat.

Daisy chain connection (for trigger buttons)

We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door. We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Installation in parallel will result in short-circuiting during lifting and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.

Parallel connection (only for power buttons)

Since with a serial connection you still can’t do without a relay, it is better to make a button duplication circuit in parallel, decoupling the main button from the backup button through two 5-pin relays: the wires from the main button next to the driver’s ESP motor go directly to the 88th contact of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger’s ESP engine.
A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button (the wires here are short), and we thereby eliminate unnecessary clicking of the relay when the main button on the passenger door operates. For non-power (trigger) buttons, in this case, you will definitely have to use 2 more extra relays to relieve the load on the passenger button (therefore, a serial connection is always used for trigger buttons). Further, everywhere in my circuits a parallel connection is used, since all the buttons are power
.

Connection diagram for multiplex (low-current) ESP button

ESP connection diagram when the multiplex button closes the contacts to ground

Dimensions of the installation location for the ESP “AVAR” buttons

Glass closer Pandora DWM-210

What it gives: - full glass travel in one short press (“one touch”) - BUT DOES NOT WORK ON 2 GLASSES AT THE SAME TIME (since the module has only one sensor for electromagnetic noise of the motor, current and time); — stopping the glass in any position by pressing again in any direction; — automatic stop of the glass when it encounters an obstacle in the window opening; — automatic shutdown of ESP motors when current is exceeded; — automatic closing of windows when arming the car; — automatic opening of the windows when disarming to the previous position before arming, if the parking lasted no more than 20 minutes. (The rev counter works rather conditionally and may leave the windows closed or not closed enough). The closer is installed in the driver's door.
ATTENTION! When you hold the button, the closer does not use its relays
, which take the plus (through a 20A fuse) and minus from the closer, but sends all the current directly from the button to the motor, so you need to install a relay after leaving the button with long wires!
Apparently this was done so that if the door closer fails, you can always close the window by simply holding the button. When you briefly press
the button, the door closer with its relays is activated and closes the glass.
Place the relay only at the input to the closer from the output after the duplicate button!
If this is not done, then due to subsidence along the long wires of the sequential connection of the buttons, the passenger window will barely move.
The output of the closer must be connected directly to the motor without a relay, otherwise the detection of electromagnetic noise from the motor will not work and the closer will not work!
At the output of the driver's power button, relays are not needed, since all the power wires there are short.
It is ideal to install 2 door closers on each door, as is standard on foreign cars - then the AUTO mode will be on 2 doors at once in parallel, and not alternately. In addition, you will not need to pull 2 extra thick wires to the motor from the driver's door to the passenger's door. If I had known right away that the Pandora DWM-210 is such a Ketai crap without its own relays in the power part of the closer, I would have purchased and installed a Sheriff PWM-200
, in which the power part is clearly separated from the control part and, moreover, you can close two windows at the same time in one touch! So it's definitely better!

This is interesting: What to do if the “CHECK” lights up?

The power windows are turned on by the module sequentially after a trigger pulse is given: first the driver's door, then the passenger door, and the next channel is turned on after the previous one has been completed. If the glass is already closed, the module will immediately switch to the next channel. Closing control is carried out by electromagnetic noise from the motor.

When the power is turned on, the closer module needs to be calibrated based on the protection current. You need to press SHORTLY to lower each glass all the way, then raise it in the same way. At the same time, the closer remembers the characteristics of the engine. The control signal for closing and opening is NEGATIVE ONLY. Control can be done from the central locking or from an additional alarm channel. It is necessary to connect the control output of the security system to the “White/Red” (windows up) and “White” (windows down) terminals of the module, respectively. The duration of the trigger pulse must be at least 500ms. (0.5 sec.). Attention: in older releases the wires of the buttons and motors were swapped - for such blocks we swap the wires under the numbers: 9 2, 16 20, 15 10, 14 19, 13 18. On the latest Pandora (November 2011 and newer) the diagram is correct, so that there is no need to swap wires from buttons and motors!

Closer in wire break for lifting ESP

Addition dated 10/05/2014 at the request of SIBUR95. There are closers that are connected to the break in the lifting wire that goes to the ESP motor. There are 2 wires coming from the closer and they are constantly closed in it. When you turn on the closer, they break and + appears on one, and nothing on the second. On GREEN, when the door closer is operating (arming), a plus appears and it goes to the engine, and a minus goes from the button (or from the relay from contact 88 to 30) to the engine. When the closer does not work, it simply passes current from BLUE to GREEN by closing its relay and that’s it.

Here the circuit differs only in that the minus of the motor is connected directly to the button (or to the relay, if the button is duplicated), and the plus also passes through the closer, and the relay is located at only one input to the closer, thereby not interfering with the detection of engine noise.

You can also make a button duplication circuit not in series, but in parallel on two 5-pin relays. The advantage is that a series circuit is eliminated; the relay will not click again from the main button, which is closer to the engine (with short wires), but only from the backup one. The downside is that for non-power (trigger) buttons in this case you will have to use 2 extra relays (relays 3 and 4 in the diagram).

Scheme for any number of duplicate buttons and number of doors

You can put as many buttons in parallel as you like and simultaneously press them in different directions - a short circuit is impossible from the circuit design! In a situation where we press the up button on the main button, and the down button on the backup button, it will simply stop, since both power lines will have the same potential.

The only difference between the closer is the presence of an MK between the buttons and power relays. The advantage of the circuit is that the power switching is in one place, there are no losses in the harnesses and on the buttons, there is a minimum of “pulling” of wires - 2 in total per channel + ground. In good quality, full-featured closers, the power part and control lines are implemented in the same way + the functions of “auto-detection” of active control levels are also added.

If a door closer of the PWM-200 on Sheriff type with low-current control is installed, then there is no point in these relays, since they are already mounted in the door closer. This circuit with a relay is for understanding the essence of reverse control and duplicating buttons in parallel. Power outputs both in the central locking system and in the door closers are implemented in exactly this way.

It is also advisable to connect non-polar electrolytic capacitors of 22 uF 25V to the contacts of the ESP motors in order to smooth out the range of current ripples in the power channel of the closer so that it works correctly even when the motors are worn out and does not suddenly stop the glass when opening and closing.

The usual scheme of duplicate buttons for 4 doors

Duplicate buttons must also be supplemented with two 5-pin relays (they are not shown in the diagram).

The device of the VAZ window regulator of the tenth model

The design of the window lifters on the VAZ 2110 will be different depending on whether the device is for the front or rear doors.

But despite this, each of them has certain details in its structure:

Grooves that are located on the inner plane of the door frame. These components are designed to hold the glass directly in one position or another.
The so-called rails. These components are mounted in the door body. They are used as guide components for moving glass.
Directly sealing element made of soft rubber, which allows you to limit the movement of glass in the up and down directions.
Lifting device.
Window lift drive.

Installation process of electric windows

In addition, it is necessary to install the power windows themselves. The procedure is performed in the following sequence:

temporarily remove the glass seal located on the inside of the door;
remove the glass, and then dismantle the window regulator fastening mechanism;
we install devices that will operate from an electric drive;
connect the negative terminal to the battery and check the operation of the new window regulator;
We install the glass in place and trim the door.

Repair

It is not possible to repair window regulators in all cases. Mostly, these glass lifting devices can be repaired in case of obvious mechanical fractures of the elements.

But we can still give some useful tips regarding restoring the functionality of the window regulator without replacing it.

If the electric window motor fails to work, then the brushes or winding are most likely to blame. To verify this and fix the damage, you need to remove the motor, disassemble it and clean the outer and inner surfaces.
For cleaning, it is recommended to use a lint-free cloth. The cloth is soaked in gasoline, alcohol or a special cleaning agent. When you buy the latter, you can use it for a long time, the efficiency is higher compared to gasoline.
After cleaning and drying the parts, it is recommended to treat the moving elements with lubricant so that the mechanisms function longer.
If the cable comes off the lifting mechanism, you will have to dismantle it, remove the electric motor, or unwind the cable if it is mechanical. Then the cable is pulled back onto the grooves and the assembly is reassembled.
If a malfunction occurs in the mechanism or the electrical circuit of the device, it is necessary to study this circuit, determine the direction of the wires, and then ring them. This is the most effective way to check for electrical failure.

Lifting device diagram
Repair in most cases gives only a temporary result, so soon you will still have to make a full replacement. This is due to the fact that each part has its own service life and degree of wear. When they are reached, the window regulator stops working.

Replacing or repairing mechanical or electrical window regulators cannot be called complex undertakings. It is quite possible to cope with such tasks with your own hands.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, installing and connecting power windows, as well as power window buttons, is not the easiest procedure to install, but it is quite possible to do all the work yourself in an ordinary garage.

The main thing is to choose the right window regulator (and, if necessary, a window closer), and the diagram of the window regulators should be studied in advance in order to avoid errors when connecting.

We also recommend reading the article on how to connect a subwoofer in a car. From this article you will learn about the available ways to connect a subwoofer to a radio, as well as what subtleties and nuances you should pay attention to.

Finally, we note that there are a large number of different window lift mechanisms, blocks, buttons, etc. on the market. In practice, it is recommended to buy complete and ready-made kits from trusted manufacturers rather than assemble a window regulator from individual elements.

Of course, high-quality components are also sold separately. However, this option is more suitable for repairing window regulators. If you assemble the entire kit, it may turn out to be significantly more expensive than purchasing a ready-made solution right away.